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> D2S Headlight Retrofit , DIY Project for HD Elantra by Randy.F
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D2S Headlight Retrofit

by Randy.F

I've been using the Mini H1's with 35 watt HID's for some time and the output was pretty good however they were a little bit small and looked kind of funny in my headlight housing so I decided to upgrade to D2S projectors. I picked up a set of the D2S projectors and Ultra 55W 5500K HID kit from DDM Tuning to see how they look in comparison. The difference between the two was incredible. That was expected considering the two projectors are two very different classes.. meaning the Mini H1 2.5 inch is small and meant to be the easiest to install. While the D2S projector is much bigger at 3 inches and requires a lot more time and patience to install. Also, most Mini H1 projectors are not compatible with 55 watt HID kits. However, DDM has started offering Mini H1 projectors now that can take the heat produced by a 55 Watt Kit.

Special thanks to Tony (@RTLighting) for helping me complete this install... its good to have a 2nd hand when doing this.

This is both a tutorial and my experience installing D2S projectors in my 2010 Hyundai Elantra. I hope you like it. So without further ado...

First things first. For retrofitting I always recommend buying an extra set of headlight housings as mistakes can be made when retrofitting and you definitely want to have a backup available so that you can still drive your car. Trust me.

Supplies Needed

1. Set of the D2S projectors and Ultra 55W HID kit from DDM. "I chose to use 5500K as it resembles a luxury look".

2. Shrouds for your projectors "I chose to use the Range Rover Style Shrouds".

3. Headlight Sealant: ABRO Glue from DDM "used to reseal the headlights after retrofitting".

4. Clips. "Very important". Also used to reseal the headlights after retrofitting and very important to getting a good seal".

5. J-B Weld 8265S Original Steel Reinforced Epoxy "used to lock the projectors into place once you have installed them".

6. Heat gun and flathead screwdrivers "used to heat up and pry apart the factory headlight sealant".

Various other tools - Dremel, drill, step drill bit set and wiring tools and other things.

The Project

Step 1: Remove the headlights from your car.

Note: If this is a different car than mine than you'll need to confirm that the projectors will fit so be sure to do that.

Step 2. Remove the three screws on the back shown in the picture shown below.

Step 3. Use the heat gun and apply a steady stream of heat around the seal till it gets hot and pry the headlight open carefully.

Step 4. Once the headlight is open you will need to get the reflector out. Do this by turning the headlight adjustment screws till it pops out.
Then, using the Step Drill Bit Set and Dremel, drill out the hole and flatten it out til the projector fits in.

Step 5. Once you have a hole properly cut out and the projectors are fitted (without the shrouds), return the reflector back to the housing and start test fitting by installing the HIDs into the projectors. Put the headlights back on the car so that you can aim the projectors and make sure their pointed the right direction and level. This can be done by using the headlight adjustments screws and twisting the projectors while they are installed to get them level. Once everything looks good, tighten down the screws that come on the projectors, Confirm once more that everything looks good.

Step 6. Once everything is all set, carefully take the headlights out of the car. Mix some JB weld, install the shrouds and use a small amount of JB Weld on the shrouds to lock them in. That way, they don't fall off while driving. Then, apply a small amount of JB weld on the back of the projectors to lock them in place. That way, they don't come loose if you go over bumpy roads. Once that's all done give the JB Weld at least 12 hours to dry. After the 12 hours it'll be like concrete. At this point I would install them once more to confirm that everything looks good.

Step 7. Once all that's done now's a good time to wire the projectors solenoid for the high beams to the high beam wiring. I chose to replace my high beams with a DRL and just use the high beams on the projectors. Of course, be sure to test them when done. Once that is all out of the way it's time to close them up. First we need to remove as much of the factory sealant or glue as we can. This can be done by taking the heat gun heating up the leftover glue and using a screwdriver or a putty knife to get as much of the factory glue out as possible. Then use the new "Headlight Sealant: ABRO Glue" from DDM. String it out and pack as much as you can into the gap that the front of the headlight sits in.

Once you've done that, take the heat gun and apply even heat all around the gap, heating up the glue as much as you can. Next, carefully put the front housing back on and try to line it up as evenly as you can with the gap, applying even pressure. Once it's on as good as you can get with your hands, it's time to use the clips. Place the clips (as many as you can) all around the edge. Use the heat gun and heat the seal back up while the clips are on. This will ensure an excellent weather seal. Then, while keeping the clips on let it cool down for a good 4 hours.

Once they've cooled put them on the car and enjoy. - Randy

Last update: Sep 26 2015, 08:46 PM by elantragt    Created: Sep 26 2015, 08:25 PM by elantragt    Edits: 7    Views: 46,144
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