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Posted by: bipseus Jul 19 2011, 11:31 AM

Hey all,

I just bought a 2010 elantra and I am loving it.

The only thing I want to be able to add on is the steering wheel audio controls.

Is there some kind of package I can buy that will allow me to do this?

Do they come pre-wired for it and I just have to buy the snap on plate for the wheel or do I need a harness?


Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Posted by: edouble Jul 22 2011, 06:06 AM

This is probably going to be a pita but yes it can be done! I would think the wires are there.

It would be easier to buy an aftermarket h/u that has a remote. You could velcro the remote on the steering wheel.

Posted by: close_ratio1971 Sep 7 2011, 08:34 AM

Has any one added the factory steering wheel audio controls yet? or taken the wheel apart to see if the wires are actually there?

2010 elantra blue with cruze

Posted by: close_ratio1971 Sep 8 2011, 08:56 AM

Ok I took apart the steering wheel and there are 6 unused pin locations on the plug to the steering column but of those 6 only 2 locations have pins going into the rotating contact assembly on the column. There are no wires to the left side of the wheel where the audio controls would be located. (with the wheel in straight ahead position) The four unused non contact wire locations are on the right of the plug and the two unused with contacts are in the top row on the left. Any chance someone with the audio control wheel can look at their connector and see which locations are used and which aren’t?

Posted by: bipseus Nov 19 2011, 03:30 PM

Hey Guys.

I found this ebay link that will give me the plate and harness for the wheel controls. I just need to know where the harness plugs into. Has anyone with a factory audio control taken their wheel apart so we can see where the harness plugs into? Help would be greatly appreciated!

ebay:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Steering-Wheel-Left-Remote-Control-Switch-07-10-Hyundai-Elantra-Avante-HD-/170699402979?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item27be7a2ee3#ht_4105wt_1159

Posted by: Vinnie Nov 19 2011, 10:34 PM

Dont know if this will help because it does not confirm anythign but check this out,
http://hmaservice.com/viewer/content.asp?IsPrint=true&imgnum=1&print_title=&vehicletype=Passenger&mfrcode=HY&area=HMA&langcode=ENG&modelid=HD13&modeldesc=ELANTRA%28HD%29&modelyr=2009&mmctype=imm&mmcid=1&group=SHOP&sitinfolist=92^9202^92020500^none^801^4^ENG^HY^HD13^2009^imm^1^none^none^none^SHOP^$92^9202^92020500^none^801^1^ENG^HY^HD13^2009^imm^1^none^none^none^SHOP^$92^9202^92020500^none^801^8^ENG^HY^HD13^2009^imm^1^none^none^none^SHOP^$&firstnodedesc=Body+Electrical+System%C2%A0%3E%C2%A0Audio%C2%A0%3E%C2%A0Audio+Remote+control%C2%A0%3E%C2%A0Repair+procedures&print_title=&cat1=2009+%3E+G+2%2E0+DOHC&cat2=
Just make sure you have your battery disconnected when messing with the airbag modules.

Posted by: kish21 Dec 18 2011, 08:50 PM

I hate to hijack this thread but there are some good information in here that I didn't want to repeat.
I am also interested in installing the left audio control buttons on my 2010 Elantra GLS. I went to go talk to the parts dept. and the required parts are:

96700-2H200-S4 (button module for left hand side)
56190-2H000 (extension cable/y-splitter for left hand side)
and the pictures of these are posted by bipseus' ebay link: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Steering-Wheel-Left-Remote-Control-Switch-07-10-Hyundai-Elantra-Avante-HD-/170699402979?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item27be7a2ee3#ht_4105wt_1159

I took apart the steering wheel thanks to Vinnie's posted information and here are some pics:

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/15/33783861.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/151/97593531.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/690/96585430.jpg/
MM01 connector:
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/814/16820272.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/338/77081977.jpg/
Right side (cruise control):
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/507/61017322.jpg/
Left side (currently empty):
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/853/86904852.jpg/

As you can see, the male connector (MM01) is shared for the left side audio buttons (M57) and the right side cruise control buttons (M60), so the EXT wire should provide the y-splitter for that.
My only fear is that MM01's female connector, M02-R is not wired for pin 11 and 12 connecting to the radio's pin 16 and 17. I haven't yet had a chance to do this because I haven't taken apart the steering wheel/column (stupid plastic in the way!)
If you have no idea idea what i'm talking about, I've included the schematic diagram

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/706/42977173.png/

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/263/75673424.png/


Has anyone else attempted this project, if so any success?

Posted by: ajlempka Dec 21 2011, 01:22 PM

Hey I have been looking into doing the same upgrade and i read for other Hyundai models this can't be done but I'm willing to try it for my elantra. To take off the plastic around the steering column, turn the top of your steering wheel to 9'oclock and then to 3 o'clock and you should see 1 screw on each side behind the steering wheel and then there is one screw underneath beside the height adjustment. I took this apart last week and noticed that there is 6 wires going into the knuckle from the cruise remote and then coming out of the knuckle there is 8. So I think it will work with the remote that you found off ebay. Also all HD models have two wires in the back of the audio unit for an audio remote. Then to get the silver blank piece out i think you gonna need to take apart the wheel more because it is screwed in to part of the metal rather than conveniently snapped in by plastic. I'll probably be doing this mod in the next month. Lemme know how it went for you and I'll try to share some pics when i get working on it.

Posted by: kish21 Dec 22 2011, 01:55 AM

Great! That is good news.

First I want to confirm that you DO need to take the steering wheel off the column completely in order to get access to the 2 screws needed to take out the silver blank piece out. These two screws are inserted in from behind the wheel into the blank piece, so that is why the wheel needs to come off.
Second, thanks for telling how to remove the steering column plastic. I saw those two screws behind the steering wheel, but I couldn't think of a way to get to them without taking the whole wheel off. But now I can see they can be accessed simply by moving the wheel 90 degrees off center! thanks!
The "knuckle" you are talking about I believe is connector MM01. You can also see this connector in my labeled pictures below. Here is the connector and the pin #s:

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/197/16611760.png/

and the other end of this connector is M02R:

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/39/34278953.png/

According to the schematic,
pin 3, 4, 5 is cruise control
pin 9, 10 is backlight.
pin 11, 12 is audio control

So if there is 8 wires coming of out this connector, and 6 are used, that is good news. This will mean that the two remaining wires, pin 11 and 12 is already wired into the radio.
If not, we're going to need run wires from the back of the radio unit to these two pins on the MM01 or M02R connector.
Incidentally, do you know how to remove the radio unit so I can have a look at the back? I attempted to pry off the surrounding plastic with a screwdriver wrapped in cloth and it seems like it would damage/break the plastic.

Posted by: ajlempka Dec 22 2011, 11:51 AM

To get the plastic off from around the stereo I took an old butter knife and melted the tip and bent it 90degrees and then heated it up again and melted it another 90degrees. So in the end you have a tool allows you to pull it straight back off of the body. Its just a bunch of clips so just pry around it and then start taking it off.

Posted by: kish21 Dec 22 2011, 10:08 PM

I took off the plastic and here are some pics of the steering wheel column. I guess the knuckle you were talking about was actually connector M02R, and you are right, there are 8 wires coming out of it.
I still couldn't get the plastic off around the radio, but I guess I won't be needing to, hopefully. The next step is to figure out how to take off the steering wheel. My hunch is that it has to do with the large nut in the center of the wheel.
I will be getting my parts either tomorrow or Saturday, I will post more information as I move along.

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/841/58022978.jpg/

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/36/32920341.jpg/

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/535/80546827.jpg/

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/833/85448256.jpg/

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/197/31419987.jpg/

Posted by: kish21 Dec 29 2011, 02:59 AM

Long story short.

I ordered through the Hyundai parts dept @ the dealership. The part #: 56190-2H000 (extension cable/y-splitter for left hand side) was an invalid part # and I didn't get the cable. The part #: 96700-2H200-S4 (button module for left hand side) looked like it was going to fit, but the silver plastic had a honeycomb texture to it, whereas my stock blank is smooth plastic. I didn't want this mismatch so I sent it back. In the end, I couldn't get either part. So then I ordered again, this time through Ebay, and my parts didn't come in yet from Korea, so I will post update when they do.

Posted by: ajlempka Jan 4 2012, 12:02 PM

On a side note, where did you get these diagrams from kish21? HMAservice's are too small way to difficult to read.

Posted by: kish21 Jan 6 2012, 01:59 AM

From HMA service, full screen mode aka "pop-up viewer".

Posted by: kish21 Jan 8 2012, 04:06 AM

Okay I got the parts from South Korea yesterday, and today I got to work. Project was successful!
First lets have a look at what I got:

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/690/24687927.jpg/
Switches 96700 2H200-S4

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/805/80661197.jpg/
and y-splitter extension cable 56190 2H200

Unfortunately, the switches were of the same kind as the one I ordered earlier through the dealership. They were silver color, but had a honeycomb texture.
Next thing I did was without removing the existing blank insert, I plugged in the new switches and extension cable to see if it works.
Fortunately it did! See below:

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/443/85343814o.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/88/32728582.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/585/32131598.jpg/

Next step was to remove the existing blank plastic, and this is where things got frustrating.
The proper way to do this is to first remove the steering wheel off the column completely in order to access the two screws to remove the blank. Unfortunately, a special tool made especially for removing steering wheels is needed to do this, and of course I don't have it. I tried trying to yank it off by removing the large nut in the center of the wheel, but damn the thing is solid. It was getting late at night and I was getting impatient to go hunting for another tool, so I went to plan B. This involved putting a phillips bit into a the small opening through the front of the wheel and very very very slowly removing the two screws. I used a needle-nose pliers to get enough torque to unscrew those screws:

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/210/50906921.jpg/

The whole process was very long and frustrating as the gap was very small and the screw was very tightly held. It took me well over two hours and cut fingers to get those two damn screws off. Those metal are sharp, be careful! Anywho, the final result was this, getting that blank piece off:

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/31/93729006.jpg/

Next I removed the existing extension cable for the cruise control, and installed the new y-splitter extension cable. One very important thing to note here, the cruise control side is missing one cable, the yellow one. Without this, the cruise control light wouldn't even turn on. Simple fix was I ran a cable from pin #3 of the MM01 connector to pin #8 on the M60 connector.

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/407/28641353.jpg/

And here is the final result! Overall, it was a good project. If someone else is planning on doing this, do yourself a favor and definitely get the tool to remove the steering wheel. I spent at least 3 hours total just trying to remove and insert those switches.
Overall difficulty 10/10 the way I did it. Otherwise with the proper tool, i'd say 6/10.

Posted by: ajlempka Jan 8 2012, 10:13 PM

Hey what was the price difference between the dealership and South Korea?

Posted by: Red Elantra Jan 8 2012, 10:18 PM

Hey-I rented the tool to remove the steering wheel from a car a while ago. If you're thinking about any project that involves taking the steering wheel out, see if the parts shop near you rents tools.

Posted by: kish21 Jan 8 2012, 10:50 PM

Ebay/SK was $57.
Dealership was $98.
Both include switches + wire.

Here is that tool to remove the steering wheel. This is the specific one for Hyundai/Kia. I don't know if you can rent it, but if you can, that would be great.

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/233/78078284.png/

And here is quick instructions on how to proceed:

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/7/24721667.png/

Full PDF: http://144.162.92.233/faculty/shop/hyundai/2007/HD/ST.swf

Posted by: ajlempka Jan 9 2012, 12:03 AM

Awesome I ordered the part. Thanks for all the info. Greatly appreciated.

Posted by: ronjr8102 Jan 9 2012, 02:20 AM

Nice job. That is one mod that hopefully will happen this year. Gonna be hard to convince the wifey with a wedding in July.

Posted by: mlumz Jan 9 2012, 02:54 AM

great work

Posted by: elantragt Jan 9 2012, 09:12 AM

I'm adding this to our ElantraWiki!

Posted by: kish21 Jan 9 2012, 07:56 PM

Np, hope you guys enjoy this mod as much as I did.

Posted by: Vinnie Jan 9 2012, 08:13 PM

Great job!!!

Side note the honeycomb texture is the normal texture. It's the same type I have which is also on my floor console and such.

Posted by: sarge Jan 10 2012, 07:13 AM

Sweeeettt!

So it's Honeycomb on the one side and smooth on the other Vinnie? That's standard? Seems odd.

Posted by: Vinnie Jan 10 2012, 07:24 AM

both of my steering wheel button sides are honey comb.

Posted by: Popkorn Jan 10 2012, 06:07 PM

The $10 kit will do the trick
http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?keyword=wheel+puller

Posted by: SpeedyTheSnail Apr 11 2012, 08:33 PM

For the record:
You do NOT need to remove the steering wheel, nor the blank plastic plate to install the buttons.
EDIT:
Tools required:
T40 Torx bit
Flat head screw driver, small size (Like electronics screwdriver size)
Flat head screw driver, medium size
Possibly a pair of pliers (I used it to pull wires out)
Patience

Hear me out:

Today I was looking at the steering wheel plate that is there, and you do not need to unscrew it. Instead, remove the airbag as well as the three screws holding the metal contraption that just so happens to be your horn. Be sure to unplug the wires first!
Next, if you look at the controls that you want to install, you will notice how the silver plate is secured to the assembly: 4 clips. Pry those clips up without breaking them, and the silver cover comes off with the buttons, exposing the circuit board underneath. Remove the circuit board, and put aside for use in a second.
Now that you have taken apart the steering wheel controls, you must find a way to remove the silver honeycomb plate on the left side of your steering wheel. If you haven't guessed it by now, it holds onto the main assembly by 4 clips, just as on the new unit you want to install. You will only be able to lift up two of the clips but that is more than enough. Pry from the clip side with a flat head screw driver, until the plastic plate snaps off.
You are left with the part that is screwed into the steering wheel. Put the circuit board in the housing on the steering wheel exactly how you found it in your new unit (You may have to press hard to get it to snap into place). Then put the plastic cover that has the buttons on, making sure you hear the clicks of the four tabs snapping into place.
You have just saved a lot of time by doing this, I know that it only took me about ten or fifteen minutes to install my controls (pics later, when I find my camera). I have not taken pictures, as I did not expect to find a new method to install the radio controls that would be easier.

In addition to your wiring harness issue, of the yellow wire missing on the cruise control side of the Y-cable, if you look at your old harness, you will see tiny notches on the TOP side of the connector, both ends.
The fat square connector has a notch on the top, which you can pry up a little with a tiny screw driver. It will not come all the way up, but just enough to where you will be able to pull out all the wires if you wish, with a little bit of force. Be sure that it is pried up, or you may break the wire.
On the other end of the wiring harness, which is the flat rectangular end, there is also a notch on top. But instead of prying up, pry up a LITTLE and then slide the white part of the connector to the left. You will see that you have exposed the other side of the wires. Press down GENTLY onto the copper part of the wire, which is semi-springy in order to release it from the plug, while also pulling the wire gently out.
Doing this will save you from trying to figure out how to connect the cruise control up.
To install the wire you just removed, you are going to need to open up the connectors on the new wiring harness, and place the yellow wire in the same spot that it was on the old harness, which you will notice is empty on the new one. Secure the connectors by pushing the locking mechanism down, or by sliding the locking cover to the right.

Be sure that you will not need your old harness, because I effectively destroyed my old one before I figured out this method, but my new one is in pristine condition because I properly opened it to install the wire.

Posted by: dirtydave Apr 12 2012, 11:02 AM

I would strongly discourage the removal of the airbag from the steering wheel by anyone who is not a certified tech or does not have a backup airbag. That is something that is a safety (requirement?) feature that without can cause serious damage to the driver. Now, I realize the unplugging wires and all will help, but you really never know if there is voltage stored somewhere that could cause everything to go boom unannounced.

Posted by: SpeedyTheSnail Apr 12 2012, 05:25 PM

I would discourage people who are unfamiliar with any sort of hazardous maintenance from removing the airbag.

This addition states that the removal of the airbag is necessary, and following the proper procedure in the manual is about as safe as you can get. When you unplug the battery and try to turn the ignition, a lot of voltage in the lines is drained. The remaining voltage will dissipate after not too long. I am not expecting the airbag to go off in my hands for any reason other than the specified voltage or amperage, going through the airbags terminals. I do not know, because I am not a certified tech for Hyundai's, however I am an aircraft mechanic, so I trust my skills and experience. I have safely removed airbags off of three different vehicles, the first two I was nervous about but now I am confident that it won't go off if I do not screw around.

I put the airbag back in of course, as I do not want my face suddenly slamming into a metal rod/ backing of the steering wheel. The airbag system should, as it passed the self check that it does when you start your car.

Posted by: dirkg Nov 18 2013, 06:14 PM

For my Canadian brothers and sisters, just to add to this briefly, I have a 2010 Elantra GL A/T.

I was able to buy the steering wheel audio controls and y-harness for 50 bucks from South Korea, and used the technique that Snail used to put the new controls in, prying up the blank and removing the plate while leaving the lower portion in... circuit board in, snap new buttons on. I added the yellow wire by grabbing a wire from an old computer that had a metal contacts on the ends, and slipping it into the Y-harness.

The main reason I'm expanding on the post was connecting the ASWC-1 that I bought to go with my new Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS HU to interface with the new steering wheel controls. Their online instructions don't work; wrong harness, wrong wiring config.

After researching and testing I found out that the following actually works:

Hyundai/Kia 1787 shell (same as the Elantra 2010 Touring)
Harness - Crutchfield #120 70-7303

BUT, the instructions should read:

3) Connect the Green/Orange wire of the ASWC-1 to C2 pin 5 of the vehicle harness (not C2 pin 1).

4) Connect C2 pin 6 of the vehicles harness to chassis ground (not C2 pin 2). You may use the same
chassis ground as the black wire.

Hope this helps. If only I could find the right fascia... but 1 thing at a time

Posted by: thatpreston Feb 16 2014, 02:21 PM

Thanks for the info! Just ordered my parts!