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> 07 coldair intake, is it safe?
CRF450Jim
post Mar 10 2008, 03:17 PM
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QUOTE (cclngthr @ Mar 9 2008, 06:23 PM) *
1. The ECU on the Hyundai is under the hood and exposed to temps as high as 200 degrees, including the 850 degree F temperature of the first catalyst. HMC programmed the ECU to make the catalyst operate at that temperature, and with it under the hood as well as the engine and transmission, the casing on the ECU needs to be cooler than what the temperature of the ECU is putting out. This is not CAI temperatures. You seem to confuse a CAI temperature with underhood temperature. 2 different issues here. I am specifically talking about underhood temps as related to temps of the engine and trans, which are higher than CAI temps. CAI temps are lower by nature because the air is cold as it enters the filter and flows at a high rate thus warming up the air is not as easy if plastic is used. Since most CAI's are metal, underhood temperatures heat up the metal faster because metal transfers heat better than plastic, what temperature of air is entering the metal tubing quickly warms up once it reaches the intake manifold. With a plastic tube/intake system, heat transfer is not as easy due to the material.

2. The higher processor produces more heat, as with normal IC's. The HD ECU speed is operating faster due to the design of what it is supposed to do. Its decisions make the engine run better, but also decisions regarding the whole electrical system is integrated with that same system. Honda's started using this around 5-6 years ago, where the ECU does more tasks than engine and transmission management. However, Honda/Acura has had multiple electrical gremlins that posed problems regarding the ECU management. HMC decided in 06 with the NF and TG that increasing the processor speed as well as other revisions can improve the reliability of the electronic systems. Apparently, that worked for Hyundai.

3. ECU overheating causes certain functions to intermittently fail and sometimes all functions fail. Voltage is usually passed through chips, and if the voltage does not go through the chip at a certain rate (time or voltage) the chipset is bad or the board is bad. On a 99 Mazda 626 I worked on, there was a bank 2 o2 sensor inefficency code at times and the sensor and catalyst tested out OK. With both the cat and sensor testing fine, the wiring was checked and that also tested fine. On the ECU, testing voltage at the chipset found voltage was entering parts of it, but not exiting where it should be. Discoloration of the IC also shows signs of overheating. Some chipsets have a microcircuit that is visible and under magnification, that chipset shows breakage of the circuitry. Usually, under normal conditions the ECU stays stable, but if it gets hot, instability is seen, which can result in a variety of things, from codes to drivability issues to loss of drivability.

6. Flow rate measures restriction and volume of air through the system that is bench tested. When I bench tested oil filters, I used a stable liquid pressure (psi) and had a gauge before the filter measuring the psi going into the filter and another at the exit measuring the psi level of the liquid exiting the filter. A similar devise can be used to test the stock airbox on the bench where a stable pressure and volume is entering the intake and the second set of gauges reads the volume and pressure of air exiting the system.

You keep saying cooler air. On the HD, the incoming air is not entering the system from the engine bay area. It is entering the system just outside that area ahead of the radiator and AC condenser. Most cars have intake systems that the incoming air enters the system from behind the radiator, which the air is hotter than ahead of the radiator.

You also are neglecting that the intake air has to be at a certain temperature for fuel to burn efficiently and cleanly. Most cars do have intake manifold TB's that have coolant lines running to them. The Elantra HD and XD both have this not only due to emission requirements, but also having the throttle body operating correctly. If the incoming air is too cold, the burn is not as efficient thus higher emissions are seen. The same can be said if the air is too hot.

7. When I tried the CAI I temporarily used (a 3 inch long tube) I ended up getting a CEL with a lean code. There was too much air for the ECU to handle. Although the same intake works fine with the XD, the ECU adaptability is narrower on the HD to solve several issues. 1. The XD suffered from a 3800-4200 rpm bog, which is not present on the HD. Here, the fuel ratio was changed to prevent this bog from occuring on the HD. This was noticed when I changed my plugs, which were a medium brown rather than a light tan to gray color that is normally seen. The XD has a gray color on the plugs when they are removed. Here, a leaner mixture is seen. Since the darker color is evident on the HD plugs, the mixture is richer to offset any bog in an rpm range. You don't want to run a engine too lean or the piston will give out on you.

Here is my dyno sheet with the stock HD.


After this run was made, I modified the intake by removing the resonator and capping the hole and putting a K&N drop in filter in and removing the stock 1.8 inch exhaust pipe and resonator and replacing that with a 2.25 inch pipe from the 2nd cat to the muffler and retaining the stock 1.8 inch tailpipe from the muffler back to the bumper.


cclngthr, I am disappointed that your posts seem to be so focused on proving that the CAI mod is bad that you are flipfloping on details, trying to make guestimates sound like facts and propagating myths. This is not fair for others reading these posts and using the info to make decisions shame on you. My input follows. Please, try to stay away from the FUD and provide just the facts.



1. Flipflop You seem to be confused as to what your real under the hood temp guestimate is. You have mentioned three different temp ranges in a variety of posts for underhood temp 195-200, +190 and now as high as 200. So what is your final answer a scary +190 or a max of 200F? Please back this up with a reference to an outside resource so we know that this is not just another Guestimate. Mythbuster Most cars are designed to provide airflow in the engine bay that ensures that, under most conditions, that the engine bay temps are not that much higher than ambient. So, the real exposure to high heat in the engine bay is when the car is idling on a very hot and windless day and/or when there is a motor malfunction that causes an overheat condition. Myths Not sure why you are talking about metal CAI's review my pix's, it is quite obvious that there is minimal metal in my CAI.

2. Myths What is a "higher processor"? Mythbuster A newer car's ECU manages many inputs/outputs however, this is nowhere near that of a PC. As a result, The ECU clk cycle is much less than the current PC and its subsequent heat output is much lower than a PC. Mythbuster From one of your previous posts "Any electronic devise is made in the same manner whether it is for a home or car" ECU design an manufacturing is different than that for the home. Most ECU's are in a sealed unit without any fan, whereas most PC's require significant air flow. If you continue to doubt this then duct tape your laptop to your car's ECU, put a remote monitor next to the driver's seat, run an app and then see how many km you can go before the laptop dies.

3. Mythbuster - ECU overheating is not the major cause of ECU failure!

Mythbuster Voltage does not pass thru chips, current passes thru chips.

Guestimate You seem to have experienced a number of ECU failures that you believe were caused by too much heat but you never really quantified that heat was the issue. Have you ever asked yourself why the cars you are working on are experiencing so many ECU failures? Or, why you never actually find out that the cause was for the failure? Perhaps there is some learning here.

4) & 5) Not sure why you did not want to respond to these? I will take this time to reinforce the fact that every 10F change in intake air means 1hp you do the math.

6)Guestimate You stated in a previous post that you would measure intake flow rate this last weekend what are the results? FlipFlop In a previous post you stated that the intake resonator was not restrictive but now you say you removed it so, what is your final answer do you believe it is or it is not restrictive? Yes, the TB does have, in stock form, coolant lines and yes these help ensure a more consistent intake temp (these lines can add heat or even take it away) and, that this helps keep emissions low. However, one of the main things it does is to ensure that ice does not build up in cold, damp climates this could shut down the motor. That being said, the ECU can handle a wide variation in intake temps without impacting efficiency again, these things are designed for worst case scenario. Myth - So, I'm not sure why you bring this up it almost feels like you are saying that a CAI would be a problem or cause efficiency issues as it would deliver too cold a charge? I have not seen any significant milage impact (read efficiency) with my CAI and no TB coolant lines in -33C weather.

7. Myth A properly designed/installed CAI will not generate a CEL. I'm not sure why you seemed to have issues with your CAI the CAI in the pix's I posted continues to work fine as does my ECU.


Thanks for the dyno sheet. I am very interested in seeing the dyno sheet that shows the improvement with only a CAI change. All I have for quantitative measures so far is the increase in fuel milage of about 4%.



Sorry for the flame this one really got under my skin!


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cclngthr
post Mar 10 2008, 09:23 PM
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QUOTE
Mythbuster Most cars are designed to provide airflow in the engine bay that ensures that, under most conditions, that the engine bay temps are not that much higher than ambient. So, the real exposure to high heat in the engine bay is when the car is idling on a very hot and windless day and/or when there is a motor malfunction that causes an overheat condition. Myths Not sure why you are talking about metal CAI's review my pix's, it is quite obvious that there is minimal metal in my CAI.


Prove your point with actual underhood temps with the hood closed. The engine runs at 195 degrees, the cat converter is 850 degrees. Air flowing through the radiator and A/C condenser is not ambient temp and cannot be ambient temp because the coolant temperature and the A/C condenser is not 70 degrees. The temperature of the radiator is the same as the engine at the hot tank and about 90 degrees at the cold tank. Average temperatures in the middle should be between 195 and 90. Air flowing past the 850 degree catalyst will warm up the air, not cool it. Both of those items are right in front of the radiator.

QUOTE
You have mentioned three different temp ranges in a variety of posts for underhood temp 195-200, +190 and now as high as 200. So what is your final answer a scary +190 or a max of 200F?


Depending on driving style, load and outside temperature, temperatures can vary. If you drive like an ass, yes, the temperatures are going to be higher, as well as if you are loaded. The same thing also happens if the ambient temperature is hot. In my area, temperatures range in the daytime from 40-95 degrees, but other areas have temperatures over 110. A standard 70 degrees typical and usually referred to, but not always appropriate. Still, temperatures are going to be higher than ambient temperatures, but not 150 degrees as you claim. Maybe if the cat converter was not under the hood. With the catalyst being right behind the radiator, temperatures are going to be hotter becaise that cat is hot.

QUOTE
Myths Not sure why you are talking about metal CAI's review my pix's, it is quite obvious that there is minimal metal in my CAI.


Most cai's are metal.





All of these are aluminum. Tell me they are not metal.

QUOTE
2. Myths What is a "higher processor"? Mythbuster A newer car's ECU manages many inputs/outputs however, this is nowhere near that of a PC. As a result, The ECU clk cycle is much less than the current PC and its subsequent heat output is much lower than a PC. Mythbuster

You provide no data/evidence here. The ECU on the HD is a 32 bit processor, which is the same as most PC's. Fews operate on a 64 bit speed because the programs available for that OS speed is not as wide as the 32 bit processor speed. My PC is capable of operating at 64 bit, but is operating at 32 bit because the OS runs more stable at that speed.

QUOTE
6)Guestimate You stated in a previous post that you would measure intake flow rate this last weekend what are the results? FlipFlop In a previous post you stated that the intake resonator was not restrictive but now you say you removed it


The stock HD system is not as restrictive as the XD. The flow on the HD system with a base pressure of 5 psi is 4.8 psi at the TB with stock filter and resonator. The same pressure was used on the XD intake system, and from the base 5 psi entering the intake at the resonator, the psi at the TB was 3.9. Everything was factory, including the filters. Removing the HD resonator only changed the pressure from 4.8(with) to 4.85(without). With a K&N drop in filter on the HD, the pressure at the TB was 4.89. You are comparing aftermarket with factory. I'm comparing factory HD to factory XD.

QUOTE
Mythbuster Voltage does not pass thru chips, current passes thru chips.

Sensors send voltage, not current. That same voltage is sent to the chip so the *data* can be read.

QUOTE
7. Myth A properly designed/installed CAI will not generate a CEL. I'm not sure why you seemed to have issues with your CAI the CAI in the pix's I posted continues to work fine as does my ECU.


The CAI I used was 3 inches in diameter. The airflow was too high due to the ECU programming, which was changed in 07 to a parameter that is narrower than the 01-06 XD/2's. The same 3 inch CAI works on the older cars because the ECU parameters are wider. With a wider parameter, the ECU will adapt to a larger range in airflow. The HD parameter is narrower for emissions and possibly a solution to the 3800-4200 rpm bog the 01-03 and some 04-06 XD's had even with the reflash. A CAI that is 2.5-2.75 inches in diameter could work, but again this depends on the length and type of filter used. The ECU's are adaptive, but it will not adapt as far as the older cars without the engine running lean. A few people on HP.com also experienced cel's with the HD as well.


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CRF450Jim
post Mar 10 2008, 11:42 PM
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I have allready provided a link that shows underhood temp of a high performance Honda is at 150f max during summer. Perhaps you should do a INET search on underhood temps and then you will find that I am closer to the truth than you think. Its not all about knowing the heat output of each compnent as you have stated ,,, rather it is also about knowing that the auto designers developed a way to get rid of the heat with airflow. The real issue here is that you truly need to be consistant when you supply info such as under hood temp ... and not be a history revisionist and state the reason why you provided different temps was because there could be a variety of different temps depending on other conditions.
Nice pix's of metal CAI's but AGAIN not relevant ... the discussion was about your thoughts that the non-metal CAI I have installed would impact ECU cooling ... posting more pixs of metal CAI and talking about metal CAIs truly takes it off topic.
With regards to voltage & current ... ask anyone with some basic electronics understanding ... its the current that flows thru IC's and the voltage is a result of the resistance that the current sees. The sensors, allow a different votage to be seen due to their resistance change and the current runing thru them.
There is no such thing as a 64bit speed as you have suggested. Rather it is a measure of how big a register can be processed with one clk cycle. BTW 64 bit became stable a long time ago.
I did provide evidence that showed a non Elantra ECU could take in excess of 317f. There will be even more evidence if you would put your laptop under your hood to see how long it would last ... the ECU and PC's are designed and manufactured differently than household products. An indication that you agree is that you will never try to put the laptop under your hood.
WRT intake resonator ... I'm not comparing between models ... I'm questioning your inconsistancy when you try to prove one point by saying its not restrictive and then you try to show another point in the next post that says you have removed it because it is now restrictive.
CAI diameter and CEL ... with your depth of experience I do not know why you would ever try to use a 3" connector when a 2.75" is a great fit for both the TB an MAS ... what were you thinking? BTW, in one post you said it was a 3" diameter pipe an in another you said it was 3" long ... which is it? FYI a reasonable length that should not produce any CEL is one that is close to stock (sometimes you have to look inside the stock air box to determine the length that the air will see. I used 7" between TB and MAS and 4" between MAS and filter. Again, no CEL.
Still do not know your definition of a "higher processor" ... want to give it a shot?
Any thoughts on why you seem to have experienced so many ECU failures?
So we are back to the same issues ... get consistant, speak the real facts that are backed up, do not be a history revisionist and this will help the readers.
You may know the buzz words and a bunch of factoids but you could have a better grasp of what they mean.
Have you tried the laptop under the hood yet?
BTW the ECU is still running great in my CAI'd Elantra ... 7,600km and counting ... still getting 4% better milage.
I'm done!


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cclngthr
post Mar 11 2008, 01:01 AM
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QUOTE (CRF450Jim @ Mar 10 2008, 09:42 PM) *
I have allready provided a link that shows underhood temp of a high performance Honda is at 150f max during summer. Perhaps you should do a INET search on underhood temps and then you will find that I am closer to the truth than you think. Its not all about knowing the heat output of each compnent as you have stated ,,, rather it is also about knowing that the auto designers developed a way to get rid of the heat with airflow. The real issue here is that you truly need to be consistant when you supply info such as under hood temp ... and not be a history revisionist and state the reason why you provided different temps was because there could be a variety of different temps depending on other conditions.
Nice pix's of metal CAI's but AGAIN not relevant ... the discussion was about your thoughts that the non-metal CAI I have installed would impact ECU cooling ... posting more pixs of metal CAI and talking about metal CAIs truly takes it off topic.
With regards to voltage & current ... ask anyone with some basic electronics understanding ... its the current that flows thru IC's and the voltage is a result of the resistance that the current sees. The sensors, allow a different votage to be seen due to their resistance change and the current runing thru them.
There is no such thing as a 64bit speed as you have suggested. Rather it is a measure of how big a register can be processed with one clk cycle. BTW 64 bit became stable a long time ago.
I did provide evidence that showed a non Elantra ECU could take in excess of 317f. There will be even more evidence if you would put your laptop under your hood to see how long it would last ... the ECU and PC's are designed and manufactured differently than household products. An indication that you agree is that you will never try to put the laptop under your hood.
WRT intake resonator ... I'm not comparing between models ... I'm questioning your inconsistancy when you try to prove one point by saying its not restrictive and then you try to show another point in the next post that says you have removed it because it is now restrictive.
CAI diameter and CEL ... with your depth of experience I do not know why you would ever try to use a 3" connector when a 2.75" is a great fit for both the TB an MAS ... what were you thinking? BTW, in one post you said it was a 3" diameter pipe an in another you said it was 3" long ... which is it? FYI a reasonable length that should not produce any CEL is one that is close to stock (sometimes you have to look inside the stock air box to determine the length that the air will see. I used 7" between TB and MAS and 4" between MAS and filter. Again, no CEL.
Still do not know your definition of a "higher processor" ... want to give it a shot?
Any thoughts on why you seem to have experienced so many ECU failures?
So we are back to the same issues ... get consistant, speak the real facts that are backed up, do not be a history revisionist and this will help the readers.
You may know the buzz words and a bunch of factoids but you could have a better grasp of what they mean.
Have you tried the laptop under the hood yet?
BTW the ECU is still running great in my CAI'd Elantra ... 7,600km and counting ... still getting 4% better milage.
I'm done!



Your questioning me about the removal of my resonator: I chose to remove it when I wanted access to something under it. I knew that its removal was not necessary, but do see a slight increase of airflow, but the amount is so slight that it does not make a difference whether it is off or on. The resonator is placed on the side of the intake tubing, thus air can bypass it, but also enter/exit it for sound elimination. On other cars, air actually flows through the resonator directly. On the XD, air must flow into the resonator and through baffles to get to the airbox. On the HD, this is not how it was designed.

Why do you try to suggest that the ECU, as Hyundai designed/placed it the way they did, needs zero cooling? Hyundai designed the air box in such a way to cool the ECU for a specific reason. That reason is to cool it. That unit is an expensive component, and prior posts, not only by me, both on here and also on EXD about the risks of overheating. Are you willing to warranty your statements as concrete that the ECU on the Hyundai will withstand a hot environment without any failure? What if your suggestion results in a failure down the road, say 20-30K plus miles? Would you be willing to pay for someones ECU if it fails under your recommendation? You claim that all ECU's are different, but modern ECU's are a computer, and not just a simple electronic devise. They operate faster because of the microprocessor and chipset in them.

Cobas said this in an earlier post:

QUOTE
Why are you so sure? The ECU's heatsink cooled by lots ambient air at maybe 30-40C vs under-hood temperatures of 50-60C or more with close to zero air flow... and it's an expensive item to replace! Unless Hyundai did that unnecessary change only to make us question the wisdom of CAI's... that would be sneaky... maybe there's an ECU temperature sensor to detect use of a CAI... maybe it all explodes above 50C!! AaAAAah!! I dunno man...I dunno


ECU's do have microprocessors as regular PC's do:
QUOTE
Modern ECUs
Modern ECUs use a microprocessor which can process the inputs from the engine sensors in real time. An electronic control unit contains the hardware and software (firmware). The hardware consists of electronic components on a printed circuit board (PCB). The main component on this circuit board is a microcontroller chip (CPU). The software is stored in the microcontroller or other chips on the PCB, typically in EPROMs or flash memory so the CPU can be re-programmed by uploading updated code or replacing chips. This is also referred to as an (electronic) Engine Management System (EMS).

Modern ECUs sometimes include features as cruise control etc.


A lot of risks there. My bet is you will not make a warranty on your claims when a failure occurs.

If you comprehend like a second grader, maybe you confuse diameter with length. Reread what I said. I said a 3 inch CAI. why do you think that is 3 inches long? CAI means long tube. I assume people here have the comprehension beyond a 2nd grader, and I expect adults to have a reading/comprehension level of at least a high school student. Normal people assume a 3 inch CAI means a 3 inch diameter long tube intake.

The 3 inch CAI works on the older model Elantra with no problem. No CEL's whatsoever. It also works on the pre 05 Tiburon. Nothing was said about MAF placement by me. Why do you assume I said something about MAF location on the CAI? That is a non issue because I am assuming people have enough knowledge where it should be without me telling them specifically where it needs to be. If they can't understand that concept, they have no business working on a car.


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KaptKrunch
post Mar 11 2008, 01:49 AM
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I am going to have to go with cclngthr on this one. My old pickup had the ECU in the passenger side kick panel in the cab. After 18 years of being used in the hot California sun, it started throwing codes with the EFI even though there were really no problems with the system itself. I like CAI's and I would like to have one in my own car, but when it is my warranty on the line, I am inclined to make the more practical decision of going without it and therefore not risking the failure of a very expensive component not covered under a busted warranty. You may not notice any problems immediately, but that is the kind of thing that will snowball into something big down the road and bite you in the butt. Now I'm not necessarily saying that CRF450Jim is being ignorant. I understand his freedom to make his own decisions, and I am simply saying that when it comes down to installing a CAI, that I am not going to do it. To each his own.


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Bigs
post Mar 11 2008, 06:42 AM
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Guys, we learn with trial and error. Doesn't mean Colin is wrong nor Jim. We all had to go through all this when the XD came out. We were all scared to try new things and would wait on someone to try it out first before we would. Well, Jim here took the plunge and has had no issues for a good 7000KM's. Now, nothing says he will never have an issue, but dang he's lined up for a good run.

Jim, we appreciate your input!

There.


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CRF450Jim
post Mar 11 2008, 02:18 PM
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QUOTE (mtlelantra @ Jan 29 2008, 09:34 PM) *
So presumably if you had some narrower tubing that fit that way and just leave the stock airbox in place along with some of the stock tubing to force air through the box to cool the ECU then you might find a winner setup...


Perhaps there is some learning here from mtlelantra ... for those that are concerned about cooking their ECU, it would be fairly easy to run some of the stock tubing to cool the heat sink on the ECU. This would provide airflow to the ECU that would be similar to stock. BTW, to quantify the risk, a rebuilt or used ECU for the Elantra is about $300.

Now for cclngthr ... the sky is not falling ohmy.gif

I'm sure that no one on this forum will warranty a mod ... including yourself. Everyone will have to make their own decision and live with the results ... good or bad. This is another bad path. wink.gif

WRT ECU's and processors ... you have taken this down the wrong path. All of us understand that the ECU has a uprocessor. In fact, for a rather long time most ECU's had some type of uprocessor in them. What you do not understand is that because the ECU is rather slow (about 40mhz vs a PC's 2ghz) and moves a lot less data compared to traditional PC's and because it is built to different specs ... the ECU produces a lot less heat and can live in a hotter environment ... period. Just imagine the amount of data flowing and clk cycle requirement of a PC doing full motion video at 30fps while you are also running an xls and word pgm.

The ECU does not get zero cooling with the CAI. There is a natural flow of air that comes up from under the car and passes over the ECU heat sink ... even more flow now that the large amount of intake plumbing has been removed. This additional flow caused by removeal of the extra intake plumbing that is now now longer needed, also helps keep the whole engine bay cooler. B)

The placement of the MAF is key with intake altering along with the width/length of the connecting pipes. Altering these key elements may change the torque at certain RPM's even if it does not throw a CEL. THis is due to the fact that, as with the exhaust, the intake flow is not consistant ... it has pulses that vary with RPM. So both intake and exhaust have resonators that are designed to do a balancing act of minimizing sound while maximizing torque at all RPM's ... or even spike torque at specific RPM's to compensate for a drop in torque due to some other component. That is why a static flow bench with intakes do not really tell the true story ... and in fact can lead people down the wrong path.

There is not much under the resonator ... I hope you found what your were looking to access there?? You seem to continue to miss the point ... the issue not the fact that you removed the resonator. Rather, it is the fact that you change your story to suit the point you are trying to make. mad.gif

Maybe this is a job for the much talked about "supercharger" ... blowing air on the ECU heat sink could prove to be more useful for this device than blowing air into the intake. biggrin.gif I will post updates, including under temp readings.

BTW cclngthr, it seems you have been arguing this in a number of forums in the past? You appear to be overally concerned about heating the ECU wherever it is placed. Its good to see you are consistant with the varying of your "under the hood temps" ... you had a very tight range in the following post as well as a very low temp for inside your car.
cclngthr11-01-2007, 12:02 AMOk, I'll play the devil's advocate too.
Why wouldn't the stock ECU on our XD's have a fan if it was needed? It's actually hidden in the dash, with no airflow to it, ha.
The ECU is under the dash away from a lot of heat and is positioned so there is just enough airflow to cool the fins, but even then it still gets a bit warmer than I'd like.
The HD ECU is under the hood and temperatures are much warmer than 70 degrees F. Under hood temps range between 180-210 degrees F, much warmer than 70 degrees F in the XD.
I would prefer a cooler environment for the ECU.
only1db11-01-2007, 03:42 AMthere are no fins on the xd/xd2 ecu....and doesnt heat rise...so that would mean that when you have the heat on the floor....it rises right up to the ecu and other wiring....so it would actually be getting all of the heat....
the ecu does not get that warm that it needs a fan...its only doing basic features...its not surfing the web, playing music, and playing porn in the backround at the same time....if it did then i would have a 7 inch monitor in the dash....hahah rolleyes.gif
It seems that your ECU seems to have grown fins where all the like models do not have fins ... what gives?
Wow doesn't this sound familiar ... an ECU is not a PC and does not get as warm as a PC? Even under the dash the ambiant ECU temps can be much higher than 70F ... think leaving you car windows closed with a black interior/exterior on a 100F day.
see the whole post here http://www.elantraxd.com/forums/archive/in...hp/t-26222.html


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fgummett
post Mar 11 2008, 02:23 PM
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Attention all: Let's please keep things to the topic at hand and keep personal attacks out of this and all threads. Thanks.


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post Jul 15 2010, 10:35 AM
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It's been over two years sine we had any posts on this thread. Can we get an update from Jim on how the CAI is holding up? Colin, any news on your end with regards to performance improvements? Thanks in advance.

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post Jul 15 2010, 11:20 AM
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cclngthr no longer has an HD. He sold it off due to electrical issues and got a Mazda 3. I forget where the post is, but it's around. I think there is still an issue where the ECU is cooled from the Air intake, so you would need something there to cool it inplace of the forced air. Bob?


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RyanLJS
post Jul 31 2014, 02:45 PM
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Has anybody had any results from removing the stock airbox for a new intake? Good or bad it would be nice to know if the ecu withstood the heat or not.


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jamhandman
post Aug 5 2014, 10:06 AM
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I have not replaced the stock intake all I did was remove the front resonator and recently dropped on a K&N... oh I also removed the Carbon filter... I mean the car isn't going to get much faster with a CAI, but might be a fun project. smile.gif You could do the coolant bypass on the throttle body... I didn't feel like doing that.


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