I noticed I was up to 300 miles on a tank of gas, and still had over a quarter tank. So I started really taking it easy to see if I could get a 400 mile tank. Today the low fuel light came on just shy of 370 miles and I lost my nerve and filled up. It only took 12.6 gallons and on calculating I found I got 29.7 mpg! So even though I lost my nerve, I could have easily made 400 miles on the 14.5 gallon tank.
I've gotten 400 on a tank once or twice before, but only on long trips. In my normal commute I generally fill up around 300-320 because it's getting low and I don't generally push it to empty. I've averaged 26.5 mpg since buying the car, and usually that's what I get on my commute more or less.
But if I start getting 30 mpg on a regular basis, I'm not gonna complain!
I just washed mine today. Next time I wash it I'll also polish it with some Nu Finish. I found a stain in my passenger side seat and I got that cleaned out without a problem with the Turtle Wax Oxy Interior1, that's some good stuff. I also inflated my tires today.
This thread will be about keeping up with what everyone has down with their Elantra. If you did anything to your car, from simple maintenance to modifications, feel free to post it up here, feel free to include pictures as well. I know I will be posting pics after polishing my car.
EDIT:Okay, so everyone doesn't have an Elantra. We are all a part of this community so if you want to talk about what you did to your car today(Even if it isn't an Elantra.)that's fine with me.
Hypermiling is defined by the New Oxford American Dictionary as the attempt to maximize gas mileage by making fuel-conserving adjustments to one's vehicle and one's driving techniques.
So how many elantra owners are driving to get the best gas mileage? Well i have started doing this in my car. I what to see who here can get the best mpg, and share tips with other owners. Here is where im at on this tank. I have a 12 gallon tank in the j2. 124miles on a 1/4 tank of gas. My car was rated for 33hwy, so if i can get to 35-40 that would be better than that epa rating.
Have you had your car at least 6 months? Please let us know how it's doing. What problems if any have you had? What areas would you say are the high and low points of the Elantra?
I guess it's happened to all of us...from parking lot dings to hail damage to (hopefully not) major accidents. Describe some of the ways your Elantra has gotten "banged up"
My only mishap so far was a serious bumper scrape that took off both paint & primer.... What about your Elantra?
I did this many years ago at the old "main site" and the results were very positive. This is a multiple choice poll . Base your answers on real world expectations. Afterall, this is an inexpensive vehicle so be realistic.
How it works...
There are 3 choices (satisfied, disappointed, very disappointed) in each of 5 categories... mechanical issues, paint & finish, performance, mileage and overall satisfaction. So this mean you need to choose one answer in all 5 categories to make this survey accurate.
I'm happy to say that this summer my car will finally be paid off. I'm at like payment 56 of 60. Just curious what everybody's monthly payments are on their car...
Gas prices are on the rise. Here are some tips to help you conserve gas.
1. Keep your car tuned up. Cars in poor running condition use more gasoline.
2. Plan trips well to avoid unnecessary driving.
3. When you run your air conditioner you get much worse gas mileage. Use your air conditioner sparingly. If you have a lower setting, use it. Turn it on until the car gets cool, then turn it off and let the fan circulate the cool air. Never run your air conditioner with your windows open!
4. Keep your windows closed when traveling at high speeds. Open windows cause additional drag and lower your gas mileage. At high speeds, an open window can use more gas than many air conditioners (especially if they are on a low setting).
5. Check your tire pressure. Over-inflated tires can actually reduce your fuel efficiency, so don't overfill.
6. If at all possible, change your work start time to avoid gridlock. Stop and go traffic hurts your gas mileage.
7. Take unneeded items out of the car. You don't need to carry snow chains around with you in the summertime. Just make sure to put them back in when winter comes around.
8. Try not to idle your engine for long periods of time. If you are stuck in traffic and you don't think you are going to go anywhere in the next five minutes, you may want to turn your car off.
9. You no longer need to warm your car up for long periods of time, especially new cars. New cars are made to run when cold.
10. Don't travel at fast speeds in low gears unless you need the compression to slow down.
11. Try to drive the speed limit.
12. Try to accelerate slowly when leaving the stop light. It's not a competition with the driver in the lane next to you. The fastest person through the intersection just gets to spend more on gas.
13. No need to buy the highest priced gasoline. Most cars are built to run on regular unleaded. Check you owners manual or consult a mechanic. I have had many tell me that the more expensive gas is a waste of money.
14. Revving the engine needlessly wastes gas. There is no need to rev before you turn your vehicle off.
15. If at all possible, try to arrange car pools with co-workers to share the cost of commuting to work.
16. Walk, bike or run to your intended location whenever possible.
17. When the price is sky high, don't fill up. Wait for the price to go down before you fill up your tank. Filling up your tank when the price is peaking lets gas companies know that you are willing to pay ridiculous prices for gasoline.
18. Buy gasoline during coolest time of day - early morning or late evening is best. During these times gasoline is densest. Keep in mind - gas pumps measure volumes of gasoline, not densities of fuel concentration. You are charged according to "volume of measurement".
19. Choose type and brand of gasoline carefully. Certain brands provide you with greater economy because of better quality. Use the brands which "seem" most beneficial.
20. Drive steadily. Slowing down or speeding up wastes fuel. Also avoid tailgating - the driver in front of you is unpredictable. Not only is it unsafe, but if affects your economy, if he slows down unexpectedly.
21. Think ahead when approaching hills. If you accelerate, do it before you reach the hill, not while you're on it.
22. And last, the biggest and most important step towards saving money on gas is always try to purchase vehicles that get good gas mileage. The difference between 20 miles-per-gallon and 40 miles-per-gallon is huge.
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Feel free to add any helpful tips or information you can to this thread.
dunno where this should go - but please move as you see fit.
The following was a list I got from the dealer. AVAILABLE All weather mats - front 00281-87000 All weather mats - rear 00281-87001 Car Cover U8260-24000 Cargo Mat - Trunk 08145-2H000 Cargo Net U8170-24000 Cargo Tray U8120-2H000 Carpet Floor Mats - Beige 08140-2H010-4W Carpet Floor Mats - Black 08140-2H010-9P Carpet Floor Mats - Gray 08140-2H010-8M Engine Block Heater 00208-16100 First Aid Kit U8820-00100 Front End Mask U8250-2H000 Hood Deflector U8240-2H000 Kenwood Radio Install - Complete Kit U8500-2H000 Mudguards - Front 08460-2H100 Mudguards - Back 08460-2H500 Pedal Covers - Automatic 08850-2H011 Pedal Covers - Manual 08850-2H001 Radio center facia panel 84740-2H100-9K/9P/9Y Radio OEM 00201-87000-9K Rear Spoiler 08340-2H000-XX Roadside Assistance Kit U8810-00100 Sunroof Deflector U8230-2H000 Vent Visor U8220-2H000 Wheel Locks U8440-00100
UNDER DEVELOPMENT AC Kit Air Intake System Roof Racks Sport Shifter
EDIT: re-alphabetized last few for easier searching
I bought this little car brand new in NJ with only 7 miles on the odometer. [attachment=5719:1.JPG]
We moved to Virginia & she served my wife & me well for 10 years with zero problems. she had a few upgrades like custom fog lights & Sonata mags. The only issue I ever had was the headlights fogged over. [attachment=5720:2.jpg]
I replace the headlights rather inexpensively from EBay. She had over 100K trouble free miles when my kid started driving her too. [attachment=5721:3.jpg]
After the kid graduated we moved to Tennessee. 4 months later IT HAPPENED! My son got into a 45 MPH head on with, ironically enough, a 2013 Elantra. Both cars were totaled, both kids walked away with scratches. [attachment=5722:4.jpg]
I spent the last few months dissecting my little 2003 for parts. My son bought himself a 2002 GT and now has an entire carload of spare parts. I picked her clean. She did her job & saved my son's life. Bottom line: BEST $13,000.00 I EVER SPENT, & best car I have ever bought. She was towed away yesterday. RIP! [attachment=5723:5.jpg]
So here is my predicament...I have a 2012 Elantra GLS with the standard head unit(no nav or big screen) My question is...is it possible to install a backup camera and hook it to the head unit and get the small screen to show the content of the camera like I've seen in some other cars with the small screen and the backup camera. Thanks if anyone knows.
I have a 2005 hatchback... How do I know if it's a GT or a GTS? What are some differences I would note. Not even my insurance agent was able to figure it out. BTW, I think the hatchback design may be good for trunk storage space, but I still haven't figured out the backing up and parking trips... Can't really see where I am spatially in relation to other objects behind. I tend to err on the side of caution. I will occasionally curse the hatchback designer.
I am a proud owner of a 2000 Elantra (J2) that has become my daily driver. I have approximately 120k miles and am looking to keep this car for a long time.
Anyway at this point I'm looking to repair some damage that's been with the car for awhile - I've replaced a fender and am replacing the bumper cover as well. I figured since I have access to the fog lights, why not install those too?
At this point it looks like a dumb decision but I took the plunge and bought the brackets and lights.
Now comes the tricky part - how the hell do I wire the fog lights in? If possible, I'd like to keep it stock.
If anyone could offer any advice on how they wired their lights in or point me in the right direction I'd be really grateful.
I’m posting this thread here because it covers a multitude of topics.
I need advice on what I should do to improve the performance output from my 2000 Elantra’s 2.0.
I would like to make it faster while not compromising the interior or ride comfort. Everyone I’ve spoken with in the import tuner world looks at me like I’m speaking Latin when I mention the 2.0 from the 2000 Elantra. I’m not trying to build a track car but I would like some increased HP and torque.
To give an idea of where I am now, I’ve put together a little history on my Elantra. Basically I want to show what has been done to the car already and what is in the process of being completed. Some of this content was posted years ago in a section of the forum that has been subsequently archived.
The story of my 2000 Elantra
History
I purchased my 2000 Elantra new on May 18, 2000 from Tuttle Click Hyundai in Irvine California. It had 4 miles on the odometer. It’s Sandalwood metallic pearl with every available option for that year. I needed a reliable commuter and the warranty sold me. The looks aren't bad either
(4/2004)
Over the ensuing 14 years, this car has been commuting and road tripping for over 250,000 miles all across the western US.
Bodega Head Whale Watching
June Lake, Eastern Sierra Mtns
Calistoga, Napa Valley snow flurry
First series of modifications.
Around January 2012, at 220,000 miles, the transmission died. Additionally, with that many miles, the Elantra had definitely seen better days. I decided that if I was going to replace the transmission, I’d do a full refresh to the interior and exterior of the car as well.
Interior
Stripped out interior and completely covered interior surfaces with Dynomat Extreme . This took well over 15 work hours and countless cuts and bruises. Always wear gloves
Steam cleaned the carpet while it was out
Replaced factory speakers with Pioneer TS-A6964R A-Series 6"x9" 3-Way (rear) and Pioneer TS-A1304C A-Series 5 1/4" Components (front). I’ll take more photos next time I have the door panels off. The Pioneer tweeters fit perfectly into the stock tweeter location.
Replaced previous head unit with a Pioneer AVIC-X920BT double din navigation unit.
Installed Kansas City Custom’s Leather Interior Package (replaces cloth seats and door inserts with leather) If anyone wants to buy the original cloth covers I have them in pretty good condition. E-mail me. Also replaced the worn window buttons and interior door handles with new ones.
Recarpeted the rear package tray. The old carpet had faded to a pale green
Put in new factory floor mats and installed Elantra scuff plates
I also put in a new center console and console storage bin
Removed old tint and replaced with new 3M 50%
Exterior
Replaced worn headlight enclosures with new ones and installed factory Hyundai Avante fog lights in the factory locations. The American Elantra does not come with mounts behind the fog light covers so custom mounts were made. Lastly I installed matching PIAA 4100k bulbs in the headlights and the fog lights.
Replaced rusty windshield wiper arms with new ones
Installed Avante valve stem covers
Mechanical
Installed new struts, new engine mounts, had the transmission rebuilt at 220,000 miles.
As the Elantra looked in June 2012
In June of 2013 I purchased remanufactured 2009 Kia Spectra Sport package wheels. They're 16x6 with an offset of 43. One of the benefits of using a Kia product is that Hyundai used the same mold to make the Kia Spectra center caps as they did to make the Elantra caps. So, I bought a set of Elantra caps and they popped right into place.
taken Nov 16th on a road trip to Mt. Shasta to do some snow hiking.
That’s where everything stood until November 20, 2013.
On Nov 20 of last year (2013) I loaned the Elantra to a friend to run to the local CVS and back. Unfortunately it didn’t make it back in one piece.
So again it was decision time and I still could not bring myself to scrap it. The title is still clean and this could be the perfect opportunity to really finish it off and make the final modifications that I’ve always wanted to.
My friends and my brother in law were right there to help me out. First, we took out the motor and transmission, the radiator and core support, the front bumper, and remove the damaged hood.
The bulk of the hit was to the front drivers side apron and frame.
I grabbed a pristine OEM hood from a local Pick-N-Pull which for the time being will keep the non-damaged sensors and parts dry. Eventually I would like to go for a carbon fiber hood but this will do for the moment.
The Plan!!
SO, first things first, the Idea is to use this Cuper Elantra as the starting point for the new exterior look. I love the look of this body kit.
I would use the Cuper bodykit for the front bumper and side skirts. I didn’t like the rear bumper attachment that comes with the kit so instead I’ve decided to go with the Duraflex Evo rear bumper cover.
I also really wanted to swap in the 2.0T from a 2013 Sonata but after much adu, that would have required completely re-doing the chassis to the tune of $$$...not what I had in mind. So the plan has shifted to modifying/ rebuilding the current motor to increase performance.
The acquisitions
From December 2013 to around mid March 2014 I was in parts gathering mode. The Cuper kit and the Duraflex rear bumper cover eventually arrived as well as all the parts that would be needed to bring the Elantra back to life.
The Re-construction
At the end of March, the Elantra went to my friend Mark’s shop, Poggies Rods and Customs in Santa Rosa to repair the damage done to the frame, the apron, and the core support.
You can really see the damage to the apron here
By Mid April, the frame and apron repairs were done.
Mark and the repairs
The Engine bay was cleaned and re-sprayed.
Lastly, the quarter panels and hood were attached and adjusted.
The Engine
That brings us to where we are today. Before the new bumpers are attached and the Elantra goes in for final paint and body work, I want to get the engine enhancements completed and installed and the engine put back in the car.
At this point I’m open to any and all suggestions.
I’ve heard the basics: new headers, intake, exhaust, and bigger injectors off a 2000 Tiburon w/ tuning to the fuel management system to increase fuel flow.
Alpine Developments used to make a supercharger system for the motor which has been discontinued. The same goes for Sherwood automotives bolt on Turbo kit which is sadly no more.
SO…Thoughts?..... I’d like to keep engine costs under $5k if possible. It’s a stock 2.0 with around 250,000 miles.
Thanks, any and all comments and advice are greatly appreciated!!!
I know this sounds stupid, but can any XD/XD2 owners tell me where the cable that attaches from the glove box to the car is located? I'm referring to the one that lowers the glove box down gradually. I see the hole on the glove box, but the cable must have retracted somewhere I can't find.
I must have taken it off years ago to repaint it and I cannot find it anywhere!
So I was spec'ing out the new Elantra sedans, and reading the tests by the paid professionals. I've been researching both the Eco (1.4t, 128HP @5500, 156TQ @1400) and the Sport (1.6t, 201HP @6000, 195 TQ @1750)--both utilizing the 7-speed Dual-Clutch Transmission (DCT)--and there is ONE 2017 Eco within 100 miles of me. And no 2017 Sports.
One thing I have yet to find is an acceleration chart with max speeds in gears. Doesn't anyone do charts any more?
The earlier Elantra "Sports" were sort of Chevy-style "sport": tag, wheels, chin spoiler, no more power, no more this or that, AFAIK. I wasn't paying attention, over the past few years, for that very reason. So I could have missed something.
My recent drive in a Veloster 1.6t with a 7-DCT failed to impress. Very crude at low speed, and the kick at medium speeds was noticeably less than a 6A I drove with this same 201 HP mill in a Forte5 a couple of months back. THIS is progress?
This trannie has a three-phase switch. Slug. Normal. Swift. When I first nailed the throttle it was on Normal, and the acceleration was less than I expected. Granted, the motor had under 90 miles on it. A later belt with the trans set on Power felt a little better.
This car is loaded with all necessary toys. Hyundai Blue Link. Display audio with touchscreen. Sirius XM 90-day trial. Android Auto and Apple Car Play support. Dual zone automatic temperature control. Three-speed heated seats. Digital speedo. Blind spot detection + rear cross traffic alert. Proximity key and proximity trunk release. Passenger (and driver) seat height adjustment. Leather wrapped steering wheel & shifter. Projector headlights. EPA 32/40 rating, which the various hot-rod testers regularly exceeded. Carpeted floor mats!
Priced at just under $21,000 including shipping. That's quite a sweet spot. This car has all the toys I need. Dual zone and heated seats are high on my list.
At low speed, this trans had none of the jerkiness that the Veloster did. It didn't feel like a short-circuited bot was in charge. At higher speeds it up-shifted and kicked down as a trans should.
On the highway the Eco (don't call it an Echo...possibly the worst POS junker rental I've had in the last 20 years) is quiet and pretty smooth. On the extended (like 270 degrees around) on- and off-ramps I could bend this sukkah in at an easy fitty and it leaned just a wee bit. The screechy tires that paid pundits commented on did not screech. Perhaps I didn't push it enough? Tires on alloys are, interestingly, 195.65.15. Yes, it's 2007 all over again! The dusky alloy wheels are attractive and the tall tires don't look odd. They probably should've gone up one width-size, to 205, but Mr. Hyundai did not seek my wisdom.
I like a digital speedo. Much quicker acquisition. It also has standard round matching analog tach and speedo. When you punch the Normal/Eco/Sport trannie control button, the revs go up in Sport and drop back when you drop out of Sport. More miles would be interesting and would definitely help me sort out this drivetrain.
On the flip side, there are rear drum brakes. My bud said they may have kevlar linings? Way past my level of incompetence/knowledge, for sure.
The salesman, as car salesmen are wont to do, "explained" that the N/E/S button also "tightens up the suspension." Which is of course absurd, suspension and trannies are not connected in this 20 grand car and this Elantra does not have variable suspension settings. Where do they get such baloney? Tony Packos? http://www.tonypacko.com/
At speeds up to 80 the Elantra Eco is quiet and smooth. On rough pavement it's not quite as isolated as I thought it would be. But it still does well. It's far more isolated than my Soul, but Soul is not exactly the Cadillac--or Genesis if you prefer--of smooth-riding small cars.
The seats...unremarkable. Which is good. If I didn't notice the seat, then it was pretty comfortable. Not too firm, as so many are today. Not too squishy, as the classic squishy-seat 2001 Buick Century seats which set the standard, were. Kinda Baby Bear. With thanks and apologies to Hogan's Heroes.
I like the blue tinted gauges. Blue is much more relaxing than the harsher near-white light I'm used to.
So, in summary. A most pleasant surprise. A couple of nights ago I picked up a recent Car and Driver assessment of a 40+ grand Mercedes. The 7 DCT drove them nutty. It sounded even worse than the Veloster I drove. Is this weird or what?
I bought my little 2003 GLS brand new & it has been trouble free. Well my kid got into a head on collision (see pix) and the car is history. The good news is with the cars travelling at 45 mph, everybody walked away with minor scratches. (Great little car) I am looking to replace her with a 2001 to 2004 and was wondering how many parts would I be able to use from the GLS if I were to find a decent GT?
I would appreciate all feedback as I am looking at listing to replace this car for my kid now.
A year or so ago the admin here sticked a thread about TrueDelta's reliability research. I'm very grateful for his support. But perhaps too few people look at the stickies here, but we still do not have enough Elantras signed up to include any model year in the main survey.
The main advantages of this research: post actual problem rates, updated four times a year, and the results are all free to participants.
For the details, and to help get the Elantra included:
Hey guys!!! It's been a while. Can't believe it's been nearly 12 years. So, I need some input from you. Just today, my car started making this really loud knocking / clunking / ticking noise out of nowhere. I was driving for about 30 mins, and may be about 5 mins from my home I heard this noise, and I thought it was some other car. But the noise remained and I knew it was my car. Came home and opened the hood, and it seems the noise is coming from the left side of the engine.
Here's a video, and the sound is exactly like in the video.
Howdy! I, a few hours ago, just bought myself a 2002 GT. I'm stoked.
I just recently got my licence and I've learned to drive on and have been commuting with a $900 (CAD) beater '97 Ford Escort. Generally runs well and has been maintained okay by previous owners but still 281k km on it.
On Saturday something gave on it. Obd says it was a misfiring cylinder, and later a stuck intake solenoid. I'm not much of a mechanic so I fiddled a bit and just decided was time toto get something new that I wouldn't need to worry about stranding me halfway to work one morning.
I'm not rich, was looking for a car in the 5-7k (CAD) range to last me for a few years solidly. I was mostly eyeing up the Dodge Calibre, as they come in stick, are practical, and I really like the way they look. I actually at one point clearly stated to my partner that 'I don't want something ugly like an Elantra' remembering some crappy rental we had that looked and felt cheap.
Anyhow, we find a Calibre on Autotrader located not too far away and in my price range and we book it out there before they closed. Calibre was a bust. It was okay shape but the basic of the basic. No a/c, which I wanted for certain after last summer in my beater.
Turns out there were a lot of affordable manual cars on the lot. After looking and weighing some ooptions we spot a pair of Elantras: a 2004 sedan, and the 2002 GT hatchback. The sedan was priced more and had more km (199k) than the '02 (174k).
I took the '02 for a spin and fell in love immediately. Such a beautiful smooth ride, and buttery steering, lovely clutch, and smooth shifting. Brakes were bit spongy, but minor complaint. I was ready to walk out with it. Luckily for me there was no insurance issuer that late, so I booked it for Monday (today) to go back and purchase.
I spent the time inbetween rigorously looking up info on the car. That led me to here, and a few other places. I learned about the recall issue for the rusty control arm, as well as a good handful of other helpful tidbits. Made myself a nice checklist to go over when I saw the car again.
Now today I'm eager as all shit to get there. I decided I would test drive the 2004 Sedan so I could compare the brakes, as I couldn't determine anything solid online (air in lines? master cylinder?). Well the Sedan was terrible, creaky, poor handling, and not really smooth. Brakes only slightly better, so I suppose that it just how they are (to some extent).
Back to the GT... Another drive... Wow. Unfortunately no sunroof/lesther seats, BUT what was drawing me was how well this thing had been taken care of. A FAT stack of receipts with maintenance, including a few thing completely overhauled just over a year ago, like steering column, and some other stuff (my head is full, details escaping me), not to mention a decent 2009 Pioneer touch screen DVD player.
I checked under the car and the control arms are solid and seem to be the new ones with the drainholes. Minor rust elsewhere, and a rustly painted corner or two.
Ticked all my boxes, drove away for $2000 CAD. What a bloody bargain. Rear mirror came off when I adjusted roughly, but honestly if I need to put a a little effort or a couple thousand dollars into this car over the next couple years for brakes, whatever, I'm not going to balk at it.
So, that was waaaaaayyy longer than expected, but I'm honestly just very excited. Hasn't really sunk in yet! Oh, and the blue dash lights with red arms look great.
I am inclined to think that my Elantra will be able to do this quite easily, but last summer I acquired an inflatable boat that has a wood bottom and back to it. It's a 1991 Avon R2-80 and it weighs about 85 pounds. I'll also have a motor on it (no more than 83 pounds), and I will probably get a small utility trailer and convert it to a boat trailer. I have no doubt that my Elantra can pull this boat, but I have been thinking about getting both a transmission cooler and trailer brakes to help it tow the boat, but at the same time, since this load will be so light, it might be overkill. If my car can tow the boat (and I imagine it can do so easily), will it be necessary to invest in these extras prior to towing?
We the 2008 se is no longer a clean car. On my way home from work today I was hit or sideswiped in a roundabout. I was on in inside lane and when me and the other car were exiting she decided to come in to my lane. Not quite sure how she didn't she didnt see me but , all I seen was her hood come into me out if the corner of my eye. My car looks way worse than hers. Everyone is ok. She was so shook up. I was pissed for about 30 sec then I got over it and called the cops. Glad she has ins. I think the car looks worse in person.
Before you assume the worse, no i didn't blow it up. Ha, ha. Now on with my question. Is there some sort of over heating lock out feature? I know it sounds funny but here's what happen today. I was kinda stuck in snow today, when i was rocking the car back and forth, it wouldn't engage in reverse. Drive was fine , but no reverse. I shut the car off and restarted it 30sec later. All was fine and drove out. So what do you think may have happen?
When - under WHAT SPECIFIC CONDITIONS - does the Elantra RD open the purge solenoid for vapor release? I'm looking for the condition-satisfying sensor and actuator states ... during ON/Running.
When - under WHAT SPECIFIC CONDITIONS - does the Elantra RD close the CCV? I'm looking for the condition-satisfying sensor and actuator states ... during ON/Running ... and during or just after Start.
Finally, IF the CCV was closed (energized) (leak testing underway, e.g.,) at the time the car was turned off ... AND the ignition switch was then immediately turned back to ON (but not running) BEFORE the Main ECU Relay turned off ... would the CCV remain closed or not (would the ECU attempt to allow the test to run to completion) (would the ECU keep the CCV energized)?
My engine is going out in my 2002 elantra GT. I found a new engine but it is from a 2005 and it uses MAF instead of MAP is it possible to still swap it. I am thinking of using the intake manifold from my 02 engine which has the MAP sensor does anyone know if it will fit or even work?
New member KPSquared's thread on his high mileage Elantra got me thinking. How many of our members have high mileage cars? Vote in the poll (high mileage or not) and feel free to let us know how your high mileage car is doing mechanically. Poll answers are in miles, not km.
Hey I been on here for a couple of months now and got some great ideas that I put on my car. Now I'm running out of things to really do but I know there's more things out there to be done. Imma give a run down what I have done and plan on doing.
SRi Throttle body bypass Kyb struts with H&R lowering spring Drilled and slotted rotars with ceramic pads Kdm spoiler Ngk laser spark plugs SR Delxue strut bar 2nd cat delete 2.25in from 1st cat to back with magnaflow muffler with 3inch tip
Then I'm planned on adding Roadruns lip kit New wheels and tires Rear strut bar and sway bar
If y'all can give me some more ideas or pointer I would love the feedback. Btw I drive the XD2 HB Auto
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