This is a very straight forward install unless your bolts are rusted to crap like mine were.
Ingalls smart arms (you will need TWO SETS for the project)
We had to use the torch to break break loose the rust and free the bolt...then followed by lots of turning, and then eventually we go enough room to cut the bolts off. I knew this in advance and bought new bolts and nuts.
What we had to do to get the arms off....first it was fire.
FIRE!!!
Then some turning
Turning...slowly but surey
1. Remove both rear wheels for access and clearance purposes. Remove 17mm nut on outer arm. you should be able to pull the bolt through on the opposite side. Repeat for other side.
2. Once both bolts have been removed remove the 4 17mm bolts that hold up the subframe. Bring it down to ground level and remove the final two nuts and bolts. Again they just slide through the subframe.
3. As close as you can make the ingalls arms as close to the oem bar as possible. You will have to turn one left and the other side right. Make sure that the wrench placement on the arm itself is sitting towards the outside of the vehicle.
4. Put arms up to subframe and replace bolt (with new or old) do not forget the washers (i also used anti seize) after both bolts are run through the arms and sub frame snug them down but not all the way.
5. Bring subframe up to the body (i had another person, i held and he HAND THREADED THE BOLTs, DO NOT USE A RACHET OR POWER TOOL TO START THE BOLTS!!!!!) replace botls and torque down to oem spec. you can now run the bolt through the ends of the bar and through the knuckles. Tighten them down now.
6. Put the wheels back on, and drive it over to the alignment rack...the rack that I used was two bays down so running with the rear bolts just snug was ok till i go onto the rack, if you do not have that luxury you need to tighten them down immediately!!!
7. Perform Alignment. To adjust camber move both arms at the same time. After camber is set you can not move one or the other to adjust your toe.
My final alignment settings were...and yes i'm aware they are out of OEM spec.
Front
Camber...-2.0
toe...0.00
Rear
Camber...-1.5
toe...0.00
While I was there I also installed new front tie rod ends and balanced my wheels. The car feels much better now. No more vibrations and everything feels much more solid. The poly mounts on the arms makes a big difference as well and really tighten things up quite a bit!!!
Overall, these are a must buy for anybody that needs/wants to correct their camber without using bolts that can slip and rust in place. These are much thicker and better quality then the OEM bars.
Very pleased with the end result!!!