It was nice to meet you in person today Bob.  Same for your family.  Thanks for the ride, I enjoyed it.  I hope you had fun at Walesboro, and will come back down to hoan your skills some more.  I expect you to smoke Will at the next event, and the Neon before the end of the season!

Some car setup suggestions, though they might not make sense financially or be in line with what you want to do with the Elantra:

Tires - Sizes - 205/45-16 currently, sizes worth considering would be 215/45-16, 225/45-16 and 205/45-16, and 205/50-16 in that order, trying to maximize width without giving up gearing.  I wouldn't go any shorter than 205/45-16, but that seemed to work pretty well.  I was within 100rpm (or less) of redline in 2nd going through the finish lights, and also approaching the garage after the pin turn today.  I would probably avoid 225/50-16 or 205/55-16 as you'll lose to much acceleration.  Get the stickiest thing that fits your budget in one of those above sizes.  The Falken 615 Azenis (215/45) are great, as are the new Bridgestone RE-01R (205/45).  Next tier in appropriate sizes would be Hankook R-S212 (225/45 or 205/50).

Camber plates, or camber bolts, whatever will help you get some more negative camber up front.  You can run up to around -2degs without getting into wear issues with lots of street miles.  I run -2.4deg up front, -1.8deg rear, every day, 100 miles a day.  The additional camber would really help grip in the corners.  As you already know, toe does a lot more damage to the tires on the street than camber does.

Swaybars.  The car balance felt pretty good as is, so I would be inclined to increase both the front and rear bar sizes.  As we discussed, putting in poly bushings with your current swaybars on each end would also help, though obviously to a lesser degree.  This should be pretty simple and pretty cost effective, and again would help speed response in transitions and grip in corners.

Brake pads - don't know what you're running, but I've had great results using Porterfield R4-S pads.  Low dust and noise, good bite, no fade autocrossing.

Springs/shocks - very subjective, but you could probably go a little stiffer without screwing up the ride and that would also help in braking and cornering.  Obviously, you've already got aftermarket springs on and I know it's really frustrating to spend more money to replace what you've already bought.  Given ride and $ considerations, swaybars might be more logical.  Both will make the car faster.  I haven't used them personally, but I'm hearing really good things about the Koni FSD shocks for improved handling with good ride characteristics.  I don't know if they make them for the Elantra yet.

Driving reminders - SMOOTH steering and pedal application!  Think hard about where to shift gears, and shift early or late if need be to try and make the shift when you would already be lifting out of the throttle anway.  Take full advantage of the maximum engine speed in 1st, but don't be afraid to short-shift it to second if that coincides with a turn that you have to lift for.  Keep it slow and really tight on pin turns, and roll onto the gas as you get past the halfway point of the turn if possible.  Get back into the gas as early as possible coming out of garages and turns, though that might require rolling onto the gas instead of hammering it.  Look for advantages when lining up at the start, trying to make as straight a line as possible to the first place you HAVE to turn the car.  Turn in a little earlier in slaloms, and focus on moving the steering wheel slower but sooner to smooth out the transitions.  You should be trying to run over the back side of the cones in slaloms, so that means when you cross the center axis of the slalom you should already be turning the wheel back for the next cone. 

Look for important elements, and adjust your line to take maximize your speed where it counts.  Using today's course as an example, coming back through the funky slalom near the trailer was a key point.  If you exited the element in the right place you could carry 100% throttle all the way down to the entry to the last slalom, which was a long, long way in an autocross.  Thus it was worth it to give up a tiny bit of speed two gates prior to the slalom to help make sure you could get through that key slalom before the trailer in good shape.

Most of all, remember that the car will go faster than you think it can, IF you can maximize the available grip by selecting good lines and making smooth input into the controls.  Don't force it by diving into corners more aggressively, as that will only chew up tires and slow you down, not to mention frustrate you when the times don't improve and you cone.  Smoothness and car placement are key. 

Scott
90SM