Many people ask about the ECU reset. What does it do? Is it really worth doing? Are there any negative effects? I think it's time to have a definitive guide to the ECU reset.
Why do we reset the ECU's?
The main reason we reset the ECU's in our cars is for more power. Plain and simple. Why? After a little while of driving, the ECU de-tunes the engine to satisfy the O2 needs of the cat. When you reset the ECU, it resets the fuel maps to a base value that's more suited to power.
Is this bad in any way?
Yes, it can be harmful. When you reset the ECU it changes the fuel maps, which is potentially harmful to the cats.
How often should I do it?
Only when you need the extra power. If you are going to race, dyno, or show off, these are the only times you should do the reset from a power standpoint.
How do I reset the ECU.
There's multiple theories about this. The time consuming way is to disconnect the negative battery terminal for 15 minutes, press the brake pedal, then reconnect the negative terminal. This method is fine if you want to wait around 15 minutes, and reset the clock, and the radio presets and settings. A simpler way is to pull the two fuses labeled "ECU" in the underhood fuse block. And the easiest way (after initial difficulty) is to hook up a switch; http://elantragtclub.tripod.com/elantra/id514.html
Any more questions? Feel free to ask.
when i show off? its almost as paintstaking as opening the trunk to open your nitrous bottle.
lol. i guess i should look into that Switch DIY huh?
as far as "power" i do it because when i add a significant modification, i dont want it acting all crazy.. so start from the beginning. yes, the fresh start up feels pretty good and response is like new.
okay, since this topic comes up a lot, i'm pinning it.
so what about if i disconnect only the positive. does it have the same effect?
The correct procedure is to disconnect the ground (negative) terminal from the battery. This will make it safe for you to work on the electrics without inadvertently causing a short circuit which could immediately burn out your wiring (or worse).
This may sound strange to you. Why disconnect ground? Wouldn't it be more logical to disconnect the voltage carrying (positive) terminal from the battery? Well, there is a good reason. First: electrically speaking it does not matter which terminal you disconnect. When the circuit is broken no current can flow. It does not matter whether the circuit is open at the positive or at the negative terminal. BUT ... When you loosen the bolt or nut at the positive terminal of the battery you will need to use a spanner. When turning the (steel) spanner it may easily touch a metal part of the car body. That will create a massive short circuit! In fact you have now turned the battery and spanner into an arc-welding set-up with all the associated fireworks. I would strongly advise you not to try this. However when you first loosen the clamp on the ground terminal you can have the spanner touch the body of the car without any ill effect. The only thing to look out for is that it does not touch the positive terminal of the battery.
As for waiting 15 minutes, that's BS. It can be done in 2 minutes, just press the brake pedal multiple times to get rid of the residual current.
To really know if you have reset the ECU via this method, you'll see your guages go crazy when you put your key in and start her up.
Important thread though.
I'm not sure what you mean seinster, the guages in my car do not go crazy when I reset the ecu. Also, there's no need to wait 2 minutes and press the brake pedal if you just pull the underhood fuses or hook up the switch...
yeah can't say i've ever had my gauges do anything like that either but would be cool to see...well at least to me.
I have one question on something that wasn't totally clear in the switch DIY. So, exactly which pin # is the blue power wire in the ECU harness? Is it pin 3?
So how many miles does it take the ecu to relearn the fuel maps...
I've heard different info on this subject for quite awhile now, so i'll take another opinion here.. =)
DJ, seems that we lost the diagrams in the other tread, so that's something you'll have to look up on hmaservice.com.
Stauf, I believe that it takes 3 drive cycles for the effects of the reset to be lost.
Another thing I've never gotten a full answer to.. Define Drive Cycle.
Colin to the rescue... Is that a set pattern the ecu has defined as a drive cycle, or are there variables included in the logic? (sorry, programmer in me comming out)
I believe that the in order for the computer to see a full drive cycle, it has to be able to run through all of it's tests. And what colin described is the amount of time needed for this to happen.
i dont really understand the DIY for this what is the swich i didnt see anything tou rurn on or off mabey im jusy a dididi but please help me figure it out.
What do you need help with, understanding what the ECU is or with the DIY?
The ECU is what people think of as the car's "Computer". It takes a variety of imput signals and adjusts the engine to give the best programmed result. Our ECU's have a learning curve meaning that they also use historical information.
When you do certain modifications you change what these inputs are. For example, a CAI will change the airflow and temperature of the air from a stock airbox setup. Over time, the ECU will adapt to this. If you want to force the ECU to take the new inputs immediately you can "reset" it with a variety of methods.
Some like to reset it before racing events. Reseting it brings it back to factory like (some factory, some historical) settings that give slightly more power to the engine.
The three methods for reseting are as follows:
1. Pull the battery cables and step on the brake pedal.
2. Remove both ECU fuses
3. Add a switch via DIY to turn off the power to the ECU.
Any other questions feel free to ask.
I'm sure I made a mistake in here somewhere, anyone feel free to correct me!
I did
Where? Don't see it.
Drive Cycle:
my question was about the DIY where is the swich in it i didnt see any swich all i saw was taping into fuses and the blue wire. how long do you take out the fuses for or do you just unplug both then put them back in?\
It was assumed that if you can get that far, then you can figure out how to mount the two wires to a switch. Run the two new wires to where ever you want the switch, and connect them. But you only need to remove the fuses for a few seconds.
So in all reality all I have to do is make a break in the blue wire in that specific harness and place any kind of switch in the middle of the break? Makes sence to me, I am an Electronics Engineer Undergradute and as far as I've learned that is the correct way to setup a disruption to the power. Now......ill effects after doing the switch and resetting the ECM alot.......so what are we talking about.....like loss of fuel mileage? The ECM getting fried or just wearing down quickly? (how quickly?) anything i'm missing please fill in cause I'm seriously considering this .......my mods are an SRI w/K&N, deleted second cat, baffled res, dynomax muffler.......future (next 2-5 months) PnP IM w/Phenolic spacer, Fidanza flywheel, upgrade exhaust pipe from stock-2.5inch.
You just completely compexified the simpleness of "wire in a switch". LOL
The one downside that has been mentioned is that is has the possibility of killing the cat. The ECM learns the fuel trim and leans out the fuel to accomodate for emissions. So everytime you reset the ECU it runs a little bit richer than what is intended. Running raw fuel through the cat can cause degredation and eventually kill it. But as long as you don't reset it everytime you start the car, I can't really see this becoming a problem.
Loss of fuel mileage? That's debatable, as some people have actually claimed better mileage after a reset. No harm to the ECU itself, unless you do a really bad job of wiring.
I've got the switch installed (obviously), and have had no problems with it. Granted, I've used it like 3 times in the last year...
i reset my ECU yesterday.
read about it on http://www.elantraclub.com/forum/index.php?autocom=blog&blogid=11&showentry=66
On mine I only found one ECU fuse underhood... Where's the other one?
behind your change bin
To the left of the steering wheel near your knee is a bin usually used for change. Just pull the bin out and there are fuses behind it
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