I've decided to keep the site online for the foreseeable future as a reference for Elantra owners. If you'd like to help with costs or still believe in this resource, please use the Donate link to help out. Thank you.
ElantraClub - for all generations

Welcome Guest ( Log In | Register )

Amazon · Advance Auto · Newegg · Ebay 

Recent edits
Shark Racing Cr... by elantragt
  Dec 25 2016, 09:01 PM
Audio Buying ti... by elantragt
  Dec 23 2016, 03:16 PM
Basic cleaning ... by elantragt
  Dec 22 2016, 12:05 PM
Adding LED'... by elantragt
  Dec 22 2016, 11:57 AM
Solid Motor Mou... by elantragt
  Dec 22 2016, 11:46 AM
Body color head... by elantragt
  Dec 22 2016, 11:41 AM

Stats
Our members have created a total of 138 articles in 13 categories.

A total of 602 edits have been made and our articles have been viewed 1,083,439 times

> Alarm Install DIY for XD , by Karrde
Options V
This will be a comprehensive alarm installation DIY which I have written specifically for my 2001 Hyundai Elantra VE. The installation should apply pretty much directly to all 2001-2003 XD’s. The wiring on 2004-2006 XD2’s may be slightly different, but the process should be similar.

I’ve separated this DIY into several sections to make it easier to understand.

• Resources and Component Selection
• Installation Part 1: Door Actuator
• Installation Part 2: Trunk Actuator
• Installation Part 3: Engine Compartment and Wiring Through Firewall
• Installation Part 4: Interior Sirens and Other Components
• Installation Part 5: Alarm Module Preparation
• Installation Part 6: Alarm Module Installation
• Alarm Programming


Why do this myself?

Overall cost is obviously a big benefit. Doing all the wiring yourself will get you more comfortable and knowledgeable about the electrical systems in the car. You can also set up the alarm in what is known as a “stealth” install. This means that the alarm brain is well hidden (as opposed to the typical just-under-the-dash location) and all associated wiring is concealed in split loom to make it look “factory”. A well done stealth install should be difficult for even the installer to defeat quickly. The downside to this is of course time, and you will pay a lot for a professional to do a proper stealth install (I’ve read figures of anywhere from $400-$700 just for labour thrown around).

How difficult is this?

If you can understand basic schematics, know how to use a multimeter and can handle a soldering iron with some skill, you’re in good shape.

Time Required

This is really dependant on the person. It took me about a week's worth of research and working in the evenings plus 4 full days. This is largely because there was no real specific information for the Elantra out there and I had never done anything like this before and I'm a very cautious person when it comes to working on cars (meaning I go slow and triple check everything). I guess the benefit to my slow approach was that when it was done pretty much everything worked perfectly right away. On the other hand, if I'd had a guide like this one available to me from the start I'd say I could have done it in less than half the time.

Supplies:

• 12, 16 and 18/20 gauge wiring of various colours and lengths
• Heatshrink tubing
• 2 rolls of electrical tape
• Split loom (I think I got 6 ft of 1/2", 3/4" and 1" diameter loom)
• 3 or more 1A diodes (1N4001)
• 3 or more 12v 30a SPDT relays (may need more depending on install)
• Solder (I used 0.8mm 60/40 Rosin-core solder from The Source)

Tools:

• Set of sockets
• Set of drill bits + a drill
• Screwdrivers
• Pliers, wire cutters
• Soldering iron (a good 35w for heavy gauge wires, with a fine tip)
• Razor blade
• Automatic wire strippers (MUST have, will save you hours)



Resources and Component Selection

The first step in any DIY work this serious is research. I found a number of great online resources which I will share here:
http://www.honda-tech.com/forumdisplay.php?f=27 Some great threads here which can be applied to any car. Two of the better threads I found are listed below:
http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2108744
http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2368830
----
http://causeforalarm.thecarthing.com/version7/index.html Excellent walkthroughs on stealth alarm installs for Hondas/Acuras. Also good info on various kill switches.
http://www.commandocaralarms.com/wiring/20...lantra/747.html Good wiring diagrams specific to 01-03 Hyundai Elantras.
http://alarmtek.tripod.com/RELAYORIGINAL.html#top A whole wack of wiring diagrams for different applications

Electrical Shop Manual - This proved to be invaluable throughout my install for locating various electrical connections and to understand the circuits I was tapping into. Available on eBay and an electronic copy here:

http://www.4shared.com/file/216244862/d404babc/elantra.html




The next step is choosing an alarm and accessories. The pages I linked above include many rundowns of different alarms and their features so I’ll just list what I went with. The one recommendation I do have is to stick with DEI; they are the parent company for Viper, Clifford, Python and many others and seem to make quality products. Also, I bought my alarm, extras and supplies from http://www.sonicelectronix.com, and I highly recommend them (especially for Canadian buyers, they have a great selection and very good cross-border shipping).

My choices:

Python 872 Responder LE – This seemed to be the best compromise between features and price in a two way alarm without an LCD. This model is, as far as I can tell, exactly the same as the Viper 5701 and the Clifford Matrix 3.3x. The only difference is the style of the remotes, the electronics are identical. The Python model was cheapest, so I went with that.

Extras:

DEI 520T Backup Battery – Perhaps the second most important thing to purchase after the alarm itself is a backup battery. An alarm is useless without power which can be disrupted by disconnecting the main battery.
DEI 506T Glass Break Audio Sensor – This will detect the sound made by breaking glass that might otherwise go unnoticed by the shock sensor in the alarm.
DEI 513T Mini Piezo Siren – This is a miniature siren designed to be mounted inside the car somewhere and used as a pain generator. If the thief cuts the main siren, he will still have to contend with this sucker inside. It is loud as ****.
DEI 507M Tilt Sensor – Most people also include a tilt sensor with their install; I did not because I’m a cheap bastard. Plus I’m not particularly worried about my Elantra getting illegally towed. I can always add it in at a later date. I would recommend this if you have a nice set of rims though.

------------------------------------------------

Installation Part 1: Door Actuator

This applies if, like me, you have an Elantra with power locks but no keyless entry. My stock lock system has actuators on all the doors except for the driver’s door. This one is operated manually, and its position (either locked or unlocked) determines the position of the rest of the doors (otherwise known as central locking). If you have keyless entry, all four doors will have lock actuators already installed (and you will need to tap into the ETACS wires). If you have neither keyless entry nor power locks, you will need to install actuators on all four doors. This does complicate things somewhat, but not as much as you’d think. You can use this install as a template for the other three doors.

Step 1: Remove the door panel. You will need to at least partially remove the vapour barrier. I completely removed mine since I was going to replace it anyway.


Step 2: Locate and strip the black lock cable. The lock cable itself is sheathed in a triple layer black casing. First there’s some black insulation on the outside, then below that some braided steel. This was tricky to cut through, and be careful when using your wire cutters as pieces of this stuff will fly everywhere. Below that there was a stiff white plastic casing. I used a knife to carefully cut a 2” section of this off. You do NOT want to cut the relatively thin lock cable inside it. Why Hyundai had to make this so damn complicated is beyond me. Proceed slowly and you’ll be fine. Some pictures:


Step 3: Mount the actuator. Care has to be taken here so that it will not interfere with the power window or prevent the door panel from being reinstalled. There was just barely enough room where I mounted it, and I had it sitting as close to the window mechanism as possible without hitting it. The brackets pictured are supplied with the actuator. I had to drill a couple holes through the door panel to mount the bracket. Use a bit of oil to lubricate your drill bit when drilling through sheet metal like this, especially if it’s thick. Also roll your window all the way up when drilling so you don’t hit it with the drill bit when you pierce through the metal.



Step 4: Cut the actuator rod to length, and attach it to the lock cable. The actuator comes with a small metal bracket for attaching the actuator rod to the lock cable. The screws supplied with mine were too short to clamp onto the very thin lock cable, so I had to find some longer ones. When this is done, test fit your door panel back on to make sure it clears the actuator. I had to cut away a section of the brown soundproofing material stuck to the door panel to make it fit.


Step 5: Wiring. This part is pretty tricky. First remove the speaker from the driver's door. This will give you access to the rubber boot which runs all wires from the door to the interior of the vehicle.


Gently work the boot free of the door by pushing it out towards the door hinges. You will notice the boot runs to the interior of the car and comes out somewhere behind the driver's kick panel.


There is a small plastic piece held in with two 10mm bolts which covers up the door harness connectors. Remove it and you should see a smallish square hole with two wire harnesses running inside it.


At this point I reached in (with great difficulty) and removed both door harnesses only to find a large white connector completely blocking access to the rubber boot. I then noticed a small unused rubber grommet just above the connector which would allow me to route the wires through to the door.


Remove the grommet and drill a small hole to allow the wires to run through. I also dabbed a bit of silicone sealant on the inside to prevent water leaking in.


I used a coat hanger to poke a couple of holes through the rubber door boot and run the wires inside the door. After that it's just a matter of routing them to your actuator. Use zip ties to ensure they don't interfere with the window mechanism.


Wires wrapped in duct tape and everything put back together. Not pretty, but it works.


You should get in the habit of winding wires together that go to the same place to keep things tidy. Tighten the chuck of your drill over the wires you want to wrap together, hold them tight and pull the trigger.


Final door shot:


------------------------------------------------

Installation Part 2: Trunk Actuator

The trunk actuator was rather simple compared to the door, probably due to the extra space you have to work with. I was forced to buy my actuator locally (probably a mistake, as it cost me $80). As you can see from the picture, it's much heavier-duty than the door actuator. Not sure if 35-pounds of force is actually necessary here, but I don't think the door actuator would have had enough "oomph".


Step 1: Remove the panel covering the trunk release mechanism. It pulls up with some force after you remove the two plastic tabs. You can also remove the plastic tabs holding the right side of the interior moulding in place.


Step 2: Place the actuator. I mounted it using the two included screws and some plastic spacers.


Step 3: Run and adjust cabling. I used one of those adjustable screw clamps (available from a local alarm installation shop) to secure the actuator cable to the factory trunk release cable. There was just enough room here to allow the trunk to release.


Step 4: Run wiring. You can see here where I secured the ground to one of the bolts holding the tail light assembly. The +12v white wire is run forward to the alarm module location...


...via the foam-stuffed hole behind the back seats. This "shoulder" section of the seats is removed by taking out the single 14mm bolt at the bottom just behind the lower cushion.



------------------------------------------------


Installation Part 3: Engine Compartment and Wiring Through Firewall

At this point the siren and hood pin will be mounted in the engine compartment, and their wiring routed back inside the car. The hood pin sets off the alarm if the hood is opened while the system is armed.

Step 1: Mount the hood pin. There's already an unused hole drilled on top of the driver's side headlamp which fits this perfectly.


Remember to sand off the paint around the hole where the switch is mounted to ensure good contact with ground. After installing the siren, route it's wires and the hood pin wire through the firewall (shown in step 3).


Step 2: Mount siren. I chose to mount the siren on the back lower side of the stock air intake box. This is not exactly a hidden location but it is well away from the hot areas of the engine. I drilled two small holes on the lower part of the airbox to mount it (obviously don't drill any holes in the upper half of the air intake).



The siren has six tones when it's triggered. The box the siren comes in gives you multiple options for removing whichever tones you want. I went for the "European" option which eliminates all but the first siren tone (cut the black looping wire). This is obviously down to personal preference. Route the wiring underneath the airbox, inside some split loom. The manual says to run both ground and power all the way back inside, but it really doesn't make any difference. Find a bolt somewhere in the engine compartment and ground the siren there.

Step 3: Run wiring through the firewall. There are a number of guides around on where exactly to go through the firewall, I elected to use the grommet in the driver's side wheel well. It's best to remove the left front wheel so you can completely remove the wheel well liner. This allows you to route the wires alongside the factory harness coming from the headlights.


The picture below is looking back towards the driver's seat from the left wheel well. This rubber boot can be worked free and it leads directly into the cabin just forward of the driver's kick panel (beside the ECU). I took off the factory electrical tape covering the outside part of the boot and routed my wiring through the boot with a coat hanger. Takes some doing, but after re-taping, it's just as weatherproof as stock. There's lots of wiggle room in this boot as well, probably enough for some 0 gauge wire if you needed it for an amp or something. Run the wires inside the car and to the alarm module location.


------------------------------------------------


Installation Part 4: Interior Sirens and Other Components

In this phase we will place the interior "Piezo" siren, the antenna, the valet button and the backup battery (if you added a larger one).

Step 1: Piezo Siren. This siren is great because it's small enough to be hidden practically anywhere yet loud enough to dislodge any earwax you've accumulated since birth. I elected to place this in the driver's side vent since it's difficult to access and it doesn't disrupt airflow much. Hot glue works well enough to secure it in there.


Run the red wire to your alarm module location and the black wire to any convenient factory grounded bolt. Good idea to run the red wire inside some split loom to conceal it a little (though this should be done with ANY alarm wiring if possible).

Step 2: Antenna. I mounted my antenna up high just in front of the rear view mirror as shown. Note that putting it near window tinting can reduce range so keep it away from any of that if possible.


Run the antenna wire along the headliner (it pulls down easily) and to the driver's A pillar. Remove the plastic trim on the A pillar. This is a little tricky, try gently prying from the top until you can get a good finger hold of it and pull down with some force, it should pop out. Run the wiring along the exposed pillar down to the fuse box and then to your alarm module location.


Step 3: Valet button. On the Responder LE series of alarms the valet button comes integrated into the antenna along with the LED. While this is a good place for the LED, the valet button should be concealed if possible (since a thief could theoretically disarm the system by hotwiring the ignition and tapping the valet button). I went down to a local alarm installer's shop and picked up a DEI pushbutton valet switch for a couple bucks. Any small normally-open switch will do, though you will need a connector for the valet port on the alarm module. I put my switch on the driver's right-side kick panel. Not hidden, but somewhat concealed and convenient. I may move it later. I routed the wiring under the carpet and to the alarm module.


Step 4: Backup battery. As I was finishing my alarm install I quickly discovered that the battery included in the DEI 520T kit was totally dead, even after charging overnight. From some research, this is a fairly common issue. If it does work, it may not last all that long. So I went down to my local auto parts store and picked up the smallest 12v rechargeable battery they had. Unfortunately it was at least 3 times the size of the 520T's battery, so I had to figure out another location for it.


I ended up putting it just behind the HVAC controls in the centre console. Not sure if it will stay here since it's a little too accessible. This is also the only real alternative place to put the alarm brain without completely dismantling the dash.




***to be continued***

Last update: Apr 1 2010, 10:21 PM by elantragt    Created: Apr 1 2010, 10:12 PM by elantragt    Edits: 7    Views: 5,041
Print article  Download MSWord version  Download txt version
Visit this article's discussion topic

RSS 2017 The Hyundai Elantra Club    
Time is now: 17th November 2019 - 12:46 AM
Elantra Club is not affiliated in any way with Hyundai Motor America