2007 Elantra SE subwoofer install, harder than you realize. Options

[cclngthr]

On hte fascia side of mounting an aftermarket h/u, there are two fascias available for the HD... one the double-din opening sized version, and one the din-and-a-half plus sized opening version seen in some of hte higher versions of the HD. While a pain, it will most likely be possible to install a din-sized aftermarket radio, physically, in that hole, and have it flush.

As for the electrical side...that, not a clue

I personally would not try it. The BCM is monitoring the voltage draw and when something is added that that has a different voltage draw than a stock unit, things can easily be shut down by the ECU. Although it is possible to put an A/M deck in, having the ECU not shut things down might be the tricky part.

I wanted to keep a stock look, but have a better sound. Adding the sub solved that issue.

[geoelectric]

cclngthr:

So, what am I looking forward to if I want to wire a basslink and a cap into the trunk? I'd be tapping the rear speaker wires into the high-level inputs, so I don't need to wire a remote lead (it sees the voltage on the rear speakers for auto-on). The only requirements from there are to run a positive wire from the battery (through a 25A fuse, or so the manual says) and run a ground to the chassis.

Thoughts?

[cclngthr]

cclngthr:

So, what am I looking forward to if I want to wire a basslink and a cap into the trunk?  I'd be tapping the rear speaker wires into the high-level inputs, so I don't need to wire a remote lead (it sees the voltage on the rear speakers for auto-on).  The only requirements from there are to run a positive wire from the battery (through a 25A fuse, or so the manual says) and run a ground to the chassis.

Thoughts?

The basslink MUST be connected directly into the battery and the remote lead to the aux power jack, which is switched. The audio leads should have a transformer which converts high level to low level signals.

[geoelectric]

The basslink MUST be connected directly into the battery and the remote lead to the aux power jack, which is switched. The audio leads should have a transformer which converts high level to low level signals.

The basslink manual says you don't need a remote lead if you're using speaker wire as the input (which it can take directly--it has its own line level converter).

What I'm asking is whether any of that--a typical trunk/amp install, aside from the lack of a remote lead--will cause the BCM to freak? You just have me scared at this point.

[Bobzilla]

  You just have me scared at this point. 

He's very good at that. As long as you're not running anything directly from another thing (i.e.: running your power directly from the radio) you will be fine. Run a direct line to the battery for power, use your speaker inputs for the remote lead and be happy.

Acura BCM's are just as "finiky" but customers are always running amps and subs.

[cclngthr]

He's very good at that.  As long as you're not running anything directly from another thing (i.e.: running your power directly from the radio) you will be fine.  Run a direct line to the battery for power, use your speaker inputs for the remote lead and be happy. 

Acura BCM's are just as "finiky" but customers are always running amps and subs.

Keep in mind Bob, I have a tad bit more info that only service techs get. It is possible to run amps, but you have to know how the thing works and its limitations. That is why I don't recommend the average Joe to mess with it.
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The basslink manual says you don't need a remote lead if you're using speaker wire as the input (which it can take directly--it has its own line level converter).

What I'm asking is whether any of that--a typical trunk/amp install, aside from the lack of a remote lead--will cause the BCM to freak?  You just have me scared at this point. 

If the remote lead is missing, that is better.

[Bobzilla]

Colin, you NEVER suggest an average Joe mess with ANYTHING. Ever. You make everything out to be this wierd voodoo-ish bad karma deal when in reality, it's not but 1/100t as bad.

[cclngthr]

Colin, you NEVER suggest an average Joe mess with ANYTHING.  Ever.  You make everything out to be this wierd voodoo-ish bad karma deal when in reality, it's not but 1/100t as bad.

What you guys DON'T realize is, is the programming of the mappings on the CAN system is very close to the limit. You assume it is very easy to modify these units, and think the programming is identical to Chevy or Honda. It isn't. A source told me that it is a German programming that could be thought of as over engineered (since the ecu controls this, it does matter). I don't know exactly who the manufacturer would be, but Mercedes or BMW does come to mind.

I was told NOT to change ANY ELECTRICAL component of the car in class. Any more draw on the system than what is currently there WOULD cause problems. This concept was also reinforced by my dealer since they knew I was going to change things, or attempt this. Adding lights to existing lighting circuits would cause trouble. Andy did mention here in the thread I started about the aux audio alternator noise I was having that if people have the audio controls on the steering wheel to not change out the radio, just live with it. I assume he means that the controls on the wheel do go through the BCM first and if the signals are not present, problems could arise.

Knowing what one manufacturer does does not automatically mean other manufacturers do the exact same thing. I think Hyundai has looked into the Honda gremlins before they designed theirs.

[gonzo777]

Not really. If you look at it this way, as the car is designed currently, all of the switch wires have a low voltage signal wire that goes to the BCM. The high, 12 volt wires are separate and the switches won't have the problem of heating up and blowing out. Although there are more wires, all of the main 12 volt leads has been reduced. It makes it safer. Also if there is an electrical problem, having the CAN system capable of shutting down selected systems prevents a lot of damage. Since there is the availability of the ECU CEL capability, finding problems is easier.

I remember hearing about things possibly going to a 144V (?) system because of how many electronic devices are in cars now.

If it's true, this how they're going to keep people isolated from that high voltage I guess. Just getting the kings worked out while we're still using 12V.

[cclngthr]

I remember hearing about things possibly going to a 144V (?) system because of how many electronic devices are in cars now.

If it's true, this how they're going to keep people isolated from that high voltage I guess.  Just getting the kings worked out while we're still using 12V.

I don't know anything about that one. It's possible. Running a 5 volt signal does save on power and allow more high powered devises in the car.
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Found Equus's post:

You can install additional grounds and it will not be an issue with the BCM. Besides that the cigarette lighter circuit is NOT on the BCM or on any CAN lines. It is not sensitive as portrayed. CAI, headlight mods or anything related to lighting systems, exhaust BEFORE THE CATALYST are areas you should stay out of.
Hope this eases some of your concerns. Any mods or additions to Audio Systems can be done without intereference to BCM. Just make sure that IF the vehicle HAS audio controls on the steering wheel it is wise to leave it alone and "live" with the Audio System that is OEM.

[geoelectric]

OK, that clears things up some. Thanks. And yeah, it's an SE, with steering wheel controls. The intent is to keep the stock HU (which actually sounds pretty good, to my ears) and just add the basslink for now.

I -may- swap out speakers later, but honestly, the stock 172W system isn't bad at all. The only reason I could see going to aftermarket speakers is if I blow the OEM ones and they can't be covered under warranty. Then I'd go to something more durable.

On the subject of alternator noise through the AUX, are you talking about the port? Because it's plainly not grounded to the same point as the lighter/power ports. I had to buy this from Crutchfield:

http://tinyurl.com/vrcqk (1/8"F->GLI->1/8"M)

I have no idea how Hyundai can pump the whole "port for your iPod" thing and not ground the power correctly.

Out of curiosity--and I suspect this is a lost cause--have you found any ways (documented or otherwise) to change the speed-sensitive volume profile for the stereo, or disable it entirely? It's too aggressive for my tastes, going up and down at least 1 or 2 full notches between idle and at-speed.

[Bobzilla]

I was told . . .

You were also told dozens of other misleading and known WRONG things in the past. Remember the CAI thread? Or the engine thread? Or any other thread regarding "secret" information.

Geo, I'm suprised their isn't a way to turn the auto volume off. GM has been using that "feature" (I call it an annoyance" for close to 10 years and they have always offered an off feature.