I've been really wanting to give my car a full detail for a while. I try to wash it weekly, and wax it monthly, but i'd like to give it a full go every now and then.

what i was hoping to get was some AIO, PS113(Or some other Number, i hope you know what i'm talking about)wax, and Poorboys EX Sealent.
Sadly, i could find none of the above in my local stores, so here's what i have.

Wash: Blue Coral Wash & Wax Concentrate
Wax: Turtle Wax Platinum Series High Gloss Paste Wax
Polish: Turtle Wax F21 Liquid Car Polish
Windows: Foaming Rain-X Cleaner
Trim: Mothers Back-To-Black
Rims: Armorall Tire Foam & Citrus Cleaner & Rim Brush
Wheels: Turtle Wax Wet & Black
Engine Bay: Dawn Dish Liquid (Just a quick wash-over)


I was considering Claying, but the surface is still smooth, regardless of the fact that the car has 15k miles, had 14k when i bought it, and had never had wax since it originally left the showroom.

Hopefully i can get the paint back to looking somewhat decent. I'm headed off to use a full bottle of touch-up paint now '

Any Comments/Suggestions on what i'm about to do? I'll try to get some pictures when i'm done.

Hello,

I have a question. I have some major scratches on my hub caps. Is there a way to cover up/repair the scratches short of replacing the hub caps? I was thinking of either touch-up paint as an option. Can anyone suggest something?

Thanks,

Jon

is there any product that will help cover up a few window scratches??? if a picture is needed let me know, thanks in advance!!!!

This stuff is da bomb!! Seriously, it can be used in direct sunlight, glides on easily and removes in a snap. Fantastic. Plus it smells like a banana cream pie... gotta love that!

So what exactly is this stuff? Well it's a synthetic sealant but it also has carnauba wax in it. And it's the carnauba that makes it more versatile. Typical sealants do not bond well over waxes but EX does. I put a layer of it over my pre-winter detailing and it went on with an ease I couldn't believe!
It buffed off very easily too.

This stuff combined with the waxes I'm using will give my paint a fighting chance against the salts and chemicals used around here for snow.

One thing to keep in mind about sealants in general. They need to be put on very clean paint. If your paint is in poor shape this stuff will not "cure" it!


My car is really shaping up shine wise. I had folks walking by & commenting on how it looked. Here's a pic of the car after I used the EX Sealant. (3 layer of P21S to follow)

Here is a list of some of the popular makers of detailing products. If you have a company websight of a product that you use, fell free to add it to the list.



Meguiar's USA

Meguiar's Canada

Mothers

Eagle One

TurtleWax

P21S

Pinnacle

Zymol

Poorboys World

Zaino

Adams Polishes

Menzerna

Wolfgang

303 Aerospace

Lexol

Plexus

Stoner

1Z- Einszett

Autoglym

Simoniz

Sonax

ask the detailer.
this thread is to better understand the different technics and products that can keep you vehicle finish looking showroom fresh.

post any questions you have about detailing your car inside and out.
from products to technics. what to do and what not to do.

I took my car to one of those car wash places because i just wanted a quick wash. Wat i got was a clean but damaged car. The first time i noticed a few scratches but i thought they were just there by chance. I went a second time and when i came back home to hand dry the car the scratches multipiled like germs!!!
GAHH!! Pissed me off so much. Finally figuried out that the brush at the car wash was scratching the car.

Does anyone know wat i can use to get rid of the scratches? They seem to be have damaged only the clear coat. So, i'm somewat lucky. Good thing i noticed it before i did anymore harm. From now one it all hand washing!!

For fathers day my wife gave me this kit called 5 Star Shine to put on the car.
It is very expensive but is supposed to last over 150 washes. It says it is used by the Navy on their boats and equipment to withstand the harshest environments. There is some sort of Positive/Negative Ion thing that happens when you apply the 2 step process and fills the pores of the paint with PTFE plasticizer.
Here is my concern. She already bought the stuff so the cost is not the problem. What I am concerned about is I am supposed to wash the car with a good quality car wash soap then for best results clay the car to remove all impurities from the finish. I then apply the first step called "Polarizing Wash Solution" and leave it on the car until dry then rinse car and dry thoroughly. I then apply the 2nd step which is the "Paint Protection Coat" on section at a time. I WONDER WHAT THIS MIGHT DO TO THE FINISH IF IT IS A SCAM. So I was wondering if anybody has ever heard of this or used it or knows anything about it. I don't think I can get the money back from the company so I would like to try it but if someone has ever had a bad experience with this I will not use it.
Here is the website address for the product.
5StarShine

Was looking back on the hundreds of cars that I have detailed and this one kind of sticks out to me as I remember the scrubbing and heat extraction I had to do on the carpets to get them like new again. It was not the worst I have ever done, but it's still a good example of what can be done to improve the interior.

Just thought I would share it again with you, sorry the afters are a little darker but you get the idea.

I think this can be very useful! It's a quick guide to paint defect troubleshooting! For example, what to do for Orange Peel!

Troubleshooting Guide

Detailing with PC7424 and Lake Country Pads!

The Star!

Orange Pad = Cutting Pad

This pad is the most aggressive pad and is used only in severe applications such as heavy scratches, swirls, oxidation, very hard water spots etc.

Use this pad with the mildest polish first and step up if needed. This pad will probably dull the paint and can induce micro marring but can be followed up with the white polishing pad and a gentle polish to restore the gloss and remove any marring.

Don't need to use this pad on any speed greater than 5. Best speed is 4-5.

Try not to apply to much pressure on the PC as this will increase the dullness, try using just enough pressure to keep the pad flat on the surface. Don't forget to overlap 50% on each pass.

White Pad = Polishing Pad

This pad is the most commonly used pad and will do 99% of your work for you. It is agressive and yet safe at the same time. It will remove most defects dependent on the severity. This pad works very well at speeds 3.5-5.5 (even 6 if needed, although I think it is too fast) and is a great pad for SSR1.0,2.0,2.5.

I would not use SSR3.0 with this pad. Chances are with SSR3.0 you will need the Orange Pad as well.

You can also use this pad with AIO for a one step application. Just mist the pad with water first. You can use this pad on glass as well if you need to polish any.

Use about 5lbs of pressure for best results and let the pad overlap 50% of each pass for best results.

Grey Pad = Finishing Pad

This pad is the one you should use for waxes/sealents. It is very gentle and has no real abrasive value. Best used on speeds 3.0 and lower. No pressure needed on the PC in most cases. Just let the weight of the PC be the pressure. Overlap 50% for even and best coverage.

Always remember to put the pad to the surface before turning the PC on. If not the pad could fly off and will always land good side down in the dirt....lol

Let the pads air dry when finished and then either gently bang the dust out or put the pad on the PC, get an old toothbrush and use it to lightly scrub the pad while the PC is running.

Turn the pad facing up at you, put the toothbrush in the middle of the pad and apply pressure to hold the pad on the faceplate, turn the speed to 5 and turn the PC on. Work the brush from the centre of the pad to the outer edge and repeat back to the centre as needed until you feel the pad is clean.

(Thank to Richard for giving me this info!)


LINKS:

Application Guide Chart
DA Foam Pads (As Indicated on top)
Foam Pad Care instructions
Main Lake Country WEB Page

Sometimes I find people get confused with the product names and purposes of any given product. Hopefully, this will curb some of the confusion.

A wax/sealent is a wax/sealent that has nothing really to do with or relative to polish! They often get called polishes. Some makers combine them in a bottle, but then they are not really true stand alone products. You have to think...for example..a product like cleaner wax...which is it..a cleaner or a wax??? Wouldn't the cleaner portion remove the wax portion. When possible, use a product with a specific function. Or a product such as a combo polish/wax..a little more feasible but still not the best idea to combine products.

A true polish contains an abrasive of some scale for minor paint correction as well as some oils to enhance shine and gloss!

A polish with heavy abrasives should be considered a compound due to the agressiveness of the product.

A polish without without any abrasive should not be called a polish, it is a glaze.

A glaze is a product with no abrasive quality nor cleaning or correction agents and is essentially oils that feed the paint and add that super wet look we desire.

The products should be used in such an order:

Compound - Remove the major paint issues, such as deep scratches, heavy oxidization, difficult hard water etching etc. USE WITH CAUTION! They can dull the paint!

Light to medium Polish - Removes the swirls and hazing often left behind with a compound. Restores the gloss and levels minor scratches, removes minor oxidization, minor hard water etching, wet sanding marks and other various minor imperfections. Also adds gloss due to the fact that most polishes do contain oils to increase working time of the product and to aid in the diminishing of the abrasives.

Glaze - Enhances further the effects of polishing and also helps conceal minor paint issues that some might not want to polish out! It's the lazy mans way to quickly hide very minor surface imperfections! It's a filler of sorts. Has no protective elements and will come off in the first and second wash. Most use a glaze just before a car show etc, as it will add the dripping wet look that is desired by many.

Wax/Sealents - Protects the overall finish and will protect the glaze from being removed, as well as adds even more depth and reflectivity to a paint job.

Glaze can be added over a wax, but I see no value or sense in this unless you want to add that quick wet look to the paint for a show!

This write up is from Autogeek.

This is the newest in polishes and in a nutshell, it changes it's working composition depending on which pad you use to apply it with. I have not used it yet, but it is on order for me, and from what I have read from other detailers is that the product is simply amazing and they are blown away with the product, and it does exactly what it claims to do. You gotta love where technology takes something like a polish to new levels.



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If we could create the perfect polish, it would be really easy to use and fix just about any paint problem. Some hobbyists live for long afternoons spent compounding and polishing, but some of us want to get the desired results quickly and spend the rest of the afternoon cruising in our shiny, clean cars. Optimum read our minds when they created Optimum Polish. That’s it. That’s the whole name, because they only make one polish. They packed all the paint-improving, swirl-removing power they could into one versatile formula that really works!

Optimum Polish is a thick cream loaded with proprietary polymers and microfine polishing agents that quickly remove – not hide – scratches and swirls to restore your paint to pristine condition. It can be used as a light compound, a swirl remover, and a finishing polish! You might be wondering how one product can serve so many purposes. Well, an integral part of achieving specific polishing results is what pad you use. Optimum Polish is designed to be used with a machine polisher and the desired pad to deliver the results you want, whatever they may be. If you want to remove light scratches, use a light cutting pad with this polish. If you are interested in refining the paint before you apply wax, use a polishing pad. Your pad selection dictates how aggressively this polish works!

According to Optimum Polymer technologies, Optimum Polish will remove 1500 sand scratches and lighter at 1000-1400 RPM. Faster buffer speed is not needed with this product. When using a light cut foam pad at 1000-1400 RPM the polish will remove 2000 and lighter sand scratches on most paint surfaces. A final finishing foam pad will remove swirl marks at 1000-1400 RPM. Always apply enough polish to maintain a layer of lubrication between the paint surface and the pad. Wipe off residue by misting the surface with Optimum Car Wax.

Optimum Polish is a very gentle formula. It will not contribute to new swirls. Use it by hand for pre-wax cleaning or final polishing.

Optimum Polish meets all VOC regulations and is body shop safe.

Remove scratches and swirls, and refine your paint with one product. Optimum Polish’s paint safe proprietary formula allows you to control the aggressiveness of the polish so you always get the desired result.

As promised, I am describing what my detailing steps were from this weekend.

This is where the pictures have been posted!
http://www.elantraclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=2408

EXTERIOR
-Washes car using Mr. Clean Auto Dry
-Washed wheels with Poorboy’s wheel cleaner
-Clayed using Meguiars Clay System
-Applied Poorboy’s SSR 2 using the PC with the white pad that came with it!
-Applied Poorboy’s SSR1 using the WEN with applicator pad
-Applied Klasse AIO with PC and white polishing pad
-Applied & removed P21S by hand and polished with WEN and M/F bonnet
-Trim done with Poorboy’s Trim Restorer
-Tires done with Poorboy’s Bold & Bright tire dressing

INTERIOR
-Vacuumed with Shop Vac and accessories
-Dusted using M/F towels
-Applied Aerospace 303 on dash, doors and trims
-Leather Seats done with Meguiars leather wipes
-Windows with Eagle one 20/20

My girlfriend gave me a hand so it went a little faster! I had to coach her before she started but it was all good! The mosquitos didn't help much and made the job a bit irritating!

As it was very hot that day and I applied every product in the shade, they still dried very quickly. I managed quite well otherwise!

Let me tell you that the PC is a blast to work with!

I think it was Consumer Reports that said the door inserts on the GT are leather. Is this true or is it vinyl? Can anyone say for sure what part of the seats are leather? Thanks!

All,

I was recently selected by Meguiar's to put 30+ new products to the test and submit my comments about the products back to Meguiar's in Irvine California.

Rather than link and post 30+ times for each product, I will provide the link to the new products section at Meguiar's and if you see something that you like and /or want to know more about it before you plan to purchase, than I will be more than happy to respond and share my thoughts.

Meguiar's New Products Page

They have many new products in the Gold Glass Accessories and NXT Line, a new line of M/f clothes that are amazing and some other handy little tools and brushes etc.

Please check it out and ask away.

I washed my car and added a layer of P21S, the car was looking hot...

Well for about 1 1/2 hours anyway. By evening there was a coating of windblown pollen thick enough to make it look like I never did anything to it. I could easily have written my name in it. Damn.

what is the best way to get rid of tar on the floor mats, cut it or some special remover???

thanks in advance

I finally washed my GT this weekend and had the chance to use 2 of my new products!

Poorboy's Wheel Cleaner

All I did is simply spray on the cleaner, let it sit for a few minutes and rinse with a high jet! That's it! It was awsome! With a few rubs it would have been insane!

Poorboy's Bolt N Bright Tire Dressing

If you like dark shiny tires, this is the stuff! I sprayed on and left it there! I have used many products on my wheels and this is definitely the winner! It also smells very good!

These 2 products are definitely worth the money!

I was thinking of heading over to Wal-Mart this afternoon to pick up some spray on car cleaner. You know the stuff that comes in a windex bottle that you spray on the car and wipe clean to remove the dust and pollen off your car between actual washes. I've heard of some people not liking these proucts because of drying to fast and being more of a pain in the ass than what's its worth, but I've heard other people say that they like using them. So any personal experiance w/ these type of products would be handy B4 I blow $5-$10 on the wrong product. Thanks.

Here is a picture of what is in my kit!

I have a few more things like mivcrofiber towels, wash mitts, Mr Clean Auto Dry etc. I should be OK for a while!

I got this fine tool on Sunday! Now if the weather can clear up I will be able to test it!

[attachment=142:attachment]

First off, great forum! The DIY section is awesome!

I got many ?'s but will keep it to few for now. I got a 05 GT hatchback couple of weeks ago and was wondering about waxing it. I have no experience in waxing cars. Is this the right procedure for waxing?

1. Wash car with car soap. (using Turtle Wax car wash with a microfiber sponge towel)
2. Dry the car. (using large microfiber drying towel)
3. Apply wax in sections. (I was thinking of using Meguiar NXT Tech Wax)
4. How long should I wait? (temp around 65-70 fahrenheit)
5. Buff off using what type of towel? Terry is safe for paint?
6. Done or should I apply more coats? If applying more coats, how long should I wait for Meguiar NXT between coats?

Anything else required? I am not looking for carshow shine but just to protect the paint. Please advise a n00b.

The other day as i finished washing my car, i noticed all these tiny little rust spots on my hood. I would assume they are from when rocks hit my hood. Is there any way to go about fixing these?

What i am going to get is a hood deflector to help, but it can't help what already happened, any suggestions would be helpful. I will post some pics if needed.

I'm looking to purchase a 2001 Elantra GLS (http://www.elantraclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=2175) and the car seems perfect except for one flaw. The steering wheel has a 2-inch wide section that is torn up in the 2-o'clock position (probably from a "Club" steering wheel lock). Even if I could find a replacement wheel on eBay (which I haven't yet) I don't know if I want to remove the airbag to replace the wheel. Does anyone have any suggestions on repairing the vinyl?

Thanks in advance. Happy Motoring!

Scott
http://www.NovaResource.com

Connolly, the folks behind the high end leather used in many Jaguars, Ferraris, Bentleys and Rolls Royces make a line of leather detailing products. Their conditioner sounds like it's excellent. Does anyone know how their products rate?

We always talk about the best, well let's talk about your least favorite detailing product and why.

For me its Zymol (the store bought made by Turtle Wax stuff). When I bought it I wasn't savvy about detailing products like I am now. I had heard Zymol was great and I saw this on the store shelf and for $13 I figured I'd try it. Now that I know it really isn't Zymol I feel ripped off. But beyond that, the stuff is hard to word with, stains black trim and leaves a ton of white powdery residue behind.


The other product that isn't so great is Stoner's "Trim Shine". This is suprising because I love their other stuff. This is a spray for the black plastic trim on the car. It looks fantastic at first but after about 3-4 days it not only looks like you never used it but the trim turns a bit grayish. Don't buy it!

What's your least favorite detailing product(s) in your kit?

Well I've done everything to my car, wash, wax, clay etc. that I though was proper but neglected a very important step... polishing. So I finally bought the supplies I needed and gave my hood it first polishing today.

The products I used in order were: Meguiars No. 9 Swirl Remover, Menzerna Finishing Touch Glaze and some Poorboys Sealant.

The Meguiars No.9 is a cleaner/polish and it was easy to work with... went on easy and buffed off fairly easily. I could definitely see a reduction in the fine swirls in the finish and a nice gloss. Next came the glaze and it did a good job but I have to say it was not easy to get off. The Poorboy's Sealant is my-all time favorite product to work with; it comes off super easy and works in the sun. The sealant is has some carnauba wax in it and this was my final coat.

I took a pic but it really doesn't do the shine justice. It is interesting to note how the Chianti Red color looks different in different light. On this partly cloudy day it looked less red then on a bright sunny one.

The thing I do notice is the clarity of the shine my hood has now.. It seems all those layers of wax, while producing a great shine and protective layer may have clouded things up a bit. The swirls are less noticeable too.

Hello,

Question: has anyone had peeling plastic along the edge of the door? Where the power window controls/door handle are located?

Thanks,

Jon

I decided it's time to finally polish my car. I've clayed and waxed my car since 2002 so I'm well overdue to polish my car!

The plan:

I ordered Meguiars No. 9 Swirl Remover which is a polish and cleaner all-in-one. Then I'll to use my newly purchased Menzerna Finishing Touch Glaze after that. Then I'll top that off with Poorboys Sealant and maybe some P21S. I'm going to use my hood as the "guinea pig" this weekend. Hopefully it will look great.