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> Basic Audio Headunit Information
Options V
Note on Applicability
This guide applies to the left-hand drive XD platform Elantra, model years 2001-06. This applies to North and South America, most of Europe and some of Asia. It does not apply to Japan, Australia or England, or any other countries that have the steering wheel on the right side of the car. Sorry 'bout that.

OEM Kenwood Information
In 2004, and again in 2006, Hyundai offered an upgraded stereo option including a Kenwood CD player. Here are some links for the owners manuals for those Kenwood units: KDC-MPV622 for 2004, EZ-500H3 for 2006. For more about OEM Kenwood parts and accessories, check out this thread.

Upgrading a Hyundai Stereo
Tools & Materials needed: Phillips head screwdriver, wire stripper*, electrical tape*, Hyundai adapter harness (available where you buy your stereo for probably less than $20)

*The wire ends on the adapter harness and stereo may already be stripped so the wire stripper may not be necessary. Electrical tape is one way to cover the spliced connections; I prefer to actually solder the connections between the adapter harness and the head unit harness, and cover them with shrink tubing. It is recommended that you do not cut the wires in the car. Ever. :- )

Upgrading a Hyundai-branded stereo to an aftermarket stereo is pretty easy and can be done by someone even if they have no prior experience with car stereos. Time to install the new stereo will be 30 minutes to 4 hours, depending on how well things go. Average time for someone not very familiar with what they're doing is probably less than 2 hours.

Replacing just the head unit (the box in the dash) will make the OEM speakers sound much better. But if you're not upgrading the speakers, be careful about putting a powerful head unit in. There are many stereos that put out about 20 watts continuous per channel (50 watts peak per channel) that will work well with the stock speakers, as long as you don't leave it cranked up all the time.

Dash Fascia Removal
The first step is to remove the dash fascia, the covering that surrounds the stereo head unit. To do this, move the tilt steering wheel all the way down and move the shift lever back. Next, disconnect the negative battery terminal. Then remove the ash tray and the two Phillips head screws behind it, as well as the two Phillips head screws in the instrument cluster bezel just above the speedometer and tachometer. With those four screws removed, the only thing holding in the dash fascia is a series of pop fasteners. Starting from the ash tray end, pull the fascia out away from the dash. The fasteners will pop as you pull the fascia.  Work your way along the fascia from the ash tray end to the end near the door, until the fascia is loose. Next, reach behind the fascia and disconnect all the electrical connectors including cigarette lighter, aux power outlet, clock, hazard switch, Passenger Air Bag Off indicator, dimmer, Traction Control switch, and any other electrical connectors. Each connector has a tab that needs to be pushed in order to release the connector. This part of the job is the most potentially frustrating if you have no prior experience. The first time it took me over a half hour; the second time took just a few minutes.  There is a EClub DIY for removing the dash fascia as well.

Stereo Replacement
Once the fascia is off, you can remove the stereo. The head unit and the bin beneath it are installed as one unit; to remove the stereo, unscrew the two screws on each side of the stereo, as well as the one screw on each side of the bin (total of 6 Phillips head screws), and pull the stereo-bin assembly out. Reach behind the stereo and disconnect the electrical connector (there is a tab on the connector that needs to be pushed to release it) and the antenna connector. The stereo-bin combination should now be totally disconnected, and the brackets connecting the two pieces should be visible on each side.

If the new stereo is a Single DIN unit (roughly the same size as the stock stereo), remove the screws that secure the stereo to the bracket (one Phillips head screw on each side), and remove the stereo.

Most aftermarket stereos include both a trim bezel and a detachable face. The trim bezel cannot be used in the Elantra; discard it. For now, remove and save the detachable face. Also, if there is a metal mounting sleeve that came with the new stereo, you probably won't need that either and can discard it. There should be several mounting holes on the side of the new stereo. Use one that is centered top to bottom, and positions the head unit so that it will not stick out farther than the bin.  (If it sticks out farther than the bin, the dash fascia will not fit.)

If you buy a Double DIN unit, you will need to remove the bracket in the car behind the stereo. There are two Phillps head screws on each side of the bracket.  They are in VERY tight; rather than using a screwdriver, use a socket wrench with a Phillips head bit. Most of the rest of the installation is the same as for a Single DIN unit.

Electrical Connections
The simplest way to connect the stereo is with an adapter harness. This an electrical connector that mates with the one in the car that was plugged into the old stereo, and has wires coming out of it that can be spliced to the new stereo.

Most aftermarket stereos and adapter harnesses are color coded so that all you need to do is connect the matching wire colors. If you are unfamiliar with making electrical connections, the simplest way to make them is to twist the wires together and cover them with electrical tape, making sure that individual wires are insulated from each other. If you want a more "professional" job, you can solder and/or cover the connections between the adapter harness and the harness with your new head unit with shrink tubing. Here is a chart showing the electrical connections:

The wire colors to the left are in the car itself and you don't have to worry about them. The ones in the right column are the typical wire colors used on aftermarket stereos and adapter harnesses. The connector on the adapter harness should look like this, with the wire colors for each pin matching the right column of the chart:

As long as you're not color blind, it's pretty idiot-proof.

2007+ Stereo Pinout
Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: Red
Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Yellow
Ground Wire: Black
Illumination Wire: Pink
Antenna Trigger Wire: Yellow/Orange
Amp Trigger Wire: Blue
Amplifier Location: Behind the trim on the right side of the trunk.
Left Front Speaker Positive(+): White
Left Front Speaker Negative(-): Black
Right Front Speaker Positive(+): Yellow
Right Front Speaker Negative(-): Black
Left Rear Speaker Positive(+): Red
Left Rear Speaker Negative(-): Blue
Right Rear Speaker Positive(+): Red
Right Rear Speaker Negative(-): Blue

For a simple installation, it is not necessary to connect the Antenna Remote, Amp Remote or Illumination leads (blue and orange wires). The remotes are used to turn on another accessory such as a power antenna or an amp, and the illumination leads usually only work with Hyundai stereos. Even if you don't hook up the illumination leads, the stereo should light up on its own, although it won't dim with the panel lights. Unless you are sure you need to hook up illumination leads, do not do it. Almost all stereo installation problems I've heard about are caused by hooking things up to the illumination leads, resulting in the dimmer no longer working correctly, or blowing Fuse 6 (for the illumination and ride side marker lights).

The adapter harness or radio harness may have a ground lug. If so, find a screw that goes into a metal part that you can loosen and attach the ground lug to. One candidate is the cross brace behind the radio. The screws on that are very tight, though, so don't try to loosen them with a screwdriver; instead use a socket wrench with a Phillips head bit to loosen one of the screws on that bracket.

Once you've done the electrical connections, plug the audio connectors back in, reconnect the battery and make sure everyting works. If something doesn't work right, make sure all connections are insulated from each other. Fuses to check include Fuse 6 (Illuminations and RH marker lights), Fuse 9 (Audio ACC/ON power and digital clock lighting) and Fuse 25 (Audio memory power, dome lights, and other instruments).

Finishing Up
Assuming everything is good, disconnect the battery again just to be safe, and install the radio-bin combination using the six screws. If you put the dash fascia back on now, there will probably be a small gap between the detachable stereo face and the dash fascia. This can be hidden by using some electrcial tape around the perimeter of the stereo to cover the brackets. Other options are discussed at the end of this article. (Look over those options before putting your fascia back on.)

Finally, move the dash fascia into place and reconnect all the electrical connectors. Some people have had problems crossing connectors. I don't think it is an issue for XD2 Elantras (04-06) but for XD Elantras (01-03), there are two connectors that can be cross-connected: The Hazard Switch and the Rear Wiper/Washer Switch connectors are identical 10-pin connectors. The Hazard Switch connector is white (with 8 of the 10 pins wired) and the Wiper/Washer Switch is yellow (with 6 of the 10 pins wired). The Rear Wiper/Washer is only on the hatch version, but the connector apparently exists on all XDs including sedans. If you plug them in the wrong way, your dimmer won't work and you may blow some fuses. Here's a picture of the connectors- The Wiper/Washer connector on the left, the Hazard connector in the middle and the clock connector on the right.

The rest of installation is the reverse of removal. Reconnect your battery and check that everything works. You should be done.

Options for Trimming Out the Area Around the Stereo
You can do the basic mounting of a head unit with what comes in the car. If you buy a single DIN head unit (with a chassis the size of the original OEM stereo), the opening in the dash fascia may be too small to include the bezel that comes with an aftermarket unit, but large enough to leave a gap around the detachable faceplate. There are several options here:

1. If you don't worry about the untrimmed area, it will look like this:

2. Trim out the unfinished area. I had some foam tape that was about 1/16" thick which I put on the perimeter of the head unit *before* putting the fascia and faceplate on. The foam was pressed under the fascia on the outer edge and when I put the head unit face on, it compressed the foam slightly on the inner perimeter. When I had it this way, it looked like the following picture. Other things besides foam could be used including electrical tape, black construction paper or cardboard.

3. Buy the 00271-84004 OEM unit (from a Hyundai dealer, ~$40; order the part number I provided). My Pioneer unit fit perfectly except that there are small tabs that stick out of the unit (I think for security purposes) that I bent over... then it fit perfectly. It looks like this:

4. There is a more affordable OEM option (from a Hyundai dealer, ~$20) that trims out the area but omits the door- it's part number 00273-83000. The doorless kit looks like this when it's installed:

Here's a DIY for how to install the 00271-84004 unit from the EClub DIY page.

Last update: Feb 22 2010, 08:52 PM by sarge    Created: Jan 1 2008, 12:36 PM by Doohickie    Edits: 12    Views: 15,984
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