I had a dream the other morning. I have recently gone to a shorty intake ( I will spare all the reasons why for now). Well, the down side of this is that it draws in engine bay air which is obviously warmer which is bad. The key then is to get cold air to the shorty filter.

I don't have my digi camera right now so I will hold of making it until I get it back (Jan 2 or 3), But here is what I plan.

Take 6" round heat duct and make a canister where the connecting end of the k&n filter sticks out one end which has a flat cap on it. The other end will have a 6" to 4" reducer. The 4" reducer will have 4" flexible tubing used for dryer exhaust duct attached to it and the tubing will run to an area under the car or into the front fascia to pickup the cold air. Because I have the GT with the fog lights, I cannot run the duct to there like could be done on a GLS, but I will try to find an area that will force air into the box.

My only concern is on initial wide open throttle, whether there will be enough air in the box/tube so it will not starve. I don't mean starve like it will choke the engine out, only that it will restrict the air flow to the point that there will be no net gain.

Thoughts and opinions?

Oh, also the temp of the can can be control with insulation so I don't think that will be an issue.
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oiml8,

I had a dream too...BUT is wasn't about that....hehehehehe

Sounds like a neat idea to me! I don't see any reason from your explanation why it wouldn't work!

I wonder if you could use the cold air feed from the tube in front of the battery? Or do you want to get it from elsewhere? Insulation would be good idea! I don't think the engine will "starve" as I think with a decent feed of air, enough will remain in the pipe to provide the results desired!

Great idea...hope to see it in action soon! -F1guy68

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I will only say that there is a design like that being worked on right now. That is all I will say for the moment. If everything comes together it will be avaliable to purchase in the future.

I have taken it one step further by implementing a track only add on. That add on will be a figerglass intake funnel that will be mounted in place of the right headlight assembly. The rest of the time the air will simple be drawn from a flexible tube routed to the fender. -JMontigny
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I assume it be "manufactured" instead of "rigged" like mine will be.

I hate the thought of something ugly under my hood but it is for performance and not for show.

And removing the headlight assembly for track use is genius. It is very easy to remove, plus you get a much better ram effect with it being right on the flatest part of the front end. -oiml8
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oiml8, Jay has been working on a air filter set up kind of like what you dreamed about. He even designed and made and used a system. It was a little ugly(sorry Jay), but looked like it would work as good or better than a short ram or a CAI( uhh, by the way, how did that work out for you Jay?). If this new set up Jay is talking about is being made by the person I think it is, it should turn out great. All the power if not more than a CAI, without the noise or worry about deep puddles. Once again, Jay, please keep us updated on this project

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I saw the one he made of wood and the black flex pipe. I think he ran those to the GLS foglike light area. Is this the one you're talking about JPJR?

Also, any input on wide open throttle take off from stand still and the volume of air needed. That is really my only concern. It certainly woun't be worse than stock, but of course I'm looking for better than that.

It also may be possible to make this from furnace pipe, the double walled stuff. This may work as an insulator (even though it works the opposite way it its standard application), thereby eliminating the need for insulated wrap. More money though. -oiml8
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The wood one worked great and had plenty of air supply from the two hoses.

I can't wait until later this winter to see if this new one comes together. Make sure if you do something that you use at least a 2.5" supply hose to the filter. -JMontigny
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Yeah, it's 4". If there is enough air being forced in, I think it should it should maintain a pretty good volocity. I think I may run it down to the lower vented area under the front bumper. I may get one of those funnel-like duct pieces. I hate to have something so fugly. I will paint it, but I would rather have something like it in plastic. It sounds like you've had something made to put in the headlight opening.

I also though about running something to the fascia area that the CAI's run to. Maybe cut the plastic and put a funnel something there. With the 4" pipe and the can/box, I don't think there should be a problem with water, unless it is sitting underwater. But still that is an aweful big (4") hose to have completely filled with water all the way to the IM. I hope I'm smart enough to shut the car off if I'm in that situation. We don't flood around here so it would be extremely rare anyway.

Thought: Don't Ford trucks use a large round canister-like air box? I wonder if this could be used? Not with the oem filter but with a k&n style. HMM. bet you can get them from a junk yard pretty cheap. -oiml8
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The time is nearing. I had hopes for a ram air effect with my set up, however, after reading some techinical data, it appears that this is a fantasy in all but the fastest of automibles. Only over about 150mph will there be any distinguishable effect.

Secondly, there has been some discussion about a venturi effect created by a tapering of the intake tube. i know that there are some very well know manufacturers that use this technology. I am frankly suspicious of this. There are many reasons for this, but the bottom line is that the venturi effect will not force more air molecules into the intake and the velocity increase is negligable.

I believe the biggest benefit is from the reduction of drag in the intake system after the filter and bringing in the coolest possible air. Idealy, a filter attached directly to the tb with a CAI drawing in air that feeds the filter is best.

Our car will not allow for this exact set up. My design will come as close to this as possible.

Ultimately, we'll have to wait and see. -oiml8
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Keep the ideas coming.

I think there are many of us who are close to having the best setup. I think that there is a good number of us who have a pretty good idea of what we need in the way of an intake to produce the best numbers with low noise. Now it will just be a matter of who can put together the best design for the most reasonable price. -JMontigny
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Jay & Scott, I know I'm like a lot of guys here. I know the GT's stock intake is strangled but I want an intake with minimal sound increase. I also know if one of you can produce a quiet, well designed custom intake, at a reasonable price, a lot of folks would buy it, me included. Scott, could you imagine the "Elantra GT Club Intake" being sold at the club's store? Now you both get crackin'!!! -elantragt
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I think that that's a major problem with Elantra (and Hyundai aftermarket in general) aftermarket stuff. Look at the delay between the announcement of the Shark CAI & catback and the actual release date. A lot of folks probably gave up waiting and bought something else. Look at the H.A.R.D. delay... (I hear maybe April/May now).

I'd love to get a quiet, efficient custom intake, but how far off are we talking before any of them might really be sold, if ever? -elantragt
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A thought on the inlet location for the GT's...

Couldn't it simply be placed behind the far right upper corner of the air dam?
-elantragt

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I am thinking about running 3" PVC pipe out from my air box to the front bumper. I found a plastic part, actually an attachment for a ridgid shop-vac, that would work great as a funnel(air dam thing)(HOME DEPOT). What is everyone's views on PVC, I hear some say it is not good with heat. But I think that if it is in the fender well and pretty much outside of the engine bay then it should be fine. Home Depot also has 3" alluminum flex pipe but doesn't AL conduct heat well??? I guess it would heat up and cool down quicker so that might be better than PVC which may heat up slow but take forever to cool off.

What is everybody else using for at-home intake mods -pegcitygt

I found this fun little calculator searching the net. Although it says "rear wheel horsepower" I think we can apply it to our cars. Have fun!

Poor Man's Dynomometer!

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2650lbs, 130whp and everything matches up with my 1/4 mile -JMontigny

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cool! - southpawboston

Ok, I got mine in last night. It took me a while to get it on but the hard work paid off. Gains are noticed throughout the powerband, and esp. at the higher rpm's. it does fit our car but some slight modifications are necessary. If you want the intake to go into the wheel well, what I did, you will need to cut some metal. Not alot, but enough for the pipe to fit. The only other mod that is necessary is to relocate the battery. I have mine angled and tied down at the moment, but i have plans to relocate it to the trunk as soon as I can get the necessary equiptment. If there is enough interest for a DIY i will be happy to post one, with pics. The biggest problem with this intake is the fact that you will have to cut a bit of it off to fit into the wheel well. also a question for the experts here, has anyone experienced water problems with their intakes??? thanks for the help with that and let me know what everyone thinks about the accord intake!! -rugarip
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1- bending the fender metal is easier
2- no batery relocation is needed, just have to make correct adjustments.
3- you can either cut the end of the pipe in the fender well or use a shorter filter (as most ebay intakes come with a shitty one anyways) Although you can >squeeze< it in without doing so
4- my intake has never touched water.

thats the final say hehe -carbon77
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what kind of adjustments did you make to keep your battery in the engine compartment? mine is tied down right now, doesnt look too good. -rugarip
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theres a couple areas to make those adjustments, fender hole area, enlarge more and the piping itself can then be twisted or shimmied over to allow space -carbon77
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unless you live in a flood plain and have serious puddles, standing water and the like, or if you drive into a pond, river, or lake, you will have no problem. The only issue may be that you choke the air off from the engine because the filter gets soaked with water and won't let air through. I made a splash gaurd for mine out of aluminum and attached it to the small "bitch" bolt/nut behind the headlight that everybody has had probs with. -oiml8

Here's the deal:

A member sent in a very well written idea for a DIY intake mod w/pics. I was going to post it but have some concerns that this setup may be disasterous if folks live in areas prone to heavy rain and flooding. I want members opinion on wheter this is worthwhile to publish at the site or too risky. Or could it be labeled as "A dry weather intake mod"

Here's the mod:
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This mod isn’t about reinventing the wheel by any means. It came about, as I was following the “Easy Air Intake Mod” in the DIY section. Once I tore into the project, it seemed to me there had to be a better way to place this decent size, flexible inlet hose that did nothing but wrap down one side the battery and up the other side into a small confined space behind the driver side headlight that barely has any air flow, if any.



Tools needed: 10mm socket wrench, cross head screwdriver, drill & zip ties



First start by taking off the air filter cover and removing the inlet tube in the top of the cover as described in the “Easy Air Intake Mod”.

Remove the three bolts from the bottom of the filter case and detach from the air intake top inlet tube.

The plastic air intake shield is attached by three plastic screws that when removed, reveal end of the air intake tube located between the battery and the driver side headlight.
Pull the plastic tube end off and remove the one bracket bolt holding the flexible tube in place.

Push the tube down behind the radiator hose. There is a plastic shield there bolted to the frame.

I ended up drilling (2) sets of two holes in the plastic shield. One set to secure the plastic inlet end to the flexible tube with zip ties. The other set of holes keeps the flexible tube from rubbing against the radiator hose (secured with more zip ties).

Reassemble everything else back together in reverse order.

As you can see it is relatively easy to face the air inlet forward and hang just low enough to get a good flow of air into the system. Even with a standard air filter the power increase in the higher gears is very noticeable (I have a 5 speed manual), especially on the open road acceleration is dramatic.
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In the photos he provided the hose ends up all the way down below the front air dam. Isn't this awfully low and almost certain to get water in it?
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That is where mine will end up being. Only I will have a sort of scoop so to funnel air into the hose.

It really depends upon the size of the hose and whether the hose opening is completely submerged under water and for how long. In order for water to get all the way to the IM the tube must be completely filled to the filter. That is a lot of water and a lot of suction. My new air box will have an air tube inlet at 4 inches in diameter, up to the canister which is 6 inches in diameter. Also I don't live in any sort of flood area.
I don't think that I will ever have a problem with water reaching the IM, even driving through deep puddles.

I you live in an area prone to flooding, you shouldn't do this kind of modification because the hose could be submerged for an extended period of time. You're better off with a shorty over a CAI too.

A clear supplemental warning (the DIY section already has warnings) would probably be prudent, but I don't think that members should be kept from this kind of info. Most of us don't have to worry about flooding. - oiml8
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Can we see the pic of the inlet? - JMontigny
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Here's the pic Jay:



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Certainly a good idea for a performance mod... but living here in florida with the random heavy rain we get... i personally would not do it... but for those who live in areas where it is typically dry and where they do not got a whole lot of rain.. i think this would be a very good alternative for a CAI... but again i would have to agree with the concerns of hydrolock... it seems water would be easily able to get into the air inlet.. cause of course the intake is nothing but an oversize vacuum!! all it would take is a big puddle in front of you... or a mack truck to scream through a puddle and splash water directly into the intake!! -kmr327
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All you would have to do is install an AEM Bypass Valve. That way if water gets sucked up, it will simply go out through the bypass valve and not get into the engine. Correct me if i'm wrong - gt123321
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The AEM valve will only function if that hose is submerged under water... I think that is alittle low, almost acting as a scoop to force water into the engine, which the bypass valve will do nothing in that case.

The valve does not let water out, when there is a compleate blockage, (totaly under water) it opens and then alows air to be sucked into the engine from under the hood (where the valve is) instead of the water..... - RShack

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The photo Mitch posted seems problematic to me even in non flood areas. The pipe looks sub 3 inches. Plus it is lower than the fascia. I think this design poses some real dangers even with moderate rain fall.

I think that this mod would be better posted and discussed with it's creator before admitted to the DIY section. Not for liability issues but for whether is is even a good design or idea in the first place.

Nothing against the member, but I'd like to see this debated first. Maybe he can shead some light on it from his experiences.-oiml8

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The whole filter or the whole mouth of the tube in this case would have to be submerged. Not the whole intake itself, but the whole opening, which in most cases will not happen anyway, rendering the bypass valve pretty much useles....unless of course you drive in a puddle or lake thats 2 feet deep....or however high up your CAI filter sits in the fender. - RShack

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I know I had this displayed in another thread, and I know the general consensus is that a CAI will provide better airflow than this mod I did, but it is along the same lines as what was described in the first post on this thread, minus the resonator. Plus it's cheap and looks stock.



What I've drawn here is what I have in my '04 and could be extended to allow the inlet to come from almost anywhere (for the '01-'03 models), and maintain the 3-inch diameter. -ASC04GT

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now with that idea how about if you put the cone filter on the end of the elbow and remove the stock filter. i wonder what that would do? - luckydvl

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I would not put any intake spout under the car like that. I think you are asking for trouble when it comes to water. The inlet should be in the fenderwell area or in the engine compartment.

You could put it up if you want but place a warning about a high chance for water intake. -JMontigny