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Announcement: How to become an ElantraClub VIP |
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elantragt |
6698 |
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Last post by: elantragt
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32
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boner007 |
4,849 |
17th October 2009 - 10:46 AM
Last post by: ROB4223 |
Alright, i purchased a K&N filter for my 2005 elantra; a week later my check engine light turns on. My Car begin to drop rpms, while idling, and then shoot up to 2,000, continually. So I took it to the dealer, and I had to get a new MAF sensorbecause the oil from the filter got onto the tiny needle in the sensor. So, just a warning for future buyers of this type of filter. It doesn't happen to all the cars, but to some.
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27
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ricerrx7 |
4,385 |
12th March 2009 - 03:45 PM
Last post by: sed |
Many people ask about the ECU reset. What does it do? Is it really worth doing? Are there any negative effects? I think it's time to have a definitive guide to the ECU reset.
Why do we reset the ECU's?
The main reason we reset the ECU's in our cars is for more power. Plain and simple. Why? After a little while of driving, the ECU de-tunes the engine to satisfy the O2 needs of the cat. When you reset the ECU, it resets the fuel maps to a base value that's more suited to power.
Is this bad in any way?
Yes, it can be harmful. When you reset the ECU it changes the fuel maps, which is potentially harmful to the cats.
How often should I do it?
Only when you need the extra power. If you are going to race, dyno, or show off, these are the only times you should do the reset from a power standpoint.
How do I reset the ECU.
There's multiple theories about this. The time consuming way is to disconnect the negative battery terminal for 15 minutes, press the brake pedal, then reconnect the negative terminal. This method is fine if you want to wait around 15 minutes, and reset the clock, and the radio presets and settings. A simpler way is to pull the two fuses labeled "ECU" in the underhood fuse block. And the easiest way (after initial difficulty) is to hook up a switch;
ECU reset switch DIY Any more questions? Feel free to ask.
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elantragt |
688 |
14th February 2009 - 10:42 PM
Last post by: cclngthr |
Let's face it, the Elantra could always use a little more pep!
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oiml8 |
649 |
5th September 2006 - 06:48 AM
Last post by: oiml8 |
QUOTE
Well, I've done my first round of temp testing, and I'm amazed. Amazed and Appaled.
Test appartus. Fluke 54-2 Datalogging Thermometer. Test Probe #1. Stock airbox. Probe next to stock air temp sensor. Test Probe #2. Stock Intake manifold. Probe Inside runner #2. 1" Upstream from port. Probe .75" up from port floor. Probe surrounded by .5" of silocone to insulate probe from metal heat.
It was 60-61F the night of the test. Both probe's read this prior to starting. Probe #1 stayed at 60-61F at the start. Installing the intake manifold to a warm block warmed T2 up 10°F in the time it took us to install it and tighten up all bolts. Not good!
I don't have the "starting" datalogs, but I'll do another set. This datalog set is after driving for 5 miles, letting the engine sit for 8 minutes (off) then driving 5 miles home. (so these readings start "warm"
"max" airbox temp 104.3°F
"max" intake port temp 153.3°F
"max" temp difference 56.9°F
I'll post up the "text" of the datalogs tonight.
This is with at 100% BONE STOCK setup.
Stock airbox
stock resonator
stock TB WITH COOLANT HOSES
stock IM
What I learned....
#1. The intake ports get HOT QUICK, and it doesn't really cool down when you floor the engine
#2. The stock airbox heats up rather slowly, but once hot, doesn't cool down either.
#3. The "temp" at the airbox was easy to affect by doing high RPM (high air flow) driving, however cooler airbox temps didn't equal cooler port temps. SO the incoming air CAN quickly cool down the airbox and the stock IAT reading, but that reading doesn't translate to cooler air at the ports.
I don't know if this is the coolant hoses heating up the air, the stock IM transfering heat from the head, both, or neither. (could be radiant heat from the head/valve affecting the temp probe. I doubt it, but it's possible).
I'll have more photos and data graphs along with (hopefully) a new datalog that goes from 100% cold to 100% hot.
T1 T2 T2-T1
90.4°F 129.9°F 39.5°F
87.9°F 136.6°F 48.7°F
88.5°F 140.5°F 52.0°F
89.5°F 143.7°F 54.2°F
90.5°F 146.2°F 55.7°F
91.7°F 148.3°F 56.6°F
93°F 149.8°F 56.8°F
94.2°F 151.1°F 56.9°F
95.5°F 152.3°F 56.8°F
96.7°F 153.3°F 56.6°F
98.5°F 139.9°F 41.4°F
104.3°F 130.6°F 26.3°F
101.1°F 123.8°F 22.7°F
96.1°F 119.1°F 23.0°F
91.3°F 114.4°F 23.1°F
92.6°F 124.4°F 31.8°F
I'll be eventually removing the resonator and doing this again, also the stock airbox in favor of a CAI. I'll also be removing the coolant hoses and installing a Phenelic Spacer(I'll show folks how to make one) between the IM and the head, each step will be documented, and datalogged. This is just my "preleminary" data, and it was simply too shocking NOT to share.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Well, the stock airbox isn't really helping either. After just 20 minutes of running, the air in the airbox went from 54.5 to 82.7 F
I then let the car sit for 60 mintues (had to go into work) After "cooling" for an hour, the air box was 99.6F!!!!!!! (port temps were also sky high at 120.6F. This is on a 54 degree day with light rain!!!!!!
Can you imagine how bad it is going to be on a "hot" 100+ degree day?
Here are the latest numbers.
Port Temp...Air Box Temp.......Temp Increase.....Time Stamp
54.5...............54.5...............0.0...............3:17:28 PM
56.7...............56.9..............-0.2...............3:19:37 PM
60.9...............59.9...............1.0...............3:20:38 PM
60.9...............59.5...............1.4...............3:21:39 PM
61.0...............59.3...............1.7...............3:22:40 PM
69.6...............60.9...............8.7...............3:23:41 PM
74.1...............62.0..............12.1...............3:24:42 PM
81.3...............65.5..............15.8...............3:25:43 PM
82.9...............66.6..............16.3...............3:26:44 PM
82.7...............71.6..............11.1...............3:27:45 PM
88.1...............78.3...............9.8...............3:28:46 PM
83.6...............77.1...............6.5...............3:29:47 PM
87.0...............75.9..............11.1...............3:30:48 PM
86.8...............73.3..............13.5...............3:31:49 PM
96.7...............74.3..............22.4...............3:32:50 PM
99.5...............74.8..............24.7...............3:33:51 PM
106.6..............81.6..............25.0...............3:34:52 PM
104.7..............83.2..............21.5...............3:35:53 PM
119.8..............82.7..............37.1...............3:36:54 PM
120.6..............99.6..............21.0...............4:34:04 PM
116.4..............96.1..............20.3...............4:35:05 PM
114.9..............92.9..............22.0...............4:36:06 PM
112.3..............94.1..............18.2...............4:37:07 PM
109.2..............92.7..............16.5...............4:38:08 PM
104.0..............93.7..............10.3...............4:39:09 PM
103.6..............87.1..............16.5...............4:40:10 PM
107.0..............83.1..............23.9...............4:41:11 PM
111.1..............86.2..............24.9...............4:42:12 PM
113.7..............88.8..............24.9...............4:43:13 PM
112.8..............96.7..............16.1...............4:44:14 PM
114.1..............96.5..............17.6...............4:45:15 PM
130.3..............93.7..............36.6...............4:46:16 PM
129.3.............108.5..............20.8...............5:28:57 PM
117.1..............99.7..............17.4...............5:29:58 PM
122.4..............98.2..............24.2...............5:30:59 PM
122.3..............97.9..............24.4...............5:32:00 PM
123.1..............99.5..............23.6...............5:33:01 PM
123.6.............100.2..............23.4...............5:34:02 PM
115.9.............100.9..............15.0...............5:35:03 PM
123.9.............106.6..............17.3...............5:36:04 PM
125.7.............105.7..............20.0...............5:37:05 PM
116.3.............109.9...............6.4...............5:38:06 PM
116.5.............100.9..............15.6...............5:39:07 PM
103.4..............91.9..............11.5...............5:40:08 PM
100.8..............83.9..............16.9...............5:41:09 PM
90.1...............79.9..............10.2...............5:42:10 PM
96.1...............78.6..............17.5...............5:43:11 PM
102.7..............78.9..............23.8...............5:44:12 PM
106.3..............83.1..............23.2...............5:45:13 PM
125.6..............81.4..............44.2...............5:46:14 PM
129.7..............81.9..............47.8...............5:47:15 PM
132.9..............83.3..............49.6...............5:48:16 PM
119.3..............89.5..............29.8...............5:49:17 PM
109.9..............96.9..............13.0...............5:50:18 PM
114.1..............98.1..............16.0...............5:51:19 PM
116.2.............101.1..............15.1...............5:52:20 PM
122.8.............106.5..............16.3...............5:53:21 PM
135.8.............105.1..............30.7...............5:54:22 PM
140.1.............102.9..............37.2...............5:55:23 PM
Keep in mind, this is a 54 degree day. The air box/resonator gets darn hot and transfers a lot of that heat to the incoming air. I'm hoping a CAI keeps the intake air much cooler coming in, but We'll have to see if it works out that way.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Sorry, I should have explained. The "dips" in the port temps are due to WOT operation. If you notice, the airbox temps are fairly static, a slow steady rise. The port temp is very eratic, due to the close throttle/open throttle change of state.
And that is the last I ever heard. RDTiburon seems to be down right now. He may have posted more results over there.
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streetfighterguy |
76 |
Today, 07:01 PM
Last post by: Vex |
I was remembering one of those other threads where i saw silet mention a Remote turbo as an option for installation, Now i am again of a nature to where i don't mind going out on a limb and trying something like this.
If the turbo was installed in the trunk of the car then it would be a simple issue to run the tubing to the intake at the front. The only other thing would be installing the oil line and the water line for the turbo as well as a blow off valve in the trunk with a boost controller. I know a guy that can do this work too but i figure i would ask the crowd to see what you guys/girls think?
I threw in a pic since i have a clue to what i might do in the trunk if i ever get around to stuffing it into the car.
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streetfighterguy |
79 |
Today, 03:17 PM
Last post by: streetfighterguy |
So i am looking up under the driverside on my car and i think, "think" the ecu is bolted up on the underside of the dash below the gauges.
Slightly large metallic looking box with alot of wires plugged into one spot? I figured that it is the ECU but i want a second opinion before i pull it out to get the picture.
I need to get the picture of the ECU so i can Email it to PowerAxel so he can see what the Elantra has before he will say yes or no for the Reflash...
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117
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Adam Garcia |
2,848 |
4th September 2010 - 10:52 PM
Last post by: streetfighterguy |
Ok so I'm planning on building a Beta II in the not too distant future if everything goes as planned. I actually considered just building a Honda B18 (and I may still do that) but I really want to build a Beta II, of course it would have to be turbo to get anywhere near a big number. I know a few things about the Beta II but was wondering if anyone could help me with a few of my questions.
First off, The cylinder head on the Beta II doesn't allow for much adjustment. Does anyone know if the head off of another engine will fit the block?
Second, The oil pump from the Beta engine provided more oil flow. Does anyone know if the oil pump from the Beta will fit on the Beta II?
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JohnDoe641 |
1,955 |
4th September 2010 - 07:30 PM
Last post by: Vex |
http://www.flowmastermufflers.com/shop/ind...roducts_id=3434I had a 60 series on my old Accent and I thought it sounded great. It wasn't raspy, and it wasn't ricer at all, it gave the car a nice growl which made my friends think the dinky 1.6l engine was much more powerful than it really was.
I've been thinking about gas mileage and I'd like to get a bit more than I'm currently getting and I figure that an aftermarket muffler would be a good step towards that goal. Obviously the Elantra has a bit more power, so how will that affect the sound? My Accent was stock quiet at idle, but you could definitely tell it wasn't stock when I accelerated, I am hoping that it would be similar since the HD isn't some type of power house.
Another concern is how would it change the power band? I'd like to keep it the same or very similar if possible and I've been reading about how lack of back pressure can kill low end torque.
Also, I tried looking under the car to see the size of the muffler and I was rather surprised to see that the muffler wasn't at the rear of the car, but it's near the rear wheels. Alright so what exactly does that change? I took a look at the Flowmaster site and they didn't list the Elantra HD as a car that's compatible with the 60 Series so maybe it doesn't fit. :/
It looks like Vex was going to get the 60 Series with Part No: 952462 due to the offset. I'm assusuming this is 100% correct for my car, the correct in/out diameter and offset. Though I thought the Elantra HD was only 2" not 2.25". I wish he would have gotten it so I could hear what it sounds like on the HD or if there were any fitment problems.
Yeah, I know, it's a lot of questions but I'm just trying to cover my bases.
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Ernst Maurer |
367 |
2nd September 2010 - 07:19 PM
Last post by: Vex |
Hello
your opinion about heat insulation on the header:
I'm thinking to do the same for my header, but not sure....
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81
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fsv87 |
1,609 |
2nd September 2010 - 12:53 AM
Last post by: fsv87 |
So, I've got a P0422 code that's staring me in the face.
I have an appointment with Hyundai next week to see if there's a crack in the manifold, but I think the main cat took a dump. I'm really hoping there is a massive crack, but if there isn't then I have to go ahead and replace the exhaust manifold.
I can look at this as an opportunity to upgrade. I don't want to do a full on header and lose the cat and have to look at CEL, but there is something else I'm looking at, and I want some opinions.
http://www.autocom.com/prod_1969762.htmlI know there aren't many incredible gains to be had, but maybe it would afford me something over an OE manifold? Keep in mind the rest of my exhaust system is stock. I do have plans for a Borla muffler in the future.
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IRUN619 |
1,339 |
1st September 2010 - 10:50 AM
Last post by: NevynPA |
I'm posting this up there to tackle this issue for the HD's and put it to rest. I've spent most of the night reading thread after thread and it seems like there's no definitive answer. I'm looking for a cold air intake for my 2009 Elantra. I've seen people use universal cone to stock piping and even came across one guy on cardomain who hack saw'd and made his own intake actually looks pretty good too "
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2954845/2 ". But I'd like to try to avoid fabricating my own if possible (I have more trust in vehicle specific parts).
Does anyone have a decent aftermarket intake on thier HD or can someone tell me what will work without setting off the engine light?? Will an aftermarket intake from another car work (such as Tiburon, Accord, Civic, Corolla, Mazda 3 etc (2.0 or engines with about the same output and size and sensor placement))? Any feedback or pics of your setup would be greatly appreciated.
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Arthur |
1,157 |
26th August 2010 - 07:37 PM
Last post by: elantragt |
Okay Guys I finally bought my header. It is now in the mail being delivered as I write this thread. So I decited to go with an OBX header, It's brand New an never used at all. Well from what I understand, If I just bolt up the header I will get an CEL. Well I really dont want that. So Im in need of how to hook-up the header so I dont have the CEL. Also Im buying a Mid Cat if I cant use the second CAT that's allready on the car, I seen pic's of someone using there stock CAT, But I wannt get the full effect from this Header, so Im going to just buy a High Flow CAT to go with the Exhaust. Also Im buying New 2.5inch exhaust, Is that the size I want for best performace and sound, Im looking to have a good sounding car, Being it is an Automatic car,(Wish it was a 5 Speed). So I know i need to weild in a Bung hole for the 02 Sensor, What exhaust header pipe do I weild it in? How many inch'es down from the flange do i weild it on, Also do I use the bung hole thats allready on the New Header downpipe? I really just dont want to have a CEL. Also when it come's to doing anything to my cars', It has to be done right, an the best way possible, Or I will not be happy with it at all. So if someone could send me in the direction of where I can find how to do a Perfect Install Of The Header, That would be awesome. So far everyone who has helped me out, has steered me in the right direction, an I could not be any happyer with the results of everything that I have been told. Thanks Guys Very much, Awaiting soem responses form you guys.
Oh Ill post up the pic's of the header as soon as I get it in my Appartment. I can not wait, Im so excited for this build..
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Mosquito |
178 |
25th August 2010 - 03:42 AM
Last post by: Mosquito |
Hey guys, I was recently thinking of modding my elantra by pulling a couple hoses from the stock intake system so it can suck a bit more air, so naturally I ended up running into posts about SRI systems and it got me wondering, if an engine is sucking more air wouldn't it need to pump more fuel to compensate? or is it a simple matter of the engine is sucking less air(or the same amount) but more efficiently? I've seen a lot of people saying how a SRI would actually help with fuel economy but I just can't seem to wrap my head around this concept, can anyone educate this newbie please?
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27
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Arthur |
315 |
23rd August 2010 - 01:52 PM
Last post by: BNystrom |
Allright, well I have been web searching for days now an I noticed there is no way in hell Im going to be able to buy part's brand new, So Thats why Im posting this thread. I need help on gathering up part's for my build. Now I have found some good prices allready on differant website for new an used turbo parts. It seem's that Im looking at about 2,400 bucks for a mild build, Yes Im not boosting it so much that I blow it up, I just want to do a mild build an that's it. I just want to get in my car, start it up, An listen to my boosted engine warm up everyday befor I go out for a drive. The hole point of me building this Elantra for a turbo, I just want a Turbo'ed Elantra, I dont want it being all suped up an blowing it up everytime I get on it, I just want the car to look nice an sound great. So with that in mind Im not going all out. I just want it to be Turbo, an thats it. well so far I got a Head for it, Im not sure if im going to ge tit ported an polished yet, But I may just do it, So that way I know that is done an good to go. Now I went junk-yard searching the other day, Seeing there is about 10 junkyards local to me, I found about 7 turboed car's, Im thinking I may just get a turbo off one of them car's if the price it right, As soon a I do that, then Ill find a manifold that I can bolt the turbo to, Now I have a Mig Weilder an I can Weild, But My dad has been doing it his hole life so I will probley just have him make me the flange for the turbo kit, I allready told him about me doing this, An he's excited, an he knows nothing about turbo's or even car's in general. But he said he's down with doing what he can to help me out on the car, He thinks it's kinda stuped to do it to a 4 doored Hyundai Elantra, I told him that I want a sleeper.
Im not going to broadcast it to everyone that lives around me, because then they will want to be racing me all the time, Everyone around me has Turbo'ed Honda's an Talon's, an most of them are fast as shit. So with that being said, Im not trying to compete with them, I just want a Turbo'ed Elantra I can enjoy day after day. Back to the topic. So whoever read's this an wants to help out on this build, feel free to give any Idea's an parts that will help me out, Now Im not ganna rush this. It's ganna take me at least a year or longer to gather everything up. I have plenty of room upstairs to start building up my parts. I allready bought an engine stand for the block when I get it. I found a higher mileaged elantra at the junk-yard, the motor still run's but has a valve tapping pretty bad, But still runs good, So I have decited to go ahead an buy that motor for the build, Im not ganna just put a turbo on my Elantra's motor an be done, Im building one from scratch, That way when the time come's, I can drop the motor in, an take it to the Dyno shop about an hour away or so from my house. Well guy's this is it. I really hope that you guy's help me out on this, I'm looking to have fun doing this an to be relaxed while it's going on, I'm not a stressfull person, I'm very laided back an chill.
Now if anyone wants to share idea's on this Topic, then so be it, But please dont come into this thread judging what can an cant be done. This is a strickly go with it thread, I want everyone to chill out an help me out on this build, I dont want someone saying Negitive thing's on this thread, I'm doing this to make friend's an to make people realize that Turboing an Elantra can be fun, an not as exspensive as everyone thinks it is. Because it is not, Unless you rather just buy a Kit an spend the 4,000 or 5,000 on the kit, Well Im not, I'm building my kit from scratch, Im ganna make it work, I have a few friend's that drive Turbo'ed car's now an they allready said they are down with doing what they can to help out. They did say, you better be ready to fork out the cash for the right part's, Because if I dont get the right thing's then this whole build will be a waste of money an will end up an complete disaster. I dont want that. I want to just take my time, an get as much help as I can. Well guy's Im hoping I get some positive attitudes on this build. Im hoping when people get off work an where thinking of something that may be best, that they will get online an come explain it on this thread. If you dont have anything nice to say, then dont say anything at all. I want all positive people posting on this thread, I wanna see people trying to help me out as well as helping each other out on way's of doing thing's. I know I can do this, It has been done befor, an people had many good result's in Turboing there Hyundai.
I also sold my rim's that where on the car, I want to use that money to get a Trbo off one of the junk-yard car's I found. There is a Turbo'ed Eclipse that I think I should get ahold of, The car only has about 111,000 on it, But I didnt hear it run, So who knows if its worth getting the turbo off of, Remember tho, Im going with a MILD build, So I dont think a higher mileage turbo will be affected if Im just running a 5 or 8 pound boost from. Also I found a Turbo'ed Plymouth Lebaron, Now these have a smaller turbo on them, so I think I may also check it out as well. One thing that kinda pissed me off about the car's was when I asked about the Turbo's the owner said those turbo's are junk, I said you dont know that, did you hear them run, I also said All I have to do is put my finger on the intake spindle of the turbo to see if theres shaft play, he says thats not ganna work. Idk if the guy decides not to sell me the turbo I want, then I will just have to go to plan B, an go to another junkyard that has turbo'ed car's. But it seems hard to find them anymore, not sure why, I guess everyone is turboing there car's now adays an they all are bought up. Allright guys im hitting the sack. Im very excited to see how many people want to help pme on this build, an are excited to see outcome of the build. Now like I said, Im not rich, So it will take me some time to get this all done an put together, I do have 500buck's to start out on, So Im going to go with the basic's first. Also I need some kind of Engine Controler, Because everything I found dont work for Hyundai's, Not sure why there are non for Hyundai's, they should be built for Universal Car's. Ok later Guys
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26
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streetfighterguy |
680 |
21st August 2010 - 05:54 AM
Last post by: only1db |
Well just this week i started to get a tapping sound around 2500 rpm's when i would speed up or when i was underpower but as i would back off it would fade out to normal. So i started poking around the threads and came across two more with similar problems but those threads never gave an end result. So i did the next best thing, trouble shooting!
I changed the Oil, checked the valves, got new plugs, checked the wires, working on degunking the fuel system. But i took it to the hyundai dealership just to be safe or get a second opinion. After 6 hours and no phone call until i pestered them I finally got from them that i had a piston that was slapping...
After work i went to the dealership i paid the 100 dollars for the look and then he tells me that how they figured out that the piston is slapping was just thru sound. They drove it around the parking lot a few times, looked under the hood and maybe even took the valve cover off just to tell me they think there is a piston slapping around without being 100% positive.
They then give me the option to replace the motor for 3600 dollars because just changing the piston might not fix the problem!
I kinda laughed inside and politely said no and that i would take it to a tuner shop for some personalized work.
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14
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Ken45 |
209 |
20th August 2010 - 12:05 AM
Last post by: popeye |
Ok so the Elantra compression ratio is like 10:1 or something like that?
Just a stupid question? but what would happen if you put in higher
compression pistons? Besides your wallet getting thiner
Ken
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zielritter |
161 |
13th August 2010 - 06:50 PM
Last post by: sschung |
Hey, guys. I'm getting close to pulling the trigger on some sort of fuel tuner, and I feel like I've done a bit more research to determine what it is I do and do not need. I would really appreciate some input on the points below:
I am torn between the newer A'pexi SAFC units that allow you to tune the AFR at multiple rpm's and at different throttle levels, and the older, static models that only allow one (there is also the old-school 5-knob SAFC) map adjustment across the rpm band.
From what I can gather, it may be overkill for me to go with a newer unit like a NEO, Unichip, SMT6/8, AEM F/IC, etc as I am only modified lightly (i/h/e vs. a turbo, rebuild or engine swap). Would it be a waste to install and tune a $400-500 unit when I could get a steal on an older and/or albeit less flexible unit and get results that are only marginally different?
As far the older/less flexible units, I am looking at the A'Pexi 5-knob SAFC, 1-knob SAFC or even the HKS AFR (Type D pressure sensor compatible model).
I know there's a mouthful there, but I really do appreciate any constructive input.
Thanks!
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7
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Silentwolf |
216 |
9th August 2010 - 05:35 PM
Last post by: Vampyrate |
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10
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jayguy173 |
304 |
30th July 2010 - 10:27 PM
Last post by: sarge |
I have the second year for the 2.0 elantra and 150000miles on board still going strong.
Now the engine isnt going to last forever but when it does what are my options?
What engines are interchangible from kia and hyundai that will work in this car?
Are there any 2.4 versions that will work with just a computer and engine exchange?
Also they make a 6 speed for the newer ones it would be cool to have that even tho I have similer gear ratios in my 5 speed man close ratio.
I am curius if anyone has investigated this. I work in a shop and have more then one car so dropping an engine in a hyundai isnt that hard if there are interchangible ones.
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1
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Bassaddicted |
136 |
30th July 2010 - 11:39 AM
Last post by: Vampyrate |
Found a neat little website Displaying & showing which Cone air Filter Company is the cleanest it's not a BANG for the Buck thing pretty expensive Filter 80$+ on ebay for the APEXi Filter but ya i found it very interesting
http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/filters_test/2/Enjoy
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18
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Perry |
354 |
28th July 2010 - 09:43 PM
Last post by: a_v |
I have decided to get a intake for my car, i just don't know what i should get a short ram or a cold air, with cold air i've heard some really bad horror storys about hydro locking. I live in newfoundland and we are a all 4 seasons in one day type climate. i have a 2 picked out on ebay not really sure what';s good or not but it can't be that hard cause it's just like tubing and stuff.
short ram, this one comes with a k and n filter so it appeals to me because i heard those random blue and red ones really suck
http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewIt...e=STRK:MEWAX:ITcold air
http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewIt...e=STRK:MEWAX:IT
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8
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LIElantra |
269 |
27th July 2010 - 07:59 AM
Last post by: Bobzilla |
First off, i have a broken flexpipe behind my headers so i figured it was karma telling me that it was time for my exhaust upgrade. I wanna go from the headers back but i am not quite sure exactly what the set up is and what i will need. So far i am learning towards the EF headers and Cat back system, but i am unsure about the cats. here in new york we have emissions testing so i need to keep them. If i start headers will i need to replace the main cat and downstream cat or just the downstream cat.
Also is there any other aftermarket exhaust parts that would give me more bang for the buck, with me being a broke college student
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8
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Ernst Maurer |
233 |
25th July 2010 - 11:21 AM
Last post by: Ernst Maurer |
hi,
my aps sensor was detached after header installation and modifing ECU program.
serviceman told me that aps sensor is not required now, it's used to ensure that unburned fuel is not going from engine to cat. to prevent cat damage or even fire in cat.
in systems without cats, this sensor is not required.
your opinion?
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13
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Cujo |
551 |
15th July 2010 - 07:56 PM
Last post by: streetfighterguy |
i had an idea...... being the who problem with the HD is the damn ecu what if you swapped out the ecu from the HD with a ecu from a 2.0 Tibby?? in theory wouldn it work being the elantra ecu is tuned for economy and the tibby's is tuned for sportyness..... then you would be able to put in a CAI cause the ecu wouldnt need to be cooled by the intake anymore...... i dont care if i get ripped a new one for posting this it just seemed good in theory
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33
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ROB4223 |
1,589 |
15th July 2010 - 11:20 AM
Last post by: jamhandman |
Any one with a 07 try the cold air intake yet? I have one but are not sure if it is safe to install.Inside the intake box there is a radiator for some thing i believe is the ecu.the question beggs if I remove the box to install the cold air unit will the ecu over heat?Is the 07 the only model to have this issue?
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16
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mac |
438 |
12th July 2010 - 10:49 AM
Last post by: mtlelantra |
Since after market cold air intake sytems seem to be unavailabe for the "05 Elanta GT, has anyone made their own from parts?
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17
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zielritter |
409 |
11th July 2010 - 11:55 PM
Last post by: streetfighterguy |
I've installed the Maintec header on my i30cw, and have been experimenting with ways to keep the CEL off permanently. I think, after much trial and error, I've found the magic formula that doesn't involve relocating a cat, or extending your second O2 sensor cable to behind the secondary cat.
Using this device:
Vibrant o2 sensor sim (Vibrant 3 jet sensor simulator in case the link dies) in conjunction with the device:
Big Daddies mini cat has effectively kept my CEL off for several weeks now.
Install in this order Bung <-- Vibrant <-- Mini-Cat <-- O2 Sensor. Note: the mini-cat alone was not enough to keep my CEL off, so the extra space the Vibrant sim provides seems to be the key so feel free to experiment with other devices if you want.
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78
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Vex |
2,592 |
8th July 2010 - 02:35 PM
Last post by: Vex |
I have had this brand new Borla Muffler sitting in my closet for over a year now and would really like to put it to use. It didn't fit on the 06 elantra that wrecked, and I didn't want to sell it. I want to replace the stock muffler on my new car with the borla, but don't want to lose the gas mileage. I won't be replacing the piping at all, just the muffler. The borla is a center in-center out design that I got off a member way back (on ebay). I think it was wickednikki, or something. The borla is one of those free-flow mufflers with 2.5in and 2.5outlet, if that helps any.
I only have about 300 miles on the new car and would like it to "break in" with the new muffler. I will be driving to Ohio next week (480 mi trip one way) and want to run a gas mileage test on that trip. If it will DEcrease the gas mileage, then I will have to sell the muffler (again, would prefer not to get rid of). I don't see a problem with being that I am not changing any back pressures, really. Also, would I even notice a tone difference with that setup? Probably not unless I drive it hard/rough....Btw, what does "WOT" stand for? I've always wondered if it meant "wide-open-throttle"....
I had trouble finding topics/posts on exhaust issues/questions for the 07+ models. Feel free to post some links if you know of any that relate.
Thanks in advance!
Vex
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2
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XG0DZX |
173 |
7th July 2010 - 10:01 AM
Last post by: streetfighterguy |
Hi Guys,
How do you rate AEM ?
I have a complete new [alpine] Eaton M45 supercharger kit less the piggy back ecu that is designed to fit a DOHC Hyundai excel/accent and I'm getting it modified to fit a 2.0l DOHC Hyundai.1999 elantra.
So I need some sort of engine management preferably a piggyback type ecu ,It is not going to be a street/drag racer just want to do something a bit out of the square so I don't really want to go for a standalone system.
What do you guys recommend, I was looking at something like the AEM Plug & Play piggyback Fuel and Ignition Controller (F/IC) kit ? would this suit my application ?
http://www.aemelectronics.com/engine-manag...roller-f-ic-12/I have got a Unichip module thats mapped for a another vehicle but the authorized tuner doesn't want to use it rather try to sell a $3500 Motec standalone .
The engine management system also must be easily sourced and be tuned in Perth Western Australia...
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14
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Ernst Maurer |
471 |
6th July 2010 - 02:49 PM
Last post by: slowgls |
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Feb 26 2010, 08:17 AM
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