Gas saving tips Options

[crunchymonkey]

A couple notes on AC:

1) If you have the standard type of AC (not automatic climate control where you just set a temp) it pretty much uses the same amount of power no matter what the temp setting. It just mixes in warmer air when not on full cold (at least this was how my last car worked). Therefore, the most efficient way to use it is put the temperature setting all the way to the coldest and turn it off and on to control the temp as opposed to running it continuously and using the temp knob to adjust the temperature. This is probably obvious to most but JIC.

2) For MOST cars, the point at which air resistance passes rolling resistance to become the primary cause of drag is right about 55 mph. By 70, it becomes quite a force and it grows exponentially. At that point, rolling down your windows or doing anything else that disrupts the aero of your car has quite an impact. Sounds like some drivers are not seeing that so maybe the Elantra is different. But it also means that UNDER 55 you probably are just fine with the windows down and the AC off as drag isn't really much of an factor at those speeds compared to rolling resistance.

3) Its easy to forget but if you have a sunroof, closing the internal cover to block sunlight from above during the day can have a profound effect on the cabin temperature with 0 cost in mpg.

[flyswatter]

...1) If you have the standard type of AC (not automatic climate control where you just set a temp) it pretty much uses the same amount of power no matter what the temp setting. It just mixes in warmer air when not on full cold (at least this was how my last car worked). Therefore, the most efficient way to use it is put the temperature setting all the way to the coldest and turn it off and on to control the temp as opposed to running it continuously and using the temp knob to adjust the temperature. This is probably obvious to most but JIC...

What about the difference between using MAX or not? I've always assumed that the MAX option would be an additional impediment to fuel efficiency.

[NevynPA]

What about the difference between using MAX or not? I've always assumed that the MAX option would be an additional impediment to fuel efficiency.

MAX is normally the "recirculate" option. After you've used "normal" to pull in the ambient air from outside and chill it and the car is cooled, THEN switch to MAX. It will use the air from inside the car that it already cooled, and re-cool it instead of working harder to cool the hot outside air.



Do NOT NOT NOT! use MAX when you first start a car! That hot air that you feel boiling out at you when you open a door can be anywhere up to 160* F! Why make your A/C try to fight against all that heat? Even if it's 90* F outside, that's still less work (less heat to remove) than cooling from that superheated air.

I like to open a door on each side of the car and let the heat out before getting in, turning on, and starting A/C. If it's a sunny day, I wait until I don't see the shadow of the superheated air as it rolls out of the car.

[flyswatter]

MAX is normally the "recirculate" option. After you've used "normal" to pull in the ambient air from outside and chill it and the car is cooled, THEN switch to MAX. It will use the air from inside the car that it already cooled, and re-cool it instead of working harder to cool the hot outside air....

I had no idea. Thanks for the education!

[Mark Rejhon]

I just ordered a Garmin ecoRoute HD:
https://buy.garmin.com/shop/shop.do?pID=38354
for my Garmin GPS unit (nuvi 3760T).

It's a brand new engine-computer attachment that connects your Garmin GPS directly to your Hyundai engine's computer!!! (over Bluetooth) ... The MPG (or L/100km) is conveniently graphed and logged on your Garmin's GPS screen. Allowing you to watch your gas savings better.

It supposedly works with any of the newer Bluetooth-enabled nuvi's numbered 1000 or above. It works by plugging into your Elantra's existing vehicle diagnostics connector (a federally-mandated industry standard OBDII connector that's underneath the dash, slightly to the left of the steering wheel), and transmitting engine computer data to the Garmin GPS, allowing your GPS unit to display extra-detailed mileage information, in an even-more-detailed manner than the fancy mileage graphs that is found on Toyota Prius. It also utilizes a leaf scoring system very similiar to the Honda Insight (albiet numeric score from 1 to 100), that challenges the driver to drive more efficiently by not being a leadfoot.

I always enjoyed driving the Insight's and Priuses because I was more entertained by driving gently, than succumbing to speeding. I am hoping that this fancy Garmin mileage eye candy will allow me to replicate the Prius mileage-improving experience a bit better. Of course, glance only -- keep eyes on road.

Review coming in, perhaps, a month or so.

This post has been edited by Mark Rejhon: Jul 13 2011, 02:03 PM

[elantragt]

I'd love to see a review in our product Review Zone:

http://www.elantraclub.com/forum/index.php?autocom=review

Welcome to EC, btw.

[Mark Rejhon]

I'd love to see a review in our product Review Zone:
http://www.elantraclub.com/forum/index.php?autocom=review

Okay, I'll definitely take up the offer this summer. I suppose it belongs in the "Other" category, albiet ecoRoute HD also has the bonus of being an engine diagnostics reader (i.e. it will tell you why the engine light is on) but since my car is so brand new, I don't expect to be able to test that feature.

[ocsurfer]

So I've had my 2013 Elantra Limited for nearly 3 months now, and here's what I've noticed.

When I plan my acceleration and deceleration (e.g. looking ahead - slowing down slowly before the intersection, sometimes to try and time the light; accelerating slowly when the light goes green, not exceeding the speed limit, etc.) I easily get 20-22 MPG even in the worst city-driving, constant traffic light conditions.

When I'm lead-footed, race to the next stop light, exceed the speed limit, etc, I fight to hit 17 MPG in the same driving conditions.

On the highway, I can very easily hit the 24-26 MPG area, and if I drive strategically, I can hit 31-32 MPG.

Long and short of it is the Elantra can easily get into the 20's and even creep into the 30's, it just takes a commitment to not drive it like a race car.

My grandfather always said, "Kids waste half their gas burning out their brakes."

[litesong]

My grandfather always said, "Kids waste half their gas burning out their brakes."

I would say lots of drivers waste a lot of gas, not knowing how to handle hills & mountain slopes. Approaching the bottom of a hill from the flat, slowly increase your speed above its normal pace. As the hill tilts upward, do NOT lose speed or you lose any advantage of increased speed before the hill. As your vehicle gets to the steepest part of the hill, allow speed to slowly reduce, till at the hilltop flat, your pace is less than your normal. Only on the flat, bring your speed slowly back to your normal pace. If the hill immediately descends after the hilltop, don't accelerate with your gas pedal, but allow the hill's potential energy at hilltop to give your kinetic energy back to you. Elantra is very good at picking up speed on a downhill. The idea is to trade some kinetic energy at hilltop bottom for some potential energy at hill top, using the least amount of chemical gasoline energy through the gas pedal. This is called flattening out the hilltop.

Another idea for the hills:
If your transmission won't hold the gear it is in, as you ascend the hill, shift to lower gears on the flat. Shifting to lower gears while on the hill, is a sure-fire gas waster.

One of the worst gas wasters is to burn up a hill & the worst gas waster is to floor it, going up a hill with your a/c running. Turn a/c off when ascending hills & try to get your speed up while on the flat & not on the hill, itself.

This post has been edited by litesong: Aug 6 2013, 03:37 PM