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elantragt
I was gonna take the money from selling my camera on Ebay and put it towards a new camera but instead I did this. tongue.gif

I've always known that overall a CAI produces more power than a SRI but I also had worries about the chance of hydrolock. So I went with a simple short ram with a quality filter to replace my stock intake. I also did the throttle body bypass, put on a polished throttle body, added a heat shield too (which helped a bit) but the truth is my SRI was still sucking in warm underhood air which limited the potential.

Back in 2006 I found out about the K&N Apollo Cold Intake System and posted about it here at the club when I did. Ever since then I was very interested but the price and difficulty in getting them put it on the back burner. The idea of a CAI that could easily be transformed into an SRI (if need be) was very intriguing. And makes a ton of sense.



Well, I finally did get a K&N Apollo CIS and installed it. And I'm very impressed. Originally I planned to use the aluminum intake elbow from my SRI but it was too big. Instead I'm using the stock elbow (for now, I still may switch it out for a smaller aluminum elbow at some point). The install was very simple. From beginning to end less than a 1/2 hour DIY project. I know our member Toecutter installed his putting the cold air hose in the location where the stock resonator was. I took a somewhat different approach. My hose is routed more towards the front air dam of the car (sort of tucked between the fog light and air dam area). Sorry for the crappy cell phone pic:



Let's talk about performance. My SRI gave me somewhat better throttle response than stock, noticeable louder but awesome sound and a nice boost at wide open throttle. It also seemed that as underhood temps rose, power dropped off a bit. I also think that I might have lost a little low end punch. But that WOT sound was positively intoxicating.

On to my impressions with the K&N Apollo installed. There doesn't seem to be any real difference in throttle response compared to the OEM intake setup. The noise level at idle and anything below WOT is only slightly louder than stock. I almost hear my Borla exhaust more than the engine. At WOT though, it is definitely increased from stock but much more subdued than it was with my SRI. A lot of this probably has to do with the fact I'm using the stock elbow for now. As far as perceived power, this is where it gets interesting. There definitely seems to be a bit more low end oomph than with the SRI or stock setup. And at anything above 4,000 RPM it's downright smile inducing. Definitely more pull than with my SRI. The power seems very smooth.

Here's something else that shows me this thing is much better than an SRI... After I took the car out on about a 1 hour test drive, I parked in front of my house and opened the hood. The Apollo's flexible aluminum air hose, the filter casing, stock elbow and throttle body were all totally cold to the touch. With my SRI, the intake elbow was actually almost hot to the touch after driving.

Sounds good huh? Well it gets better and this will interest a bunch of EC members:

By a stroke of good luck I found Summit Racing online had the K&N RC-5052AB universal Apollo CIS kit. And it was in stock! It was $126 shipped and I got it in 2 days. ohmy.gif Summit Racing is excellent.

Yes this thing is pricey for an intake and it's possible to rig up something similar yourself but I'm very happy with this product. K&N is quality.
elantragt
BTW, I meant to mention that I'm not really seeing any difference in gas mileage (so far) up or down. Then again, I just installed it.
popeye
Track the mileage if you can and post the results for us fencesitters...
Levonida0103
sounds great mitch, very dangerous I might just get one
hyundaiLKsunday
QUOTE (popeye @ Jan 20 2008, 01:36 PM) *
Track the mileage if you can and post the results for us fencesitters...


Maybe Toecutter could let us know how his has been working...
silet
Does the inlet, by the airdam, face the open air? Is it a ram air?
Toecutter
Although my EGT is garaged right now, I drove with the Apollo most of the summer and fall. I have come to similar conclusions as Mitch regarding the Apollo. It is my favorite intake setup so far. However, I have replaced the OEM elbow with some aluminum kit. Yes, the Apollo is a bit pricier than the Ebay Accord intake, but it is worth it IMO.

BTW, it's also nice to see that Summit if finally stocking these.
elantragt
QUOTE (silet @ Jan 24 2008, 03:14 PM) *
Does the inlet, by the airdam, face the open air? Is it a ram air?

Telly, here's the deal... I still have the stock resonator in place. Having an SRI for all that time, there really was no need to remove it. For a while I went back to the stock setup w/ a K&N drop-in and came to the conclusion that I actually lost low end torque with the SRI. I honestly think all the SRI gave me was some increase at high RPM and a lot more noise (sweet noise though, lol). The more I drive with the Apollo installed, the more I feel it not only adds a noticeable increase in high end power but it feels like there's more low end pull too. The fact that after extended driving the entire intake system stays cold tells me my setup is good. Mileage overall seems the same. Then again, I've been driving it pretty hard. tongue.gif

Ok.. is it ram air? I'm not sure. The end of the aluminum intake hose is sort of a bell shape... I have it facing downward in a spot that looks to get a ton of air through the front air dam. All I can tell you is the power seems very smooth up to 4,000 and after that it kinda screams.

This is a crappy cell phone pic but you can see where the hose ends:

Click to view attachment

Another cell phone pic of the install:

Click to view attachment
silet
I think I get it now. You are not getting a direct ram air affect, but you place it near fresh air. I was hoping to see how the setup would work with ram air. Maybe you guys can play around with the inlet placement at some point and let us know?!?! blush.gif
Silentwolf
That is why i like the XD2 hatches so much. No routing the CAI near the radiator, just straight up from the open fog light bay and behind the battery. On the other hand tho, you do have to move the battery to the inside some. I suspect with that flexible tubeyou wont have to widen the hole or move the battery, but i only paid $80 for my Tib intake.
fgummett
I believe Toecutter has it set up to ram cold air:

http://www.elantraclub.com/forum/index.php...c=15816&hl=
silet
Thanks for the reminder! Yes, he does have it close to the opening around the fog lights, but is a few inches away. You might have fresh/cold air, but it would be nice to see the inlet right up front, fully into the airstream.
elantragt
I don't see where a ram air effect would really matter until you're well into speeds way over legal limits. True or no? I'm just very happy with the increases over an SRI and the fact I can make it an SRI in about 5 seconds for rainy weather. biggrin.gif
fgummett
Put your hand out the window at any speed and you will get air pushing back against you... in the same way I expect that a forward facing inlet (with a sealed system behind it) may even go so far as to have some positive pressure in it... question.gif
elantragt
I found this information on an online site:

QUOTE
RAM AIR. THEORETICAL POWER GAINS

Atmospheric pressure is about 14.7 psi at sea level.

At sea level, the pressure from ram air at 60 mph is about 0.08 psi. This is about 0.5% of atmospheric pressure. On a 200 horsepower engine, a 0.08 psi pressure increase will add about 1 horsepower.

At 85 mph, the pressure from ram air is about 0.16 psi. or about 1% of atmospheric pressure (at sea level). On a 200 horsepower engine, this will add about 2 horsepower.

At 100 mph, the pressure from ram air would be about 0.22 psi, or about 1.5% of atmospheric pressure. On a 200 horsepower engine, this will add about 3 hp.

COLD AIR. THEORETICAL POWER GAINS

Cold air intakes are very important for maximum performance and fuel economy. It is generally accepted that for every 10°F temperature drop of intake air, an engine will gain 1% more power. Under hood temperatures can be over 100°F higher than outside temperatures, so cold air can be good for a 10% power gain compared to air filters which get hot air from the engine compartment. On a 200 horsepower engine, a 100° F temperature reduction can be good for 20 horsepower.

Cold air provides significantly more power gains than ram air.


This seems to be saying that lowering air temp is much more important than any gains from a ram air effect. At least that's how I read it. confused-scratchhead3.gif
fgummett
Can't argue with them numbers biggrin.gif
silet
Theories are good, but reality is somewhere between those two. Ram air is more likely to have all the possible cold air available. A cold air system tucked near an opening could be hit or miss. You don't know until you test it. That's why I asked if the inlet is in direct or ram air.
elantragt
Telly, all I can tell ya is where it's at seems to be getting an abundance of cold air on my setup. thumbsup.gif As far as ram air, I'm no expert and was simply posting some info I found.
Toecutter
Proper ram-air is very tricky to set up, and without doing the math, and wind-tunnel testing, or at least some good computer modeling, I cannot say that there would be any benefit of sticking the collector of the Apollo right in front of the car. In order for ram-air to be effective, the collector must be placed in an area of high pressure, and I don't know where those areas are on the car. If you incorrectly place the inlet in a pocket of low pressure air, or turbulent air, then you may not be getting all the benefit that you might otherwise. Therefore, I believe the safe bet to be placing the inlet in neutral or "protected" cool air inside the fender well.
moonlite5hadow
QUOTE (Toecutter @ Jan 25 2008, 08:02 PM) *
Proper ram-air is very tricky to set up, and without doing the math, and wind-tunnel testing, or at least some good computer modeling, I cannot say that there would be any benefit of sticking the collector of the Apollo right in front of the car. In order for ram-air to be effective, the collector must be placed in an area of high pressure, and I don't know where those areas are on the car. If you incorrectly place the inlet in a pocket of low pressure air, or turbulent air, then you may not be getting all the benefit that you might otherwise. Therefore, I believe the safe bet to be placing the inlet in neutral or "protected" cool air inside the fender well.


the area of highest pressure on a car is the front area that is directly hitting the oncoming air, and under the front of car, where the air is compressed then pushed out the sides and down the length of the car to the rear. I would assume that if any ram-air effect were to be accomplished with this system that it would be by placing (or even attatching) the end of the intake tube to an empty fog light opening or in the front fascia somewhere.
BNystrom
QUOTE (moonlite5hadow @ Jan 25 2008, 11:41 PM) *
the area of highest pressure on a car is the front area that is directly hitting the oncoming air, and under the front of car, where the air is compressed then pushed out the sides and down the length of the car to the rear. I would assume that if any ram-air effect were to be accomplished with this system that it would be by placing (or even attatching) the end of the intake tube to an empty fog light opening or in the front fascia somewhere.

It's nowhere near that simple. The pressure at the front of the car will vary with the airflow direction and velocity. Regardless, as the number posted above indicate, ram air is essentially a myth at anything near legal driving speeds. The only way to truly ram air into an intake is via forced induction (supercharging or turbocharging).
silet
^^^ True. I meant that if you have the inlet facing unobstructed air, you'll benefit from the cold air. Ram air provides no significant boost.
elantragt
update2.gif

I love this thing! Ok... mileage is up by about 2 MPG and there is definitely more low end and more overall power than with the SRI.

star.gif star.gif star.gif star.gif star.gif
hyundaiLKsunday
Just placed my order with Summit Racing biggrin.gif
sciphi
Damn, looks like I'll have to jerry-rig something similar. Mileage is good right about now!
fastmanakos
I know that it has been 3 years since someone write on this topic.I want to buy the apollo.Is it easy on installation?Is it old?I mean is it out a newer better model.I want to put it to my 2000' lantra.How do i know which one from these fit my model : http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?Prod=RC-5052AB ?Is the performance noticeable?How about the noise?Is it too loud?Have anyone dyno the car before and after so we can know how about hp increased?
elantragt
The Apollo will work with your car and is an easy install. The model you list (RC-5052AB) is the same universal fit one that I installed. I didn't have it dyno'ed but it definitely adds some torque and hp.

One of our affiliates streetsideauto has the cheapest price online although you'd have to inquire about shipping to Greece
fastmanakos
QUOTE
The Apollo will work with your car and is an easy install. The model you list (RC-5052AB) is the same universal fit one that I installed. I didn't have it dyno'ed but it definitely adds some torque and hp.

One of our affiliates streetsideauto has the cheapest price online although you'd have to inquire about shipping to Greece


he doesn't send to greece.What about the noise of the apollo?And also what about fuel consumption?From your experience how many horsepower you think increased?
elantragt
It won't add huge amounts of horsepower but it does make the car more fun to drive. You're not going to get huge horsepower gains unless you go forced induction (turbo).
Rudy2D
Newbies like me aren't familiar with all these acronyms: CAI (cold-air intake?) , SRI, CIS, WOT (wide-open throttle?).


Thanks.

And what about ATS and MAF placement? I got an eBay intake kit on my '98; scary pickup. But--my ECM keeps kicking out lean-mixture codes; and high-(air)flow codes.
elantragt
CAI = Cold Air Intake
CIS = Close Intake System (mad up by K&N to describe their Apollo)
SRI = Short Ram Intake
WOT = Wide Open Throttle
MAF = Mass Air Flow Sensor

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