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I own a 2014 Elantra GT 5 door.
I want to :
1. Add a subwoofer (10" or 12")
2. Replace the rear speakers (maybe)

The OEM receiver has no RCA (also called low voltage) output. It only has high voltage or speaker level output. To add a subwoofer, you need a Line Output Converter (LOC) or an amp that has High Voltage or Speaker Level inputs. I've read that amps with speaker level inputs is the better of the two.
I've never done anything involving speaker level inputs before. Has anyone done this before and what do you think of the sound quality. I turn my music up louder than the average user and would hate to have distortion or noise after installation.

I am currently looking at this amplifier.
Aside from the amp and sub, what else would I need to hook this up? For RCA it's just RCA cables, but here I see some type of 4-pin plug.

What size are the speakers in my car? (2014 GT 5 door non-nav)
Is the wiring diagram for the stock stereo the same as the sedan/coup and previous years (2011-2013?)
The sound quality to the amplifier will be just fine. You'll need to splice your rear speaker wires to the 4-wire connector, so you will need some speaker wire and either some slick wire stripping skills or some "quick splices" aka "t-taps" to make it easy. Other than that, you'll want to run power (with an in-line fuse) from your battery and ground to a chassis point preferably near the amp.

Your problem will be the main speakers trying to cover the full spectrum of frequencies. Adding a sub is one part of the solution, but now that you have offloaded the burden of the lows to the sub, you need to filter out the low frequencies to the mains. This can only be done with a high-pass crossover, which your stock stereo doesn't have. When you crank the volume from your stock head unit to the mains, the one-way stock speakers will give you a ton of distortion as they try to handle low, mid, and high frequency signals. Even two- or three-way speakers will do this.

Furthermore, your head unit will deliver a noisy signal at high volumes as it is. Many aftermarket head units have integrated high-pass crossovers and most will give a cleaner signal at a higher volume than an OEM H/U. If you really like to crank it on a regular basis, you might want to use a 4-channel amp for your mains to get the clean power you want. Most of them have built-in high-pass crossovers as well.

Thanks Roy. That helped a lot.
If I get a 4-channel, what do I look for to be able to filter the frequencies for both rear speakers and a sub.
For example I want to high pass filter my stock speakers and low pass my sub signals, what key words do I look for while buying an amp? Is it x-over?

Right now I have a 2-channel amp and there is only one x-over adjustment. I imagine that I can only have either high pass or low pass filtering. A 4-channel gives me double that, meaning I can block low frequencies to my main speakers and block high freqs to my sub. What happens if I want to ALL 4 of my speakers from my amp, meaning block high freqs to front and rear door speakers while still running a sub? Will I need a 6 or 8 channel?
Check out this thread as it may help you out with your install.

I do not know for certain if the wiring diagrams are the same, but I would assume they are between the '13 and '14 models.

I just added the subs (2 10's) and didn't replace any of the interior speakers. In my opinion the stock speakers are decent and I can crank it up and it sounds great. The hatch is a small car so it doesn't take a lot to make it sound good.

The clarity may not be as precise and at some point I may replace the stock speakers, but for now this works for me. The stock speakers are 6.5" and are riveted in so you need to drill them out if you were to replace them.

As an FYI, I had planned to just add on 12" sub, but the deal on the package I got was too good to pass up. And honestly I love the look of the box so I am very happy with my decision especially for the cost. Good luck with your install! thumbsup.gif
Oh, so many options!

If you want to stick with your stock stereo, it sounds like you will be looking for some combination of amplifiers in your car. You can get one amp for your mains and another for your sub. In that case, you'll be looking for a 4-channel amp with a high pass crossover for the mains and a one- or two-channel amp with a low-pass crossover for the sub. Another option is to get a 5- or 6- channel amp which can drive both the mains and the sub(s). These usually have dedicated crossovers for the four main channels and another set of crossovers for the sub channels. Usually these also have high-level inputs, which is what you need if you intend to pull the signal from your H/U's speaker wires.

Instead of going with High Level input, I think I'll go with what Alex2013GT did and get the LOC. I think the LC6i and a 5 channel amp would be great. I don't want to have two amps in the car, especially since I think they deleted the hidden compartment next to the spare tire.
The LC6i can probably be hidden behind the center console, and the amp can be mounted under the passenger seat or on the subwoofer box.
I've been looking at the 5-channel amp. It has 3 pairs of RCA inputs. One from the front. One from the rear. Another pair says Sub Input. Where do I get the Sub input from? Do I just take the RCA from rear speakers and split them?
The "Channel 3" output from the LC6i would be your subwoofer channel.

If you get a five-channel sub with line level inputs it eliminates the need for the LC6i. Just sayin'. A LOC does the same thing that the amp's internal high-level input does. It's an integrated LOC.

The high input plug to go into the amp is $7.50 per. The price for a passive LOC is 10$+RCA cables. I got the high input harness anyways just because I'm curious to see what they're like.
This the sub I got:

I also ordered 8 gauge install kit. I hope that's enough for this application.

So the speakers are rivitted in there. No kidding. I saw this Hyundai Santa Fe speaker replacement video and it looks like the same deal. Speaker mounts are rivitted and the person doing the video just cut out the old speakers and mounted replacement 6.5" on there. I'm going to do the same once I take the door panel off.

One question about tweeters. How are tweeters connected? I imagine they just run down to the speakers and connect to there. Kind of like in parallel with the door speaker.

So I went with Fosgate R300x4 prime and Fosgate R1 150W. I'll be posting pictures soon.
I also bought 2 sets of Rockford Fosgate R165X3 Prime 6.5-Inch Full-Range 3-Way. I noticed that the front speakers have tweeter and main speakers separate. Will it hurt anything if I replace with the full range speakers? Will I keep the tweeters?
What about rear door speakers?
I saw this video of (santa fe) someone tearing the old 6.5 speakers out and putting in new 6.5 on the mount in the car. Didn't touch the rivets at all.
I'm fine with the speakers I have now, but I want to put these speakers in at least the rear doors.
Swapping the rears is straightforward. Due to the placement you won't hear much high treble from them but you'll definitely notice the midbass and mids. The fronts are your choice. If you use the stock tweeters as well as the full-range speakers, you'll probably find the sound to be a bit bright on the high end, but you might also like the results so you have to experiment.


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