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> 2010 Elantra - Steering Wheel Radio Control Upgrade
sarge
post Jan 10 2012, 07:13 AM
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Sweeeettt!

So it's Honeycomb on the one side and smooth on the other Vinnie? That's standard? Seems odd.


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Vinnie
post Jan 10 2012, 07:24 AM
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both of my steering wheel button sides are honey comb.


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Popkorn
post Jan 10 2012, 06:07 PM
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The $10 kit will do the trick
http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch...rd=wheel+puller


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SpeedyTheSnail
post Apr 11 2012, 08:33 PM
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For the record:
You do NOT need to remove the steering wheel, nor the blank plastic plate to install the buttons.
EDIT:
Tools required:
T40 Torx bit
Flat head screw driver, small size (Like electronics screwdriver size)
Flat head screw driver, medium size
Possibly a pair of pliers (I used it to pull wires out)
Patience

Hear me out:

Today I was looking at the steering wheel plate that is there, and you do not need to unscrew it. Instead, remove the airbag as well as the three screws holding the metal contraption that just so happens to be your horn. Be sure to unplug the wires first!
Next, if you look at the controls that you want to install, you will notice how the silver plate is secured to the assembly: 4 clips. Pry those clips up without breaking them, and the silver cover comes off with the buttons, exposing the circuit board underneath. Remove the circuit board, and put aside for use in a second.
Now that you have taken apart the steering wheel controls, you must find a way to remove the silver honeycomb plate on the left side of your steering wheel. If you haven't guessed it by now, it holds onto the main assembly by 4 clips, just as on the new unit you want to install. You will only be able to lift up two of the clips but that is more than enough. Pry from the clip side with a flat head screw driver, until the plastic plate snaps off.
You are left with the part that is screwed into the steering wheel. Put the circuit board in the housing on the steering wheel exactly how you found it in your new unit (You may have to press hard to get it to snap into place). Then put the plastic cover that has the buttons on, making sure you hear the clicks of the four tabs snapping into place.
You have just saved a lot of time by doing this, I know that it only took me about ten or fifteen minutes to install my controls (pics later, when I find my camera). I have not taken pictures, as I did not expect to find a new method to install the radio controls that would be easier.

In addition to your wiring harness issue, of the yellow wire missing on the cruise control side of the Y-cable, if you look at your old harness, you will see tiny notches on the TOP side of the connector, both ends.
The fat square connector has a notch on the top, which you can pry up a little with a tiny screw driver. It will not come all the way up, but just enough to where you will be able to pull out all the wires if you wish, with a little bit of force. Be sure that it is pried up, or you may break the wire.
On the other end of the wiring harness, which is the flat rectangular end, there is also a notch on top. But instead of prying up, pry up a LITTLE and then slide the white part of the connector to the left. You will see that you have exposed the other side of the wires. Press down GENTLY onto the copper part of the wire, which is semi-springy in order to release it from the plug, while also pulling the wire gently out.
Doing this will save you from trying to figure out how to connect the cruise control up.
To install the wire you just removed, you are going to need to open up the connectors on the new wiring harness, and place the yellow wire in the same spot that it was on the old harness, which you will notice is empty on the new one. Secure the connectors by pushing the locking mechanism down, or by sliding the locking cover to the right.

Be sure that you will not need your old harness, because I effectively destroyed my old one before I figured out this method, but my new one is in pristine condition because I properly opened it to install the wire.

This post has been edited by SpeedyTheSnail: Apr 11 2012, 08:35 PM


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dirtydave
post Apr 12 2012, 11:02 AM
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QUOTE (SpeedyTheSnail @ Apr 11 2012, 08:33 PM) *
Today I was looking at the steering wheel plate that is there, and you do not need to unscrew it. Instead, remove the airbag as well as the three screws holding the metal contraption that just so happens to be your horn. Be sure to unplug the wires first!

I would strongly discourage the removal of the airbag from the steering wheel by anyone who is not a certified tech or does not have a backup airbag. That is something that is a safety (requirement?) feature that without can cause serious damage to the driver. Now, I realize the unplugging wires and all will help, but you really never know if there is voltage stored somewhere that could cause everything to go boom unannounced.


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SpeedyTheSnail
post Apr 12 2012, 05:25 PM
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QUOTE (dirtydave @ Apr 12 2012, 12:02 PM) *
I would strongly discourage the removal of the airbag from the steering wheel by anyone who is not a certified tech or does not have a backup airbag. That is something that is a safety (requirement?) feature that without can cause serious damage to the driver. Now, I realize the unplugging wires and all will help, but you really never know if there is voltage stored somewhere that could cause everything to go boom unannounced.

I would discourage people who are unfamiliar with any sort of hazardous maintenance from removing the airbag.

This addition states that the removal of the airbag is necessary, and following the proper procedure in the manual is about as safe as you can get. When you unplug the battery and try to turn the ignition, a lot of voltage in the lines is drained. The remaining voltage will dissipate after not too long. I am not expecting the airbag to go off in my hands for any reason other than the specified voltage or amperage, going through the airbags terminals. I do not know, because I am not a certified tech for Hyundai's, however I am an aircraft mechanic, so I trust my skills and experience. I have safely removed airbags off of three different vehicles, the first two I was nervous about but now I am confident that it won't go off if I do not screw around.

I put the airbag back in of course, as I do not want my face suddenly slamming into a metal rod/ backing of the steering wheel. The airbag system should, as it passed the self check that it does when you start your car.


This post has been edited by SpeedyTheSnail: Apr 12 2012, 05:29 PM


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dirkg
post Nov 18 2013, 06:14 PM
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For my Canadian brothers and sisters, just to add to this briefly, I have a 2010 Elantra GL A/T.

I was able to buy the steering wheel audio controls and y-harness for 50 bucks from South Korea, and used the technique that Snail used to put the new controls in, prying up the blank and removing the plate while leaving the lower portion in... circuit board in, snap new buttons on. I added the yellow wire by grabbing a wire from an old computer that had a metal contacts on the ends, and slipping it into the Y-harness.

The main reason I'm expanding on the post was connecting the ASWC-1 that I bought to go with my new Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS HU to interface with the new steering wheel controls. Their online instructions don't work; wrong harness, wrong wiring config.

After researching and testing I found out that the following actually works:

Hyundai/Kia 1787 shell (same as the Elantra 2010 Touring)
Harness - Crutchfield #120 70-7303

BUT, the instructions should read:

3) Connect the Green/Orange wire of the ASWC-1 to C2 pin 5 of the vehicle harness (not C2 pin 1).

4) Connect C2 pin 6 of the vehicles harness to chassis ground (not C2 pin 2). You may use the same
chassis ground as the black wire.

Hope this helps. If only I could find the right fascia... but 1 thing at a time smile.gif


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thatpreston
post Feb 16 2014, 02:21 PM
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Thanks for the info! Just ordered my parts!


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