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Announcement: How to become an ElantraClub VIP |
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elantragt |
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Last post by: elantragt
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Bigs |
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6th September 2010 - 02:25 PM
Last post by: Rocket |
The kind people at Autogeek.net have agreed to offer our Club a 10% discount on most of their items available online. They are offering club members 10% off of all purchases except;*Coupon not valid on buffers, garage floor coverings, complete wash systems with dolly, and vacuums.
*Can not be used in conjunction with other discount offers. *Not applicable on previously placed orders.COUPON CODE:
ElantraClick the banner above to view their web site! Thanks to
Meghan@autogeek for setting this up for us!
Feel free to PM me if you have any questions or post them here.
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Bigs |
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5th September 2010 - 06:52 AM
Last post by: Rocket |
As I have noticed MANY topics on how to remove wax off trim, I decided to open a bran new one, PIN it and hopefully, people will see it at first glance!
The 70% Rubbing Alcohol with kitchen sponge with abrasive side method!This method I tested a few weeks back and it really works! You may alternate the kitchen sponge with a Mr Clean Magic Eraser.
Use the alcohol to drench the sponge. Rub the trim with the abrasive side. (You should start seing the wax come off and spread over) Wipe with the other side of the sponge (non-abrasive side OR use a damp cloth to wipe). Repeat the steps if required. Dress trim with your favorite dressing.
TIP: Don't hit the paint with the sponge!
The Mr Clean Magic Eraser method!Simple, use water and the eraser and go nuts. You may also use a detergent if it's tougher selants/waxes. Wipe with a damp cloth afterwards.
TIP: Don't hit the paint!
Poorboy's Trim Restorer and a good sponge!(not really a household product but...)
This used to be my own method prior to Alcohol... Same steps as above. The only issue, this is a restorer and will leave wet looking marks over your paint if you get some on. You can take those marks off with a good m/f towel.
This method takes a bit more time as it's a combo product. It dresses and restores trim but does take more elbow grease to obtain the results.
Forever Black is a product that some people have used with mixed emotions. I don't recommend spending the cash for this. Using the household products above and then dress the trim with a good dressing should be cheaper for ya!
Forever BlackNow, this is a thread on HOW TO REMOVE WAX from trim, not how to dress trim. So basically, Mother B2B doesn't work as it dresses trim only and does not remove wax, this goes for a ton of other dressing also.
I will keep adding to it as I find or test other ways/products.
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elantragt |
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9th January 2010 - 05:24 PM
Last post by: yamiguy472 |
Here's mine:
For washing the car:
Blue Coral Car Wash
Various Waxes:
3M Perfect-It Showcar Paste Wax
Zymol Cleaner Wax
Meguiar's NXT Tech Wax
Meguiars Cleaner Wax
Meguiar's Deep Crystal Carnuba Paste Wax
Mother's Carnuba Cleaner Wax
P21S Carnauba Wax
Poorboy's EX Sealant
For Quick Touch ups:
Meguiar's Quick Detailer
3M Perfect-It Gloss Enhancer
Mother's Showtime Instant Detailer
Polish
Meguiar's Deep Crystal Polish
For Claying:
Mother's California Gold Clay Bar
For Scratch Touch-ups:
Kit's Scratch Out
Meguiar's Scratch X
For the Tires:
Stoner's More Shine Less Time
For the Leather:
Klasse Leather Cleaner/Protectant
Pinnacle Leather Conditioner
For Interior Vinyl/Plastic:
303 Protectant
For the Glass:
Stoner's Invisible Glass
For Black Exterior Trim:
Black Again
Meguiar's Gold Class Trim Detailer
Stoner's Trim Shine
Mother's Back to Black
Bug & Tar Remover:
Blue Magic Tar & Bug Gel
For the Wheels
Castrol Super Clean All Wheel cleaner
Misc.
303 Wiper Blade Treatment
Small interior detail brush
Hand Held Euro-Vac
P21S Drying Towel
ArmorAll Wipes (don't use lol)
Various Microfiber towels... sponges, mitts, applicator pads, chamois, drying towels etc.
Elbow Grease
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Carbon08 |
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17th October 2008 - 10:37 AM
Last post by: Bigs |
The first thing I will recommend is that you wash your vehicle well in a shady or covered area! Use the two bucket method. One bucket with your car wash solution, the other bucket with just plain clean water. Use a genuine sheepskin or wool wash mitt and try not to use a sponge! Sponges trap dirt at the surface where as the wool mitts will hold the dirt up and out of the way!
So...rinse your mitt in the plain water bucket and squeeze the excess water out, now dip into your wash solution and wash a section of your car. Now dip your dirty wash mitt into the plain water to rinse the debris and then back into your wash solution! You get the drift of this by now I'm sure.
You do not need to dry as yet. Perhaps remove most of the standing water on the flat surfaces, but that's it for now.
After you have washed you can clay your car. I would suggest one of the two following kits that can be bought most anywhere automotive cleaning supplies are sold;
Mothers California Gold Clay Bar System - Comes with a Bottle Of Instant Detailer, A Yellow Clay Bar and a small bottle of Cleaner Wax.
Meguiar's Clay Bar Kit - Comes with a Bottle Of Quick Detailer and a White Clay Bar.
Have a few soft clean 100% cotton terry towels or micro fiber towels ready as well for wiping up.
In both cases the Instant or Quick Detailer will act as your lubricant for the clay bar! Clay is a soft mailable substance that will effectively and safely remove contamination such as rail dust, Industrial fallout etc. from your paint, glass, plastics etc. when used in a safe and as directed manner as below.
Here we go...
Break your clay bar into two equal pieces. This way if you drop a piece of clay you have another to use! If you drop the clay..THROW IT AWAY! Do not use it.
Mold the clay in your hand to soften it and then mold it flat but not too flat between your palms. Spray a section of your hood (let's say a 1/4 of the hood) liberally with the Instant Detailer. LUBRICATION IS THE KEY! Use plenty of lube. Now pass the clay over the lubricated section using linear (back to forth) motion and LIGHT pressure to begin. Use a little more pressure as you understand a feel the action of the clay bar. You will feel and possibly hear the contamination being pulled from your paint up into the clay. It will feel rough at first, DO NOT PANIC and then it will smooth right out! When the feeling goes smooth and the clay bar passes over the section with ease, it's safe to assume that that area in now clean of debris. Look at the clay...filthy right?? Good..it's working. Wipe that area dry and thoroughly with a quality micro fiber towel or a 100% cotton soft terry towel.
It can be a little messy and runny but it wipes up very easily and will not stain your car or trim etc. If you do a nice job wiping up, it will save you the extra effort of having to re-wash the car or re-do the whole car with just the instant detailer and clean towel again!
Now run your hand over that section..it should be as smooth as glass and very shiny just by virtue of clean paint.
Now..turn the dirty side of the clay over to expose a cleaner side of clay. Don't worry, the dirt will turn in and be suspended high enough in the clay to let you work safely.
Spray another section of the hood and follow the same routine as above. Again..I cannot stress the importance of LOTS OF LUBE! If the clay feels like it is sticking to the paint, then you need more lubrication. After each area is complete, wipe it dry. You can do the same for your windows as well and even your trim.
I would suggest you do the whole car this time around! This way you have totally clean paint and a fresh "canvas". If you feel your clay is getting too dirty to use, then use the 2nd half that you broke off and set aside! My experience tells me that you should get by doing the whole car with 1/2 a bar, but use your good common sense and switch to a clean piece if you feel the need.
And YES..it might sound as though you are scratching your paint with the clay bar, but I say again..that with lots of lube and even pressure you will not be at risk.
Now...stand back and marvel at the results you just achieved with a simple piece of clay! You will probably not even feel the need to wax the car because the instant detailer will leave a great shine providing you did a nice job of wiping up after yourself. But you will wax...because I said so....lol
From this point on, you can follow up with the wax of your choice if you wish! Keep in mind that a clay bar will have removed any wax you had on your paint as well!
You do not need to clay every time you clean your car! I would think that once a year is fine.
Geez...have I forgotten anything??? I don't think so! If you have any questions ask away! I would be more than happy to help!
Have Fun
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Bigs |
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16th April 2007 - 10:47 AM
Last post by: Bigs |
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Carbon08 |
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14th March 2007 - 05:59 PM
Last post by: Bigs |
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Bigs |
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11th July 2006 - 01:14 PM
Last post by: Bigs |
I have a lot of paint chips on my hood and they are getting annoying. I'm sure some are wondering the best way to fix them. I wanted to start a thread with links on how to repair them easily.
This topic has been covered here also:
http://www.elantraclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=1119Richard (F1Guy) recommended a few products that would help such as Mother's Paint Repair Kit and Langka Paint repair kit. The Langka kit is used in the below link from Detail City.
Here is an example of a repair done by a guy at DetailCity.com
Product Tested @ DetailCity.comWhere can you buy this?I would first check with your local car part store. If not, it's available online!
Langka.comSuperior Car CarePremiumAutoCare.comI would recommend the Langka kit as the instructions are clear and to the point! They give good tips on how to use the product on the Langka website. But what you really need when using these kits is PATIENCE!
Also remember, the kits that are mentioned here are used when touch up is applied. If you have a minor scratch (surface scratch in clearcoat), this can be easily fixed using a coumpoud like Meguiars Scratch-X or Poorboy's SSR's. Better results when applying them with a ROB. (Random Orbital Buffer)
I will keep searching and will add more links to this page. If you have any to share, send me a PM and I will add them here!
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Bigs |
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11th May 2006 - 08:12 AM
Last post by: mregt02 |
QUOTE (Mia_D @ May 10 2006, 11:22 PM)
Please read this andit should help you tremendously. from a previous thread by applies so aptly here.....
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OK...You have decided on a Product....Without technique you may be very disappointed. So....here is my only suggestion......Please study this article.....Use the PlastX with the same technique.....In lieu of the foam applicator pad....I would use high grade brand of 100% cotton towels....Not Cheapos! Roll a smaller towel up very tight....now roll the towel you intend to put the product on around the smaller "inside" towel.....You now have some density to your towel.....Put on the chemical and begin rubbing in small tight motions....I would rub against the grain of the scratches.....Rub linearly...up/down, left to right, right to left, also same motions on a diagonal....by doing this you assure full coverage to the scratches and the lens.
Using Scratch X by HandHere is the LINK i was looking for earlier! Please read this as well......Remove swirls by Hand
Do not give up.....Repeat the process.....When to add more chemical.....well....it will blend in after a while.....use your eyes and "feel" before stopping.....by using a bit of PASSION and your arms legs and shoulders....rub and you will be generating a surprising amount of heat from your cotton towel. Cotton has a bit more bit and will generate more heat by hand than a foam applicator.
Keep repeating until you are satisfied.....One or two passes may not make a dent....do not give up....actually as you take scratches off initially it may look worse due to a strange fact. As you take off the smaller scratches the larger deeper ones remain....you now have to repeat the process until satisfied.....
Also - go into this with realistic expectations....PICS would help so much in assisting you. however.....take your fingernail and run it across the scratches.....does it "fall" into any areas? these places may not see the removal as you may like as they are very deep.......you must be careful with deep scratches if you were using a rotary because it could burn the film layer right off the plastic if the scratch was to deep.
Good Luck....READ!!!! before you work up a sweat.....it will benefit your results.
so many times people ask "what's best product"....but in actuality the TECHNIQUE is so much more inportant than the chemical....add a good chemical with great technique and you can make some $$~~~~~
_____________________
Back....
Unless you have experience on a Rotary you may be creating much more damage than taking out your swirls. Also you must watch for high points due to these areas having less paint. Well actually they are weaker areas and the paint is more fragile here than on the flat surfaces of the hood. Most experienced detailers do not take their DA above 1500 unless there is a specific purpose. Judging by your question regarding 3000 rpm I gather you may not have any experience. You must be knowledgeable about paint, the correct pads, and chemicals to use......Please reconsider if you have not purchased already. If you have I suggest getting a hood from the salvage yard and Practice, Practice, Practice......It is not rocket science and you will get the feel.....but getting the feel on your vehicle with no experience would not be adviseable.......
you can burn through the paint within a second without knowing what you are doing. you can rid your car's surface of swirls by polishing and using excellent technique. This comes with experience.
I have hand detailed cars using the methods of Mike Phillips at Meguiar's. It works. He is a master detailer and remember to use enough product nad a bit of PASSION!
Old Skool out.......
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Paul, you had specified Wills but it's Mike that was looking for a rotary! Thanks for the info!
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Bigs |
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24th April 2006 - 11:14 AM
Last post by: Bigs |
Detailing Acronyms
303 – 303 Aerospace Protectant
7424 – Porter Cable Dual Action Polisher Model 7424
AA – Armor All
AIO – Klasse All-In-One
APC – All Purpose Cleaner (generic term)
BnB – Poorboy’s Bold N Bright Tire Dressing
CB – Clay Bar
CCD – California Car Duster
CWB – California Water Blade
DA - Dual Action (like the PC7424 is a DA polisher)
DACP – Meguiars Dual Action Cleaner/Polish
EO - Eagle One Car Care Products
EX - Poorboy's EX Sealant (Carnauba based)
EXP - Poorboy's EX Pure Sealant (synthetic)
GC - Meguiars Gold Class Wax
IG - Stoner Ivisible Glass
LC – Lake Country (pad manufacturer)
LS – Poorboy’s Leather Stuff
LSP – Last Step Product
MCAD - Mr Clean Auto Dry system
MF – Microfiber or Microfiber Towel
MGC - Meguiars Gold Class Wax (also GC)
NXT - Meguairs NXT Tech Wax
OB – Orbital Buffer
P21S – P21S Crnauba Wax
PB – Poorboy’s Product Line
PC – Porter Cable Polishers/Buffers
PwC – Poorboy’s Polish with Carnauba
PwS – Poorboy’s Polish with Sealant
QD – Quick Detailer
QD+ - Poorboy’s Quick Detailer Plus
QW+ - Poorboy's Quick Wax + (Used to be QD+)
RB – Rotary Buffer
ROB – Random Orbital Buffer
SG or S&G – Poorboy’s Spray & Gloss
SW or S&W – Poorboy’s Spray & Wipe
S100 – S100 Carnauba Wax
SG – Klasse Sealant Glaze
SS&S – Poorboy’s Super Slick & Suds Car Wash
SSR – Poorboy’s Super Swirl Removers
SSR1 - Poorboy’s Super Swirl Removers Light
SSR2 - Poorboy’s Super Swirl Removers Medium
SSR2.5 - Poorboy’s Super Swirl Removers Medium
SSR3 - Poorboy’s Super Swirl Removers H/D Compound
SW – Spray Wax
TR - Poorboy's Trim Restorer
TW – Turtle Wax
WG - Wolfgang Car Care Products
WOWO - Wipe On, Wipe Off
WM - Wash Mitt
WW - Waffle Weave Towel
Zaino - Zaino Car Care Products
Z7 - Zaino Car Wash
Send me a PM if you have one you want something added!
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elantragt |
5,425 |
11th April 2006 - 10:04 PM
Last post by: Goldenguy |
Let's post a list here of our detailing routines (products, techniques and frequency) as a reference for newbies and other members alike!
I'll start:
I try to wash my car about once every 10 days, if possible. I use Blue Coral Car Wash liquid I purchased at Walmart, nothing fancy but it seems to work. I spray the tires with Stoner's "More Shine, Less Time" every wash. I do my windows and all glass with Stoner's about once a month. The black trim get's a coat of lotion (either Meguiar's or Mother's mostly) once a month. The interior gets the 303 treatment about once every month or so. I try to regularly "shake out" the mats so dirt doesn't get ground in.... and vacuum monthly. I use Klasse or Pinnacle leather conditioner about 3 times a year.
As far as waxing goes, I use several products...Meguiars NXT, 3M Perfect-IT, P21S. I love the Poorboy's sealant. Basically I try to keep several coats of wax on my car at all times. This means waxing fairly often... no more than two months between coats.
I also clay on occasion (Mother's California system) but only 3 times in two and a half years so far.
The results have been very satisfying.... and it really isn't all that much work.
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Bigs |
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18th January 2006 - 08:32 AM
Last post by: Bigs |
UPDATED info from Paul! Thanks Mang!
Glaze, Carnuba, Sealant
Body shops, Detailers and Enthusiasts could be another name for this post since the definition of these products tend to be used to mean different things. Especially in the body shop mode. Actually in terms of detailing, these three products are very different and are used to achieve not only a varied look but are much different in their function.
Glaze ~ is a oil based product such as 3M IHG and Meguiars #7. They merely fill mild scratches and swirls and add a tremendous amount of DEPTH! to the paint. They do eliminate the marks. Consider this product the"cosmetics" of paint. Administer your coat using a circular motion as you really want to "push" the product into those small ridges of existing scratches and swirls. After you glaze your car, it is like putting on a pair of 3D glasses when observing the final results~~DEPTH!, DEEP DEPTH! However, glazes tend to be rather volitile, in that they will simply evaporate quickly if not sealed. Many cars at shows are quickly given a glaze application before entry to get that last BLING! It could last hours or max a day without being sealed bycarnuubauba. Essentially no protection is given by the glaze. It's use is purely for vanity......There is no protection involved with the use of a glaze. If you wish to add DEPTH! use a glaze.
There is something unique about them as well......the term "skinning" comes to mind.
3M's IHG and Meguiars #7 are oil based glazes and will fill the scratches but not remove them. Glazes in general are a tricky product to use. They have a tendency to "skin" in the removal process. As explained to me by Mike Phillips of Meguiars, think of a bowl of pudding ~ you can take that top layer off, then later it will reappear. Glazes are like this as well. When taking off what you have laid down, take off one layer, another layer of haze will reappear, take that off, then gradually you have taken off the hazing glaze. try not to take all the layers off at once, it will only frustrate you more and possible create some added swirls or scratches sue to the force being administered to the paint, especially black paint.
***UPDATE*** There are new Glazes using an Acrylic Polymer Resin, manufactured by Chemical Guys and they are easy on / easy off. It is a liquid and the application is like a very creamy liquid wax. No hasslel product. It leaves the car looking like an oil based product without the time or effort. There is no "skinning" by product. As a result No HAZING with this product........It really is a beautiful thing.
Carnauba ~ A wax's primary responsibility is to add protection to your vehicle. That is whacarnauba's's function really is. Now there are various formula's some are seemingly more reflective(maybe a clearer form of carnauba(less yellow) and other's seemingly add depth and color to the vehicle. It is also used to seal your polishing and glaze, if used. Eventhough after a wax the car seems to shine, it is really the prep work which the carnauba accentuates that we really see. How long will a carnauba last? Depends on which one you use and even then it is very debatable. Some mention that they lost the "beading action" after four weeks. Well beading occurs only because of surface tension/friction and nothing more. It may or may not be an indicator of the durability of the carnauba. Not to cross lines but I will mention here, there are some synthetic formulated Sealants which are designed to sheet the water and not create any surface tension. So after the first rain do not think it isn't protecting. Carnauba's tend to give a very Warm, enriching glow to the automobile. A deeper, warm shine.
Sealants ~ Many types and varieties. Some very synthetic, others based with carnauba. The most important thing here is a sealant meant to give the longest protection of any LSP product. The wrap on synthetics, if you will, is that they tend to be somewhat cold in appearencee. Similar to a "plastic" being wrapped around the car. Now, many new products have come out using new technologies combining many chemical reaction and these sealants are looking dramatically warm and carnauba like with the added benefit of extended protection. Again as mentioned, some bead water, some do not....so don't be fooleded.....beading water is merely caused by surface friction.
Hopefully this will assist you in your search for the most desireable method. In searching some have found toping sealants with carnuba's to invite interesting possibilities. Again, any more than two to three layers (max) of any product seems to begin reaching a diminished returns on the final result. Two layers sometimes would be valuable purely from a coverage standpoint. Making sure all the areas are fully filled.
I will recommend a few popular combos, then it's for you to decide!
#1 - Klasse All-In-One with P21S
Klasse AIO is a fantastic synthetic product that does everything. Clean, Protects and Polishes. AIO brings out exceptional depth like I have never seen. P21S is carnaubaba wax that will bring out the shine like no other wax. (except Pinnacle but that's over $90 a jar!)
For absolutely fantastic results, I would add 1 coat of AIO (2 if surface is in really bad shape) and 2 of P21S. Keep in mind the P21S will not last long but the AIO is there to protect for 6 months. But P21S is the easier wax that you will ever apply and remove!
#2 - Klasse All-In-One with Poorboys EX Sealant with Carnauba
This is also a combo that is hard to beat. I would say it's very very close to the above selection. EX Sealant is a little harder to apply and remove. It's recommended to let EX Sealant sit for a good 30 minutes. Poorboy's products can also be applied in the sun (with reduced quality IMO). Again, I would add a few layers of each! Also, Poorboy's EX-P Sealant is also available but has no carnauba and gives the same result!
#3 - Klasse All-In-One with Klasse Sealant Glaze
This is a combo that is sure to protect your surface! The SG is harder to work with and have the option of applying and removing right away. The company recommends to let it set on the car for at least 30 minutes or even longer. This combo also give great results and will protect for at least 6 months. This combo is great for light colours!
#4 - Meguiars NXT
This is IMO the best one coat product available in retail stores. It's easy to use and gives great results! Brings out the depth and shine while giving great protection. I also recommend the paste wax over liquid. Personally, I would add a coat of AIO before adding this product!
Again, these are products I recommend. There are tons of great products out there to satisfy the detailer in you! Most products listed above are only available in specialty shops or online.
Proper paint preparationn is also required toachievee great results.
Sorry that was long!
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Rocket |
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11 minutes ago
Last post by: sarge |
Hi everyone, New to this Forum and proud owner of a recently repaired Insurance Write Off.
The car is a 2006 XD Elantra 2.0 HVT Auto. Bought it from the "Hail Damaged "car Auctions.
Not sure how to post photos here so i will attempt to just use my photobucket. Here is the car being repaired -
Just after painting it -
During the week we had the car inspected at our Motor Registration Department and it was passed and Registered.
Now it sits in my garage and i will begin to Detail it properly over the next couple of weeks. First job will be a polish using the Flex Polishing Machine together with Lake Country CCS Pads and Menzerna polishes. Then i will seal the paint with ChemicalGuys Jetseal 109, followed by a wax with Wolfgang Fuzion. The new paint should have a nice shine by the time it is finished.
Thought i might photograph the different processes as it is done over the next couple of weeks and post the photos on this Thread if anybody is interested. I am not a detailing professional - just a weekend enthusiast.
This is the first Elantra that i have owned and really enjoying it so far.
Look forward to meeting you all via the keyboard and hope to post here regularly.
Rocket.
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Bigs |
1,501 |
Yesterday, 10:19 PM
Last post by: slowgls |
2010 Best Detailed Contest! OK I have decided to make it exactly the same as last year! If you want to be in, please PM me with "I'm In!".
Please read the instructions carefully!Between now and the end of September, I'll be accepting entries for this year's Best Detailed contest! If you want to enter the contest, please PM me with "I'm In!". Send me a PM if you do not show up on the list below (allow a few days for you name to be added!!)
Again, I will limit to
Exterior Detailing only! No excuses not to enter! You may enter a
Non-Hyundai vehicle if you wish! The vehicle has to be detailed by
YOU only. One entry per participant.
Each entry must contain: - Two full body exterior shots of your car (full resolution please!)
- A list of the detailing products used and steps you took to achieve the results
All entries need to be mailed to:
mbigs73@gmail.com LAST DAY TO SEND PICTURES IS: September 30th In October, I will create a vote poll so everyone can cast their vote!
I have prizes again this year but I'm still unsure how I will distribute them!! Perhaps one for Dark and one for Light colored vehicles! Stay posted for details!
So get off your behinds and start detailing!
Good Luck!
CURRENT PARTICIPANTS:
Sarge
milehighhyundai (pictures submitted)02elantragt
Alex2004GT
only1db (pictures submitted)
johnshkim
slowgls
Karrde
a v (pictures submitted)DoohickieTOTAL: 10
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Rocket |
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6th September 2010 - 12:58 PM
Last post by: popeye |
Last year i was determined to find out which Wax was going to be the best to keep our Mustangs looking great and to protect the paint.
If you read the Manufacturers blurb, they all claim to be the best. It can become very confusing trying to sort one from the other. So i conducted my own test and came to the conclusion that it really does not make a big difference which wax you use if your paintwork has been buffed to a nice shine beforehand.
There were however some big differences in the application and removal of the waxes. Some were difficult to wipe off, others would smear and some left ugly traces behind in body seams.
The best bang for your buck wax i came across in the fifty diffent waxes that i tested was DP Max Wax. This wax only costs about $40! The price range of the waxes i tested were between $10 and $250.
DP Max Wax was extremely easy to apply and remove, left no traces behind and left a brilliant shine. Think it is sold by Autogeek in the USA.
Here is a Link to a Thread on an Aussie Detailing site about this test
http://www.detailparadise.com.au/modules.p...asc&start=0Since that test i have become an avid fan of Sealants. Have read many good reports about Klasse and also Wolfgang Sealants. I have not tried them, but have used Chemicalguys Jetseal109 many times and am very impressed with the brilliant shine that is achieved after a few layers have been applied.
But when it comes to car detailing, there are many differing opinions about which is best.
Which is your favourite Wax/Sealant? And why?
Rocket.
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mundayoreo |
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4th September 2010 - 10:53 AM
Last post by: Bigs |
What brand of car wash do you use? Have you ever used dishsoap ?
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walkerman5000 |
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3rd September 2010 - 04:44 PM
Last post by: x3ro |
I saw a video on youtube of a guy using toothpaste and a polisher to restore headlight lenses. I did pretty much what the guy in the youtube video did. I used a mixture of 1 tablespoon plain Aquafresh, 2 tbsp baking soda, 2 tbsp peroxide. This was enough to do one headlight. I applied the mixture and buffed it off 3 times on each lens. Here are the results. .........................^before.............................................after^ ..................before^............................after^
Not perfect, but a whole lot better and pretty cheap.
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MEly |
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17th August 2010 - 10:29 AM
Last post by: Bigs |
Last night I was at my parents house and my car managed to get barraged with bird droppings. Typically I would rush out to the car wash, but with money being tight and me needing a day of downtime (ie. not leaving the house except to take the dog for a walk), I needed a new option.
I did some searching on the internet and found the following concoction:
1/4 cup of white vinegar
1/4 cup of water
1 tsp of dish soap
Mix the ingredients very well then apply liberally to the stain. Wipe clean.
I was AMAZED that this worked perfectly. This is the first solution that entirely ate away at the bird droppings. I was a bit concerned about putting vinegar AND dish soap on my car, but I read some reviews and everyone thought it was a great mixture where all the ingredients offset the risks of one another.
All in all, I'd STRONGLY suggest this if you're time limited and can't wash your entire car.
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TJVJR |
1,284 |
24th July 2010 - 08:03 PM
Last post by: TooWildToTame |
what polish/wax have you found lasts the longest?
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only1db |
719 |
17th June 2010 - 08:13 PM
Last post by: only1db |
first i washed it with the help of my 5 y/o (he mostly just sprayed the car off and ME!) meguiars soap (tried doing the wheels with the meguiars spray stuff...eh), then dried with shammy, (no clay this time) meguiars gold class wax. then i did the inside with meguiars interior stuff (the new UV stuff they just came out with) and vacuum.
let me know what ya think. i was hoping to get my windows tinted before i entered the contest but i guess this will do.
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only1db |
754 |
6th June 2010 - 09:35 PM
Last post by: sarge |
like i reads...i usually do it with a washrag and a bucket, but is there an easier way? a spray or foam or something! the tib wheels have a bunch of little places that if you dont get them it looks like crap!
oh and tires...i use eagle one tire stuff, but it lasts for like 1hour and its done.
help!
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Elantrababe |
769 |
21st May 2010 - 09:15 PM
Last post by: popeye |
It's more then just the every year clean. I don't think I did anything special last year except wash my Elantra once or twice. I think she shines very well for being now 5 years ode.
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Bigs |
2,289 |
9th May 2010 - 10:44 AM
Last post by: 02elantragt |
OK just checking if it's worth making another contest. Most people that said yes last year bailed out. Even though you detailed your ride in March and you took pics, you can still join. Sorry, last year pics do not count!
Oh and again this year, I will have prizes!
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only1db |
803 |
29th April 2010 - 08:17 AM
Last post by: only1db |
came out pretty good whatcha think? just a clean rag, mequiars compound, mequiars plastix wax and some elbow grease!
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JedimanGLS |
2,364 |
22nd April 2010 - 06:50 AM
Last post by: Bigs |
What the topic says.
Never clear coated it...some is oem pen some is duplicolor....
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Bigs |
844 |
9th April 2010 - 08:54 AM
Last post by: Bigs |
Bissell Auto Care ProHeat®Posted in the Reviews Section!Not anywhere near a professional grade extractor but it freakin' works well! You just need a few more passes to extract the extra water... Did a fantastic job on my mats and carpeting! The salt and calcium is ALL gone!
BTW, it's on sale at Canadian Tire for $99.99CAD!
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a_v |
3,094 |
9th April 2010 - 05:48 AM
Last post by: a_v |
Hi all
Until now I've used a waterless wash and wax spray to keep my car looking sharp. I'm hapy with the results given the time and effort it takes, but I want to try using a proper polish and wax. I have a combination product and just need some clarification on a few things. First, the instructions say to apply a small amount and cover a small area at a time. How much is a small amount exactly? How much should I cover in one go? Also, it says to wait for it to dry to a white haze. How long should this take, and will I see it on my white car?
Thanks for any input.
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av8989 |
2,583 |
30th March 2010 - 08:25 AM
Last post by: av8989 |
After last weekends heavy rainstorms and hi winds, my passenger's side headlamp developed moisture and fogginess. A week prior I installed an HID kit which required for me to drill a 1" hole in the back of the dustcap. Well I dried out the headlight and the next morning there was moisture again same amount. I am at a loss as to what to do. I ordered an extra set of dustcaps in case I want to revert back to stock and maybe take the car back to the dealer for a replacement. Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!! BTW the lights work great...
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gpagpa |
1,035 |
27th March 2010 - 09:21 PM
Last post by: Alex2004GT |
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Bigs |
880 |
27th March 2010 - 09:18 PM
Last post by: Alex2004GT |
Guys and Gals...
I need supplies and I'm sure some of you also do need some. I have been able in the past to obtain a discount from e-Shine for supplies. Let me know if you are interested.
Right now just want to see if it would be worth it. Usually, it's 15% discount for a total order of $500... I will have to send Chris an email...
e-Shine Website People around Canada's Capital region (Ottawa if you didn;t know!), you could also be in with me if we don't get enough people. If we order over $150, we pay no shipping. So I would order the supplies and we could meet for you to pick them up. Let me know for this also.
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Bigs |
751 |
26th March 2010 - 07:14 AM
Last post by: Bigs |
QUOTE (Bigs @ Oct 25 2006, 12:45 PM)
The kind people at
Autogeek.net have agreed to offer our Club a
10% discount on most of their items available online.
They are offering club members
10% off of all purchases
except;
*Coupon not valid on buffers, garage floor coverings, complete wash systems with dolly, and vacuums.
*Can not be used in conjunction with other discount offers. *Not applicable on previously placed orders.Check out their 2 for 1 page also! Some great deals on that!
The whole site is worth looking at especially for the 10% discount!
Original Post is here:
Autogeek Discount (pinned topics)
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