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2002 Elantra GT

Ok, Locked the car with the Fob last Friday(three days ago). Went out of town until Monday. Tried to unlock car Monday morning with the same Fob that I locked it with, red light on Fob blinks but doors do not unlock. Go in house get second Fob, same thing happens, red light blinks but doors do not unlock. Unlock car with key, try to start car, alarm starts sounding, car won't start. Turn key to off position alarm stops.

Research how to deactivate alarm. Turn key to on position wait 30 secs, until alarm stops sounding, wait 30 more seconds and alarm should deacvtivate, and should not reactivate until Fob works and doors can be locked via the Fob.

Problem is this is not working either. Put key in and turn to on postion and the alarm starts sounding, wait until alarm stops sounding, wait 30 more seconds and the alarm starts sounding again. Tried numerous variations of this, turning key to off and taking key out after alarm stops sounding, then trying again but nothing.

Anything else I can do to deactivate the alarm so that I can start the car and get it to the dealer?

Thank You
All I know is what I read, which is the whole 30 second deal... haven't actually tried it myself

don't know if this would work or not, but if you drain the power (ie disconnect the battery for a couple minutes) it may reset the alarm issue and let you start the car..
I'd say it's worth a try if what you've tried hasn't worked

ps... welcome aboard, hopefully you can find more useful info on the site smile.gif
Great idea sargeants. I'll have to try that. From further research it seems the alarm should have went off when I unlocked the door with the key instead of the Fob.

Reading the owners manual added a little more insight as well, imaginge that huh. With the word CAUTION next to it it states not to try and start the car when the alarm is going off. This did happen this morning, any ideas on if this has caused the system to completely lock out?

Hopefully disconnectiong the battery form a few minutes will reset/reboot the system and atleast let me start the car. As to avoid the towing fee.

P.S. This board has a wealth of knowledge, glad I happened across it. B)

Thanks Again
Same exact thing happened to me when I had a dead battery.
sargeants, thanx for the idea but it didn't work.

Well it did sit all weekend and it has been cold. I hooked up the jumper cables but still no luck. I think I tripped something when attempting to start the car while the alarm was sounding.

Just can't seem to get the alarm deactivated. Although it seems something else a awry because the alarm only sounds when the key is in the ignition and turned to the on position. there is only like 10 seconds between alarm cycles as well.

Any other ideas would be greatlt appreciated.

Thank You
Until you get the problem figured out, go ahead and unplug the siren so it doesn't annoy everyone. It's up by the master cylinder.
QUOTE (ricerrx7 @ Jan 14 2008, 08:47 PM) *
Same exact thing happened to me when I had a dead battery.

lol - this comment to me begs the question ... "So - how did you fix it". smile.gif
QUOTE (MEly @ Jan 15 2008, 07:10 AM) *
lol - this comment to me begs the question ... "So - how did you fix it". smile.gif

That's a joke, right?
QUOTE (MEly @ Jan 15 2008, 10:10 AM) *
lol - this comment to me begs the question ... "So - how did you fix it". smile.gif

He replaced the starter.
QUOTE (ricerrx7 @ Jan 15 2008, 10:15 AM) *
That's a joke, right?

uh... now it is. I think I struggled putting 1-and-1 together. Call me challenged.
OK, now I'm really gonna make yah think, or laugh tongue.gif . Sorry for long post but it's worth the read, if you can follow it lol.

I got the alarm deacvtivated woo hoo! Hooked jumper cables back up for another 20 minutes. Had wife come out and hold down Hood switch. Tried another 5-6 times, by the way thanx for the tip on unhooking the siren that thing is annoying. Was getting really frustrated so while alarm is sounding I try to start the vehicle again, you can hear it start to turn but then it stops. On the 5th try of this the car doors all locked automatically. I immediately hit the unlock on the fob and it worked. With the alarm deactivated the car started right up.

So, I leave the car running while I get ready for work, in case it is a battery problem. I get in the car and leave. I notice that I have no clock, no radio, the dome lights don't work and fuel guage doesn't work. I try to lock the doors by locking the driver side door, which should lock all car doors, all the doors lock but then immedialetly unlock, like when you try to lock the doors with the keys in the ignigtion but the car is not started. I try again, same thing, but I notice that the clock comes on for that instant that the doors are locked. I have also now lost dash board lights, but turning headlights off and back on brings back the dash board lights, until I try to lock the car again.

So, I take the car by the dealership to test the Fob, no since in paying for a tow if the car isn't going to work. Get to the dealer turn the car off, try to start car and it starts right up. Hmmm ok, turn the car off try the Fob, Fob doesn't work. Start the car and check all the headlights, taillights blinkers hazards and such, all working fine. Get in car and go to work, figure I'll make an appointment and bring the car in when they have the time. Being the curious one I am, when I get into the parking lot at work I try the Fob, while the car is running, the Fob locks and unlocks the doors no problem. turn the Car off, try the Fob, Fob doesn't work.

Fob only works now when the car is on, now isn't that bass ackwards. Oh and when the doors are locked with the Fob they stay locked but not when I try to lock them manually.

Anyone ever have this happen before?

Any ideas on how to get my clock-dome lights-radio-fuel gage working again?

Off to get a new battery tonight and get an appointment scheduled with the dealership.

Thanx again
wow, that IS weird. it's behaving totally bass ackwards, as you say. there is a short somewhere. it almost sounds like the ignition switch is screwed up. there is a signal that gets sent to the ETACS (the alarm and keyless unit) when the key is in the ignition tumbler, even in the off position. it tells the ETACS not to allow the doors to lock and not allow the system to arm. when you said you turned the car off did you also mean remove the key? or key is still in ignition? i'm wondering if that signal is getting stuck on.

just for kicks, try shooting a little bit of WD40 into the ignition tumbler and working the key in and out a few times. see if that helps any.
on one of my cars when you try start car with alarm thinks you broke in you have to turn key to acc so just power is on, hit the button so alarm turns off, then start the car
Thanx southpawboston and jayguy173! It seems to becoming increasing clear that the ETACS might be hosed.

OK, after a bunch of playing around. The Fob only works when the key is in the ignition and in the ON position, car does not have to be running. I understand now why I lose the dash board lights when locking the car via the Fob or manually via the driverside lock button. When locking the car, the computer turns off all interior lights in the car, I'm guessing to preserve the battery incase left on by mistake. This is remedied by just turning of exterior lights and turning them back on. I still have no Radio, Clock, Dome lights or fuel gauge. I did notice that the water temp gauge is fluctuating a bunch when driving the car, from "C" to the "1/4" mark, over 5 seconds, and this happens continuously. I'm assuming this is tied into the ETACS somehow. The radio/clock/dome lights and fuel gauge all work for the split second while the doors are being locked, the pulse lock mechanism? I'm guessing.

Southpawboston, you mention unhooking the battery for at least an hr before playing with the ETACS, why an hr?
Can the ETACS be reprogrammed/rebooted?
Can I replace the ETACS, is it feasible for me to do it or should I let the dealer do it?
Can I by-pass the ETACS entirely if I don't need the alarm and the Key Less entry?
Where is the best place to get a new ETACS with out paying the dealer mark-up?
If so, will I have to program the New ETACS to my current Fob's?

Again thanks for all of your help

Tracy smile.gif
the ETACS does not control all those things that you mentioned. it only controls the interior dome light, trunk light, ignition key illumination ring, door locks, starter interrupt, and alarm siren (and the 4-way flashers during arming/disarming/alarm tripping). it can not be reflashed, reprogrammed, or rebooted.

it is starting to sound more and more like one thing or a combination of two things.

1) you have a fuse blown. it's been over 1.5 years since i've owned my elantra, so i can't remember which fuse it is, but i'm pretty sure you have a blown fuse. it is *possible* that the ETACS is flaking out because the fuse that powers it is blown (and may be the same fuse that powers the radio and clock). it may seem to work momentarily when the key is on because it is getting its power indirectly from another source that is normally only on when the key is on. the ETACS has inputs from all types of sources, including various 12V sources. you know that if you block the path of something in motion, it tries to find an alternative path. this happens when voltage pathways are interrupted as well.

2) i'm thinking this is less of a possibility now, but i still thing the ignition tumbler may be messed up.

i'm really leaning more toward just one or more fuses being blown.

another question. you have an 02. did you ever have the door harness corrosion TSB done to your car? there was a TSB issued for a problem with a leaking A-pillar causing corrosion of the door harness. this was causing all sorts of weird things to happen to the power windows, door locks, mirrors, and door light (the red light in the door itself) by shorting out at the door harness connector at the A-pillar. this could have caused fuses to blow and in turn, weird things to happen with the ETACS. do the red lights in your front doors work properly? have you had ANY problems with the power windows or mirrors? try them now. since your car is now out of warranty, that TSB might not be done for free, and it's a big job. sorry. some dealers may be sympathetic to you and do it anyway, since it is a known and common problem with the 01-02 elantras.
blah-oy1.gif DOH!

Southpawboston, you da man!!!! biggrin.gif

As I wipe the egg off of my face, I would like to express my graditude for all of the help. It was just a fuse. I never even thought it could be a fuse because of the way the systems flashed on when locking the doors. Not to mention the fob working while the car was turned on.

It was fuse number 25, 15 amp fuse, bottom row all the way to the right when looking at it, and it controls:
Door Lamps, Instrument Cluster, Data link connector, Multipurpose check connector, Room lamps, ETACM, Power connector

Seems everything is in working order now.

I have not had the driver side door TSB done but I will take it in and have them look at it.

So, the blown fuse prevented the ETACM from receiving the fob signal and kept the alarm from being deactiveted. But, then how did I get the alarm deactivated? ahh well it was a little easier and a lot cheaper than I ever expected it to be.

Thanka Again for all of the help. This board is a wealth of knowledge and has even got me thinking about a couple mods to my GT.

Thanx Tracy
wink.gif glad i can still be of help, even long after giving up my elantra.
QUOTE (sid2jynx @ Jan 17 2008, 03:50 PM) *
It was fuse number 25, 15 amp fuse, bottom row all the way to the right when looking at it, and it controls:
Door Lamps, Instrument Cluster, Data link connector, Multipurpose check connector, Room lamps, ETACM, Power connector

This warning should be pinned in the electrical workshop:

Before trying to troubleshoot any electrical problem, check fuse 25!!

Fuse 25 FTW! This thing has been a culprit of more than one catastrophe.

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