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ElantraClub - For Elantra Owners and Enthusiasts _ Power Zone _ 1.8 cam install
Posted by: ElMurcielago Oct 13 2014, 04:46 PM
I've herd a lot about the 1.8 intake can giving a bump in power on the 2.0. I've read instructions on how the Install should be but it doesn't go in depth and I don't want to risk breaking anything or doing something wrong without a little extra guidance. Just really more details about the removal of the stock cam and what all to remove loosen etc.
Posted by: slowgls Oct 13 2014, 05:03 PM
Remove old, Install new. I would replace the valve cover gasket too.
Posted by: ElMurcielago Oct 13 2014, 05:22 PM
Honestly that's what I thought it was, but I feel really skeptical about it because it sounds so easy. I remember going to a junk yard one day and saw an Elantra with the valve cover off, besides timing belt, I saw a chain connection both cams and whatever else held down the cam.
Posted by: bhorste Oct 13 2014, 07:08 PM
Yeah, that's about it.
Posted by: trololololo Oct 14 2014, 11:11 AM
dont forget to immobilize the harmonic capacitor and turn the 4 flow control sensors to 17 degrees BTD.
if you have a missionary position sensor you MUST use assembly lube on old shaft!
Posted by: ElMurcielago Oct 14 2014, 06:44 PM
if you have a missionary position sensor you MUST use assembly lube on old shaft!
I died laughing on the missionary position sensor and after.
Posted by: ElMurcielago Oct 14 2014, 08:15 PM
Right before I start, would it be best to do this with premium gas in the tank? Or is regular alright?
Posted by: slowgls Oct 14 2014, 08:28 PM
Regular gas.
Posted by: 2000J25SP Oct 14 2014, 08:35 PM
It's pretty straightforward. Just make sure everything is put back into time.
Here are some pictures and tips:
Camshaft timing marks
There needs to be 5 chain links between the timing marks on the camshafts.
Use adjustable wrench the adjust camshaft timing.
Remember there are two rotations of the crankshaft for every one turn of the camshaft. So even if the crankshaft timing mark is in the correct position, it could be 180 degrees out of time. You will need to put the engine in top dead center. start by pulling the cylinder 1 spark plug. stick a long screwdriver into the spark plug hole to feel the position of the piston. Rotate crank by hand until cyl 1 is at the top of it's stroke.
(cylinder # 1 is the farthest from the transmission) 
It's important that you rotate the engine by hand before you start the engine.
I did notice a bit more midrange power after the install.
i8acobra dyno tested before and after the 1.8 intake camshaft. He gained about 3-4 whp
Posted by: ElMurcielago Oct 14 2014, 08:40 PM
Here are some pictures and tips:
Camshaft timing marks
There needs to be 5 chain links between the timing marks on the camshafts.
Use adjustable wrench the adjust camshaft timing.
Remember there are two rotations of the crankshaft for every one turn of the camshaft. So even if the crankshaft timing mark is in the correct position, it could be 180 degrees out of time. You will need to put the engine in top dead center. start by pulling the cylinder 1 spark plug. stick a long screwdriver into the spark plug hole to feel the position of the piston. Rotate crank by hand until cyl 1 is at the top of it's stroke. (cylinder # 1 is the farthest from the transmission)
You just saved me from giving myself a headache on what might have been the second easiest thing in my life
Posted by: ElMurcielago Oct 15 2014, 09:40 AM
So I'm kinda stuck, I removed all the bolts from the valve cover, but when I try to pick it up it gets stuck as if it's being blocked. Why's that?
EDIT: Figured out why
Posted by: trololololo Oct 15 2014, 10:39 AM
lol... if you have the time (pardon the pun)
pick up a tiburon 2.0 adjustable cam gear... dont adjust it
but its like 4 lbs lighter than stock cam gear.
Posted by: ElMurcielago Oct 15 2014, 12:31 PM
Installation was a success!! Reseted the ECU and what scared me was the lack to start but when I got it to start it felt and sounded great! I feel relieved now.
Posted by: slowgls Oct 15 2014, 12:50 PM
Good to hear. Now enjoy thenew found power.
Posted by: ElMurcielago Oct 15 2014, 12:53 PM
Will do! But before I start punching away at every empty road, would I need to do some drive cycle first to break it in?
Posted by: slowgls Oct 15 2014, 02:10 PM
Drive it tell the wheels fall off.
Posted by: ElMurcielago Oct 15 2014, 02:55 PM
Jaja alright. I'll see what happens.
Posted by: trololololo Oct 15 2014, 05:22 PM
makes me want some cams.
Posted by: ElMurcielago Oct 15 2014, 09:58 PM
I say do it. Originally what I was going to do was get remachined cams but the fact that there'd be no one to tune it kind of pushed that back. I mean of course if you want to cam it.
Posted by: ElMurcielago Oct 18 2014, 06:27 PM
Alright, after having some time with it, I would say it's a good mod. I haven't any problems with it and I'd say it's worth being inserted. Downside is after having some fun my wheel bearing started to go bad. Will get that fixed asap.
Posted by: trololololo Oct 18 2014, 08:20 PM
omg which one??? if its front i think its easier to just get whole hub assembly.
Posted by: Silentwolf Oct 18 2014, 11:22 PM
^ Its separate up front. Ya have to get them pressed in.
Posted by: ElMurcielago Oct 18 2014, 11:38 PM
Front driver, it's what I'm gonna do. Looked into the whole process of it on the replacement and thought 'it'd be hell of a lot easier to go get the hub from the junkyard'. Might not be the most safest route. But it's easier. Might replace the bearing on the old hub (once done swapping) another time.
Posted by: Silentwolf Oct 19 2014, 12:32 AM
Don't. Trust me on this, You'll be better off just buying the new bearing (a Timken or such from Rockauto) and getting it pressed in.
Posted by: ElMurcielago Oct 19 2014, 08:51 AM
Well if you say so. Where could I get it pressed in at? Can any shop do it?
Posted by: bhorste Oct 19 2014, 01:10 PM
Any suspension/front end shop should have a press and be able to press out the old/press in the new.
Posted by: ElMurcielago Oct 19 2014, 01:56 PM
Alright. Thanks for the help, I'll search around to see if there is one around or ask around.
Posted by: Silentwolf Oct 19 2014, 04:18 PM
Aye, both used knuckles i got for the swap had bearings that needed to be replaced. And then had to replace one of those again this past spring (cheap ebay bearing, got Timkens this time)
I wound up doing the second round myself with a bearing press kit from Harbor Freight. Replaced both the hub and bearing with the kit for less than the shops wanted for just the bearing.
Posted by: ElMurcielago Nov 2 2014, 04:24 PM
Update for everyone. Got my wheel bearing replaced and alignment done. I have fully enjoyed the power gain from the cam, only thing I don't like about it is at low revs feels very sluggish until at 2.5. Other than that great mod for the extra kick.
Posted by: bhorste Nov 2 2014, 06:50 PM
That's the double-edged sword of mods like that. You're going to give up a bit but you'll gain more once you get it into its wheelhouse. Have you opened up the intake at all?
Posted by: 2000J25SP Nov 2 2014, 07:13 PM
The problem with performance cams is the longer duration moves the powerband higher causing a loss of low end power.
However, the 1.8 cam has the exact same duration (232*) as the 2.0 cam. The difference is increased lift, which means more air throughout the powerband, which does not cause a loss of low end power.
When I researched the 1.8 cam before buying one, I read like 30+ threads on this and not a single person reported a loss of low end.
I'm going to go out on a limb and say it's either in your head, or your timing is too advanced, which will cause a loss of low end power.
Posted by: ElMurcielago Nov 7 2014, 09:44 AM
However, the 1.8 cam has the exact same duration (232*) as the 2.0 cam. The difference is increased lift, which means more air throughout the powerband, which does not cause a loss of low end power.
When I researched the 1.8 cam before buying one, I read like 30+ threads on this and not a single person reported a loss of low end.
I'm going to go out on a limb and say it's either in your head, or your timing is too advanced, which will cause a loss of low end power.
Hate being out for some time, but I could check if it is advanced or not either that or I'm not getting of first at the proper rev. I'd have to see I'll update in a bit
Posted by: trololololo Nov 7 2014, 08:24 PM
lol depending on hkw much your butt dyno feels... it could just be in your head wishing the bottom end was pumped up too. 
Posted by: ElMurcielago Nov 7 2014, 10:24 PM
Or that, and now that I remember, whenever I had launched once at 2.5 rpm it didn't drop nor did it feel slow, it just pulled until redline. It could probably be indecent driving habit and in my head.
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