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> Damage and accidents to your Elantra
truantics
post Jan 31 2005, 08:12 PM
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One year ago yesterday, I had a little accident. I was sitting in a parking lot, waiting to go into work, and just as I opened my door some lady pulls into the spot next to me and crunched my door in a bit. Oddly enough, she was driving a Sonata.

I always have my digital camera on me, so I took pictures of the damage and sent them to my insurance agent. The hit really only affected the outer door panel, so a new one of those, some paint, and I was all set. Her damage consisted of nothing more than a broken chrome piece around the fog light and a slight scratch.

My damage (Road salt is gross):


Her damage:


Nothing major, which is good.


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Biff
post Feb 1 2005, 12:49 AM
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I've got a couple door dings, one which really makes me mad. I also backed up into something that only a picture can described, and messed up my rear bumper, not horribly though. I will get some pics as soon as I get some batteries for my camera.


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Kim Park
post Feb 9 2005, 10:20 PM
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Reading these helped me feel a little better about my stupidity today. I parked my 5-speed in a fairly level parking lot today, and forget to set the parking brake and didn't leave the car in gear. When I got back to the car, it had rolled about 40 feet and hit a curb at the end of the parking lot. Didn't appear to affect the alignment, but man am I glad it didn't hit a car or roll into the street!


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silet
post Feb 10 2005, 07:31 AM
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QUOTE (Kim Park @ Feb 9 2005, 10:20 PM)
Reading these helped me feel a little better about my stupidity today.  I parked my 5-speed in a fairly level parking lot today, and forget to set the parking brake and didn't leave the car in gear.  When I got back to the car, it had rolled about 40 feet and hit a curb at the end of the parking lot.  Didn't appear to affect the alignment, but man am I glad it didn't hit a car or roll into the street!
*


My friend and I were working on his car. We screwed up and jacked up the car with no chocks ohmy.gif The car rolled into the garage and hit the siding in between the garage doors. He was lucky he had no damage to the car. The siding was a different story angry-hitselfonhead.gif


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Jonas
post Feb 14 2005, 09:32 AM
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Had an accident in Aug of 03 where my front and back passenger side door panels where damaged; side mouldings and the panels were replaced... Other than that, nothing too major yet (knock on wood) blink.gif


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Bigs
post Feb 18 2005, 11:28 AM
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Oh geez, where do I start. Only one year in and...

1.Major accident, t-boned a Precidia, totalled it and my GT had $2700.00can damage.

2. Sunroof leaking. While repairing it, they leaned on the rook with probably their elbows and dented my roof. They denied the whole thing. angry-hitselfonhead.gif

3. I'm driving at 11:30pm, I'm behind an SUV and the SUV is behing an idiot. The idot decides to put his signal to turn right at a set of lights. The idiot decides to stop at the green light to drop off another idiot. The SUV jams the breaks and avoids him meanwhile my foot slips off my break pedal and I end up off roading the sidewalk to avoid the SUV and the idiot. I ended up with $300.00can of damage.

4. In Montreal Trudeau Airport, I come back from my trip to Guayabitos Mexico, get to my car in the lot and a nice big dent to the rear quarter panel. That is a fixer for srping.

5. Chips on my windsheild and paint.

I think that's it!


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cclngthr
post Mar 4 2005, 12:24 PM
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QUOTE (silet @ Jan 31 2005, 10:08 AM)
Here's the outside visible damage to my car, which was totaled due to frame damage...


*


Silet, is the frame damage primarily in the back?

I found an interesting tidbit about our frames when I installed my trailer hitch.. There is no rail going from the center section to the rear section as far as I can see and no apparent crossmembers in the back, leading me to believe the frame would rack easily. On my car, I saw no rear crossmember or structural steel members between the midsection ahead of the gas tank and right behind the rear wheels. Typically, there should be a crossmember connecting the two side rails at the back as well as in the middle. The front already has the crossmember.


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silet
post Mar 4 2005, 12:51 PM
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QUOTE (cclngthr @ Mar 4 2005, 12:24 PM)
Silet, is the frame damage primarily in the back?


*


Well yes and no. It's from the center to the back. What happened is the floor between the struts and bumper was pulled down at the bumper. This caused the rear body to be pulled down the rest of the car from the sunroof/hatch. Now picture the area between the rear struts. The roof was lowered and the section between the strut tops moved apart. The hatch cover can't stay on and the rear door frames are bent sad.gif If I had a rear strut bar, it would have held the body together, well somewhat kept it together. I just would have felt it more and it have probably still been totaled.

After your description of the lack of frame support, I'm not surprised at the amount of damage I have.


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stauf
post Mar 4 2005, 03:11 PM
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Hmm.. Are there places to put crossmembers in the rear even? Haven't had mine on a rack yet.


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cclngthr
post Mar 4 2005, 07:04 PM
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On the hatch, the structural support is minimal at best, because no support is there at the top of the strut tower, plus little support at that point on the bottom end as well, since there is no structural steel members crossing the area from the gas tank to the part just behind the rear wheel. That is what buckled. A rear strut bar probably would have prevented the strut towers from spreading and made the car more easily repaired. On the sedan, as my car is, the top of the rear strut towers does have a lot of support because there is the top of the trunk area that is welded in there; which prevents it from spreading. However, the bottom end would be problematic because there isn't the structural frame member to support it.

There is a way to add a crossmember right behind the rear wheel, which would support the back end better, but having a connecting frame rail between the back and mid sections might take some finesse to fabricate, but not impossible; which I might try to do.


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silet
post Mar 4 2005, 08:16 PM
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I think a 16 ga c cannel with cut outs for the floor contours would work if you can go in a direct line from the bumper mounts to the lower suspension crossmember. I haven't looked under the car to see if the tank, swaybar, muffler and spare tire well interfere. And yes, the hatch does have a weak rear end!!!


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cclngthr
post Mar 4 2005, 10:05 PM
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I would go with bent square tubing, which is used for the frame, and molded to the contours of the wheel area, against the undercarriage; rather than C channel. I would tie together the center section and rear sections by stitch welding everything together and TIGing the floor area to the square tubing.

I went with heavy gauge C channel on my truck because I wanted some flex, but stiff enough to hold up to the torque of the 572 I have for the engine. Square tubing IMO would break under the stress from the engine torque (which is over 1,000 hp)


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