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> ECU reset questions answered
cclngthr
post Sep 9 2006, 04:32 PM
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QUOTE (stauf @ Sep 9 2006, 01:29 PM)
Another thing I've never gotten a full answer to..  Define Drive Cycle.
*


Drive Cycle=Key on, drive for 3-5 miles (normal driving) at speed, making sure you up/downshift from 1-5 and back 5-1 (auto 1-4/4-1) then shut down (key off) then a wait period (I think 1-5 minutes).


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stauf
post Sep 9 2006, 09:27 PM
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Colin to the rescue... Is that a set pattern the ecu has defined as a drive cycle, or are there variables included in the logic? (sorry, programmer in me comming out)


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ricerrx7
post Sep 9 2006, 10:25 PM
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I believe that the in order for the computer to see a full drive cycle, it has to be able to run through all of it's tests. And what colin described is the amount of time needed for this to happen.


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QUOTE (doc1987 @ Aug 29 2007, 02:33 PM)
call me a perfectsiotist but i...
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atlwteboy240
post May 13 2007, 09:16 PM
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i dont really understand the DIY for this what is the swich i didnt see anything tou rurn on or off mabey im jusy a dididi but please help me figure it out.


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RHINESEL
post May 13 2007, 10:14 PM
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What do you need help with, understanding what the ECU is or with the DIY?

The ECU is what people think of as the car's "Computer". It takes a variety of imput signals and adjusts the engine to give the best programmed result. Our ECU's have a learning curve meaning that they also use historical information.

When you do certain modifications you change what these inputs are. For example, a CAI will change the airflow and temperature of the air from a stock airbox setup. Over time, the ECU will adapt to this. If you want to force the ECU to take the new inputs immediately you can "reset" it with a variety of methods.

Some like to reset it before racing events. Reseting it brings it back to factory like (some factory, some historical) settings that give slightly more power to the engine.

The three methods for reseting are as follows:

1. Pull the battery cables and step on the brake pedal.
2. Remove both ECU fuses
3. Add a switch via DIY to turn off the power to the ECU.

Any other questions feel free to ask.

I'm sure I made a mistake in here somewhere, anyone feel free to correct me!


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silet
post May 13 2007, 10:17 PM
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I did tongue.gif


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RHINESEL
post May 13 2007, 10:26 PM
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Where? Don't see it.


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Toecutter
post May 13 2007, 11:09 PM
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Drive Cycle:


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atlwteboy240
post May 14 2007, 05:35 PM
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my question was about the DIY where is the swich in it i didnt see any swich all i saw was taping into fuses and the blue wire. how long do you take out the fuses for or do you just unplug both then put them back in?\


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ricerrx7
post May 14 2007, 05:41 PM
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It was assumed that if you can get that far, then you can figure out how to mount the two wires to a switch. Run the two new wires to where ever you want the switch, and connect them. But you only need to remove the fuses for a few seconds.


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QUOTE (doc1987 @ Aug 29 2007, 02:33 PM)
call me a perfectsiotist but i...
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Midnightsky
post May 14 2007, 08:12 PM
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So in all reality all I have to do is make a break in the blue wire in that specific harness and place any kind of switch in the middle of the break? Makes sence to me, I am an Electronics Engineer Undergradute and as far as I've learned that is the correct way to setup a disruption to the power. Now......ill effects after doing the switch and resetting the ECM alot.......so what are we talking about.....like loss of fuel mileage? The ECM getting fried or just wearing down quickly? (how quickly?) anything i'm missing please fill in cause I'm seriously considering this .......my mods are an SRI w/K&N, deleted second cat, baffled res, dynomax muffler.......future (next 2-5 months) PnP IM w/Phenolic spacer, Fidanza flywheel, upgrade exhaust pipe from stock-2.5inch.


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ricerrx7
post May 14 2007, 08:23 PM
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You just completely compexified the simpleness of "wire in a switch". LOL
The one downside that has been mentioned is that is has the possibility of killing the cat. The ECM learns the fuel trim and leans out the fuel to accomodate for emissions. So everytime you reset the ECU it runs a little bit richer than what is intended. Running raw fuel through the cat can cause degredation and eventually kill it. But as long as you don't reset it everytime you start the car, I can't really see this becoming a problem.

Loss of fuel mileage? That's debatable, as some people have actually claimed better mileage after a reset. No harm to the ECU itself, unless you do a really bad job of wiring.

I've got the switch installed (obviously), and have had no problems with it. Granted, I've used it like 3 times in the last year...


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QUOTE (doc1987 @ Aug 29 2007, 02:33 PM)
call me a perfectsiotist but i...
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