This was talked about in the old forum. My wifes car got the treatment before mine. The process and products are as follows.
1. Quick detailer
2. Claybar
3. P21s Paintwork Cleanser
4. Meguiars NXT
Now I just need to find the time to do the rest of the car and then mine.

I have used Rain-X for quite a few years. It does an excellent job of beading up the water so it doesn't stay on the windshield. Some waxes and polished I have tried for paint do not work as well, but is an alternative.

Here are some avi videos that I hard recorded some months ago. Might be a little hard to appreciate what it does.

Leaving home at about 35 mph.
Going about 55mph.
At a red light and the first wipe of the drive! Ok, so it isn't pouring, but it worked so well that I really didn't need to use the wiper.
60+mph

I think I decided to use the wipers because my kids were in the car.

The files are about 400K each.

All I can say is wow! I've used quite a few carnauba waxes in my time but this one is the best. As far as shine goes, it's very comparable to Meguiar's NXT or 3M's Perfect-it Show Car paste wax ...maybe a tad more lustrous.. but... no wax I've ever used goes on or comes off easier. It's a fantastic product.

What's interesting is that, although it is a paste wax it's much "softer" than a typical carnauba and it glides over the surface smoothly and will allow you to wax in record time. Removing it is also a non-effort affair.

If there's a negative it's cost... at $30 it isn't cheap but it will be money well spent if you're looking for ease of use & terrific results.

Definitely a must have in your detailing kit.

Sunny and 40. That's good enough. Wash and wax time.

Has anyone found a grit guard like this available locally?

The only one I have seen is in an unusually short square type bucket, I believe by Black Magic at Walmart.

I think someone at the old forum talked about using a waffle weave drying cloth instead of a chamois after washing their car. If this is right could you tell me where to find one. I can't find it at local car stores. I checked at Goodspeedmotoring.com but they only had MF cloths and synthetic chamois.

Just curious about something. since most alloy wheels are clearcoated, does it make sense to apply things like sealants and such just like you would on the paint? Would it give a measure of protection from road salts used in wintertime?

Found this interesting tidbit in the owners section of Hyundai USA's website... what do you think?

"The goal in cleaning and detailing is to make your car look as good as when it was brand new. The subtle touches are what make the difference between a car that simply looks nice and one that makes you say, "Wow!" To that end, here are professional tips the do-it-yourselfer can use to achieve a pro-quality detailing job on your own car.

Washing Your Elantra


To keep your car's finish looking new, you should wash it at least once a week, especially in major metropolitan areas where there is a lot of pollution in the air. If at all possible, park your car in a shaded location before getting started. Washing your car in the sun can cause some surfaces to dry faster than you may want them to, leaving residue and unwanted streaks. The beads of water also act as mini magnifying glasses and can make the sunrays more harmful.



It is important to only use a mild, non-sulfate soap made especially for cars. Do not use dish soap or other detergents, as these can strip the wax and damage your paint. Start with a clean wash mitt and never reuse it if you drop it on the ground - it can easily pick up small bits of dirt that will scratch your paint. It is recommended that you use one mitt for the top half of your car and a second clean mitt for the bottom half of your car.

Basic guidelines to bear in mind:


First rinse the entire car with water to remove loose dirt and cool the surface.


Wash and rinse one section at a time-working from top to bottom-to prevent a section from drying too quickly and leaving deposits or residue. Don't forget to use different mitts for the top and bottom half of your car.



Rub the car surface gently to loosen dirt, using plenty of soap and water. Aggressive rubbing can grind dirt right into the finish, leaving scratches and swirls. Car soap is designed to lift the dirt and float it away - the more bubbles you see, the better.



Be sure to rinse the wash mitt often to prevent accumulated dirt from scratching the paint. Wash mitts are designed to lift the dirt from the surface and hold it so that it cannot scratch the surface.



Use plenty of rinse water to carry away the dirt and soap.


Never reuse a mitt that you have dropped.


To remove dead insects or tree sap, use a quality "liquid tree sap remover" available at your Hyundai dealer. Never use gasoline, solvents, paint thinner, or other strong cleaners, as they can discolor and damage the paint.



To remove pooled water from inside an enclosed mirror, slam the door a couple of times to shake loose as much as possible. Then wrap a terry cloth towel around a credit card and slide it into the housing under the mirror to absorb any remaining moisture.



After the final rinse, wipe the excess water from the vehicle surface to prevent water spotting. A soft terry cloth towel or a high-quality chamois are recommended. Keep the towel or chamois clean to help prevent scratching, and wipe the vehicle lightly to soak up water without abrading the surface.



If you live in a climate where sand or salt is used on the road surface, be sure to rinse inside the wheel wells, paying special attention to the lower part of the fender where salt and sand may have accumulated. You might want to take a trip to a self-service car wash and use the high-pressure hose for this extra step.

Waxing/Polishing Your Elantra

The finish of your car should be waxed at least once every three months and polished twice a year. In the winter, you can give your finish extra protection with carnauba wax, by applying one coat; then when the first coat is as hard as possible, apply the second coat.

Waxing should be done with a dry sponge applicator pad. If the pad is damp, it's possible to trap moisture between the wax and the paint surface. When waxing paint, the best depth and sheen (especially on dark finishes) can be obtained through a show car technique called a triple coat. Here, the first coat is applied in a horizontal motion. The second coat is then applied in a vertical motion. Finally, a third coat is applied diagonally to the first two.



The best choice for applying polish is with an all-cotton diaper or tight-weave T-shirt. Also acceptable, but less preferable because of its rougher surface, is a terrycloth towel. Apply the polish to the cloth, not directly to the paint. Work the polish in a linear fashion, such as front-to-rear or side-to-side; this way, any fine swirl marks that are left behind will be less noticeable. If desired, cross-polish the surface by going over it a second time in the direction opposite to the first pass.



Keep extra towels, sponges, and foam applicators handy because, should you drop one on the ground, you don't want to continue using it. Even if you can't see the dirt it's picked up, it's not worth the possibility of a single grain of sand gouging a deep scratch into your paint. In fact, it's a good idea to hose down the concrete around the vehicle before you start working on the surrounding paint. Another tip is to treat the trim first with an oil-based rubber/vinyl dressing. The residual oil from this treatment will make it easier to get any polish or wax off later.



To get wax or polish out from under trim, slide the edge of a towel along under the trip piece. If you need to go in deeper, try wrapping a cloth around the edge of a credit card.

Cleaning your Elantra's Interior

Start by vacuuming loose dirt and dust from the cloth or leather-trimmed upholstery. Then apply a solution of mild soap and water, using a clean cloth or sponge. (Be careful not to soak the upholstery because this can increase the chance of discoloration or mildew.) Wipe the upholstery and repeat as necessary until the surface is clean. Keep in mind that leather upholstery contains sufficient oils. Oils applied to the surface will not enhance the leather and may actually damage the finish. (Note: Never use gasoline, solvents, paint thinner, or other strong cleaners, as they can discolor and damage the upholstery.)



Most people don't think of vacuuming and dusting their dashboards, consoles, cup holders or rear window shelf, etc. But dust and common allergens collect inside the car and can be difficult to clean. Dash vents are easiest to clean with a foam swab and mild soap. An alternative is to wrap the handle of a detailing brush with a piece of terry cloth.



Next vacuum and clean the floor mats. Vacuum the mats well with the carpet-comb attachment and remove them from the car. Shoe scuffs on the door panels are another area, which is quickly remedied by a spray cleaning solution. Simply spray the product on the door panel and scrub with a soft scrub brush. Rinse with clean water when done.



For the carpeting, vacuum as much dirt as possible using the carpet-comb tool. If the stains on the carpet and floor mats are small, or the stains are light, a "spray, scrub and vacuum" product will more-than-likely do the trick. Follow the manufacturer's directions for best results. If the area is large, or the stains are more obvious, it's best to use a professional carpet-cleaning machine. The machine infuses the carpet with the cleaning solution, breaking down the dirt particles and forcing them out of the carpet. At the same time, the machine vacuums the dirty water mixture out of the carpet, leaving it fresh and clean. If you don't own a carpet-cleaning machine, you can rent one at your local supermarket or rental agency. Since most machines infuse the carpet with cleaner and water, be sure to get a good quality cleaning solution. If in doubt, ask a sales associate for assistance.


Detailing your vehicle may take more elbow grease than driving it to the local car wash, but the results obtained will not only make your Hyundai look as good as the day it rolled off the showroom floor, but you'll be the envy of the neighbors as well."

(a recent archive post)

Soon to be released for sale if not already.....

Power Line



Designed for the user of mechanical aids, Power Line consists of:

PowerPolish™ - Removes swirl marks, oxidation, micromarring, spiderwebbing and other surface imperfections. For use with a random orbital, dual action, or rotary buffer. Dimishing particle abrasive technology efficiently removes defects, leaving a mar free finish. Can be used with foam, cotton or wool pads.

PowerWax™ - Specially formulated for use with a mechanical device, it allows the user to evenly spread product for a uniform finish. #1 Brazilian yellow carnauba leaves a warm, even finish with minimal effort. We suggest using a foam pad.

PowerMetal™ - A liquid version of our renowned Mag & Aluminum Polish, formulated for use with our new PowerBall. For most efficient results, apply to the PowerBall and allow to penetrate prior to use. This will allow product to flow out to the surface while operating the PowerBall, reducing time spent applying product.



PowerBall™ - The first patented device to quickly and efficiently polish aluminum, billet and other alloys on wheels, accessories, diamondplate and other alloy surfaces. Use with a drill (we recommend an 18 volt cordless) by applying polish to the surface or PowerBall, then starting the drill. After polishing the area, remove residue with a clean terry cloth or microfiber towel.



Mothers FX™ Line



Formulated for the synthetic fan, FX offers engineered synthetics to provide fast and easy application/removal and an even, brilliant shine.

FX SynWax™ - Engineered synthetic that wipes on and can be buffed off with minimal effort, it’s the quick and easy way to protect the paint surface. Its polishes remove light surface defects while synthetic protection creates gloss and protection.

FX Spray Wax – Engineered spray wax that can be used as a booster to protected paint surfaces, or as a standalone protection product. Spray on and wipe off.

FX Tire Shine – An extremely shiny spray tire dressing that won’t brown or sling.

FX Wheel Cleaner – Safe for all wheel types, spray on, allow to dwell for a minute, then hose off. Neglected wheels may require agitation with a soft brush and/or a second application.



Classic Products

Here are the new packages

Leather Cleaner and Leather Conditioner go from 8 ounces to 12 ounces.



Wheel Cleaners are now 24 ounces instead of 22, and the shape of the bottle is more contemporary.



Protectant is the new name for Preserves, and is in the new shaped bottle. Available in both 16 and 24 ounce size.

http://members.roadfly.com/forrestt/products/preserves.jpg


Reflections® Line:

The name’s the same, but the product and packaging are all new!



Reflections® Car Wax – a premium synthetic product for those who demand the best. Easy on/easy off with state of the art polymers for shine, durability and protection. It has light cleaners in it so true layering is not practical. 16 ounces

Reflections® Top Coat – wanna top your finish? Then use Reflections® Top Coat. This carnauba/polymer hybrid has no cleaners in it, so layering can be performed with spectacular results – warmth, depth and protection. 16 ounces



Reflections® Spray Wax – the liquid that does it all! Use it:

1) As a spray wax on a wet or dry surface
2) As a standalone wax
3) Or as a booster to Reflections Wax or Top Coat

Spray it on, spread with a clean applicator, let dry to a haze, buff with a clean dry towel or microfiber. 24 ounces



Reflections® Tire Care – want that concourse look for your tires? This dressing is a low luster formula that makes tires look like new. No slinging, browning or glare – just a rich, like new, finish. Apply to tire or applicator, then spread evenly for best results. 24 ounces



Reflections® Leather Care – all-in-one leather cleaning and protection for your smooth leather surfaces. Spray on and wipe away dirt and soiling contaminants while protecting your leather surfaces with a lanolin/neat’s foot oil enriched formula. 24 ounces.


Here's a quick recap:

PowerBall (for polishing wheels)
PowerMetal polish
PowerPolish (for paint)
PowerWax (for paint)
FX SynWax
FX Spray Wax
FX Wheel Cleaner
FX Tire Shine
Reflections Car Wax (synthetic)
Reflections Top Coat
Reflections Spray Wax
Reflections Tire Care
Reflections all-in-one Leather Care
Wheel Mist Wheel Cleaner 24 oz
Wheel Mist Chrome (24 oz)
Protectant (24 oz)
Mag & Aluminum Polish (22 oz)
Leather Cleaner (12 oz)
Leather Conditioner (12 oz)

- F1guy68

For a long we all heard about newspaper being great for polishing up windows and recently microfiber towels have been the rage, but I came across information on these towels called either "Huck" or "Surgical" towels. Apparently, these things are extremely sturdy, relatively lint free and not only excellent and streak free when used with a quality glass cleaner but they are relatively cheap... like $1 apiece in bulk. Folks mentioned they were good on tires, wheels engine cleaning, etc.

These are new to me, has anyone heard of these or even used them before? I mean they sound like a nice, inexpensive alternative.

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