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> Short shifter knobs, Go heavy or light?
dcdye
post Feb 4 2005, 02:08 PM
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Anyone have ideas on a good, but not expensive, knob to go with a new short shifter? I have read conflicting reports about the benefits of a heavy knob vs. a lighter (stock) one. All input welcome.


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'05 5dr Tidal Wave 5spd GT, TWM short shifter, painted engine components (Red), FIAMM horn, K&N air filter with resonator box removed, mud flaps, 19.2mm rear sway bar, Roadmax Metal White HB/Silverstar LB/100W FL, Euro-style antenna, Tiburon pedal set with '03 gas pedal (M/T and footrest), max legal VA tint, debadged (except "GT"), key-ring LED color matched, 5 light brake lights, Fumuto oil drain valve, Mobil 1, clear turn signals, FatMat under rear seats and hatchback, Bosch cabin air filter, RRM front strut bar, TB coolant bypass, Korean spec "no side light" front bumper moldings, ZEX wet nitrous kit, dual input air box, 9mm plug wires. Chesapeake, VA.
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bikerPA
post Feb 4 2005, 02:29 PM
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Personally, I prefer the heaviest knob I can screw on (pun not at all intended, believe it or not). Seems like it helps the shifter *snick* into place a bit better. Also, since you're in an area that sees both cold and hot weather, I would recommend against a metal knob; it'll be too hot in the summer and too cold in the winter. All said and done, the stock GT leather shift knob does the trick just fine for me, and the fact that it perfectly matches the interior seals it. If you have a GLS (I'm sorry I can't remember), the leather knob is available from http://www.dreamka4u.com shipped from Korea cheaper than it is available domestically.


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silet
post Feb 4 2005, 02:32 PM
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Most of the shifters will accept the stock knob. As for inexpensive ones I would not recommend them unless they are threaded. Now I'm cheap, so by my standards (which may be low at times) $20 or less is inexpensive and most of them are universal. They kinda suck, because they need tightening and eventually fall apart.

I don't know of any knob, at any $ range with threads, except for the B&M shifter which is included.


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gonzo777
post Feb 4 2005, 02:38 PM
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I recently installed a TWM short shifter and I read all their info on why to go to a heavy knob, but....

I was surprised at how heavy my stock (GT leather) knob was when I removed it.

FYI:
I just weighed my stock knob - 7.5oz, which is about 213grams .... and TWM says theirs is 500grams.


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dcdye
post Feb 5 2005, 10:07 AM
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When I ordered the TWM shofter, I opted not to get the $80 knob they make. I think I will try the stock knob once I get the new shifter in, and if it doesn't feel right, I'll try a heavier one. No need to rush on this, right? Thanks for the advice.


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'05 5dr Tidal Wave 5spd GT, TWM short shifter, painted engine components (Red), FIAMM horn, K&N air filter with resonator box removed, mud flaps, 19.2mm rear sway bar, Roadmax Metal White HB/Silverstar LB/100W FL, Euro-style antenna, Tiburon pedal set with '03 gas pedal (M/T and footrest), max legal VA tint, debadged (except "GT"), key-ring LED color matched, 5 light brake lights, Fumuto oil drain valve, Mobil 1, clear turn signals, FatMat under rear seats and hatchback, Bosch cabin air filter, RRM front strut bar, TB coolant bypass, Korean spec "no side light" front bumper moldings, ZEX wet nitrous kit, dual input air box, 9mm plug wires. Chesapeake, VA.
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ilanpro
post Feb 5 2005, 10:47 AM
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this adjustable one will work great

http://www.evofusionusa.com/TeamSR/Hyundai...ortshifter.html


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Elantrick
post Feb 5 2005, 11:09 AM
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Here is another Idea. Weight the existing knob.

I have the Shark Adjustable short shifter. I was thinking of ways to not screw the knob so far down. I acctualy raised the shift frame (see the DIY section on the adjustable shifter and shift frame lift) to keep the shift knob from dropping too far.

Now you have given me an idea.
I wonder how much lead I can stuff into the hole to weight the knob and raise it up an inch? The lead should be soft enough to allow me to tighten the knob enough to align the shift pattern on the top.


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Elantrick's 2004 Tidal Wave Blue GT

Sporting black with red stripe 17X7.5" Drag wheels, Nitto Neo-Gen 215/40/17 tires, 19.2 rear Sway Bar, Shark Adjustable Short Shifter with lifted frame, 100 watt head lamps,
with hid fog lamps wired independent of the Low beams, cold air intake, Edelbrock springs lowered 1.25" with KYB shocks and Tinted Windows.
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stauf
post Feb 6 2005, 02:03 AM
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I wouldn't suggest using lead. I'd find something less toxic... I dunno the weight of modeling clay, but that could be looked into..


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elantragt
post Feb 6 2005, 03:31 AM
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I'm a real fan of the Razo line of shift knobs from Japan. They are not cheap $35 and up but have one very cool feature... they come with special inserts made of plastic which are in several sizes... pick the one for the Elantra and screw it inside the knob. Then screw the knob on the shifter and it creates theads in the plastic. I can honestly say my current Razo shift knob is on much tighter than the stock one (I also added another Razo knob I have to the best modded contest).

The knob I am using now is the Razo RA-68 and it weighs in at a hefty 400 grams!

If you think the stock one feels solid & heavy, this one is amazing. And biker is right, the heavier knob definitely gives your shifts a feeling of "authority".
driving.gif
(now there's a perfect use of an emoticon! rofl.gif )


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stauf
post Feb 6 2005, 04:20 AM
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Nice! But after lookin on that website, I kinda like the RA-66 better.. wink.gif


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"Dusting is a good example of the futility of trying to put things right. As soon as you dust, the fact of your next dusting has already been established."

"I'm completely in favor of the separation of Church and State. My idea is that these two institutions screw us up enough on their own, so both of them together is certain death."

"Weather forecast for tonight: dark."
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dcdye
post Feb 6 2005, 02:32 PM
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Thanks, I'll check out the Razo line.


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'05 5dr Tidal Wave 5spd GT, TWM short shifter, painted engine components (Red), FIAMM horn, K&N air filter with resonator box removed, mud flaps, 19.2mm rear sway bar, Roadmax Metal White HB/Silverstar LB/100W FL, Euro-style antenna, Tiburon pedal set with '03 gas pedal (M/T and footrest), max legal VA tint, debadged (except "GT"), key-ring LED color matched, 5 light brake lights, Fumuto oil drain valve, Mobil 1, clear turn signals, FatMat under rear seats and hatchback, Bosch cabin air filter, RRM front strut bar, TB coolant bypass, Korean spec "no side light" front bumper moldings, ZEX wet nitrous kit, dual input air box, 9mm plug wires. Chesapeake, VA.
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Elantrick
post Feb 6 2005, 04:02 PM
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QUOTE (stauf @ Feb 6 2005, 12:03 AM)
I wouldn't suggest using lead.  I'd find something less toxic...  I dunno the weight of modeling clay, but that could be looked into..
*


You can buy lead weights all over the place. Wheel weights, Fishing leights. etc. If it were that dangerous I would expect to see more federal control of it. I know that long term exposure is bad, but such short term as this I wouldn't expect would cause any harm.

But I'll use gloves.


--------------------


Elantrick's 2004 Tidal Wave Blue GT

Sporting black with red stripe 17X7.5" Drag wheels, Nitto Neo-Gen 215/40/17 tires, 19.2 rear Sway Bar, Shark Adjustable Short Shifter with lifted frame, 100 watt head lamps,
with hid fog lamps wired independent of the Low beams, cold air intake, Edelbrock springs lowered 1.25" with KYB shocks and Tinted Windows.
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