Hello All,

I recently brushed the front left of my car giving it a nice baseball size dent and a good scuff... I am thinking about at least knocking the dent out before taking this thing to a body shop or possibly trying to touch up my self. Can anyone tell me how if possible can I take off the front left fender of my 2013 Elantra GT GLS?

My niece just bought a '14 Elantra SE base.

I'm assuming this has the factory alarm. We were wondering exactly how that works and what it does.
Like, if someone tries to open the handle, will it sound?

What is the best after market alarm for this car? Her concern is when it's in front of her house, she wants to make sure no one is touching it or trying to get in. There are unsupervised kids and sometime not so nice adults around.

Thanks in advance!

Amy

Tire pressure, not throttle position. Mine went off on my 2013 over the weekend. All tires seem fine pressure-wise (32 psi +/- 2 lbs). Can I try to reset it by disconnecting the battery for 10 minutes or so before taking it to the dealer?

Likely going to get a 2014 EX. Anyone have any tips, suggestions, cautions etc.?

....I live in Northern Illinois and the Elantra Limited I have my eyes on has "Performance tires" on it.

I just noticed this.

Supposed to go to the dealer tomorrow to work out the money.

Is it an OPTION to ask for all weather tires on this car ?

Or is the "Limited" a car that needs performance tires ??

Very worried about bad traction in bad/cold weather.

Thanks in advance .

jw11

Ok, so lately I have been getting a buzzing, sort of vibration type noise in front of the steering wheel around the base area of the windshield like something is loose with no real rhyme or reason to it. Some days its loud enough that I can hear it over my radio and other days its barely noticeable, but still there; it just comes and goes.

Its a 2012 and at first I thought it might have been a speaker I was hearing but that doesn't seem to be the case and I am after trying to see if it happens following hard acceleration, hard braking, turning the wheel so on and so forth and getting nothing definite. Everything works fine otherwise. I have gotten no other noticeable effects on the vehicle. It just happens and I am about out of ideas.

Anyone have any thoughts?

It's approaching the time to get a new (or newer) car; currently I have an 2002 Elantra GLS with the tibby sway bar and big brake upgrade -- bought it used over 10 years ago.

Loving Hyundai - the reliability, styling, warranty, value, etc - I'm naturally drawn to the new Elantra. But today it hit me... I'm going to shell out tens of thousands for a new car and get what...:
* Worse steering?
* Worse suspension?
* And an smaller engine that probably feels more anemic (especially since I live in Oregon and all cars are PZEV, which can make engines loose their edge, even if on paper there's only minimal hp loss)?

I know there will be some gains too, like better crash ratings (a big one, as the early XDs scored abysmally), better technology, and marginally better fuel economy, but that's going to be the same with virtually all newer cars across the board.

How can this be? How can newer seem worse in so many ways?? It's kind of depressing.

Granted, I've not driven the new Elantra, but I've seen many threads on the suspension -- which admittedly seems easy and cheap to fix. But even then, could the rear torsion beam in the MD ever come close to the XDs independent suspension? Could the MD ever be as much fun as the XD?

Have any XD owners made the jump to the MD, and what are your thoughts on my concerns?

Much Thanks,

PS -- I'm aware of the "sport" trim, that could fix the power issue, but it comes with way too much stuff I dislike or have no interest in. The bigger engine was a great idea, but Hyundai's implementation was horrific -- they should have just made the larger engine an option, not an entire trim level you're locked into -- with a bunch of stuff your forced into buying with it. Mega lame.

Are the 2013 and 2014 Elantra GL sadans the same? I'm looking to get a set of Weathertech front and rear mats for our 2014, but they haven't produced them yet. So I was wondering if the 2013 and the same?

Hello everyone.
I recently got a great deal on a new leather steering wheel for my 2013 Elantra. I was wondering if anyone out there ever try removing the steering wheel? Appreciate any help...

Thanks

Nice updates for 2015





from article:
FOUNTAIN VALLEY, Calif., July 3, 2014 – The Hyundai Elantra returns for the 2015 model year with new features and packaging updates to give shoppers even more value and style. The award-winning compact continues its high value proposition as a strong choice in this highly-competitive segment, validated by several coveted accolades over the model’s lifecycle, including ranking the highest in its segment for initial quality in the influential J.D. Power 2014 U.S. Initial Quality StudySM (IQS). Elantra is also the recipient of multiple ALG Residual Value Awards and remains one of the top-shopped vehicles in the segment.

49 pictures and full press release

.

Just saw one in the back lot at lunch. I was taking my lunchtime walk through the lots and saw this bright red Elantra sedan with an exhaust tip. Naturally, I was confused because Elantra sedans and hatches have hidden exhaust.

Apparently the "Sport" version puts the Hatch/Coupe 2.0 in and gives you an acutal exhaust tip. Looks good.

My Elentra is 2013 bought in Bangkok,Thailand but not have cruise control function, I need to use it because have to drive 200 km/day. I need all Members advise how can i install? they have kits set to buy? I know that some contry it have i standard car but my place not have.

Thans in advance for all answer.

Hi,
I went to this link:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/LOW-PRICE-2011-201...894&vxp=mtr

as provided in the forum; however, it shows that the spare is compatible with 2011, 12, 13..... mine is a 2014. I would think it's the same, but I don't want to assume. This chick needs a spare, man!

2013 Elantra GLS. Came with tire inflator and fix a flat. I bought a used aluminum original equipment 5 spoke wheel off e-bay for $99 (shipping included), a new Goodyear Eagle LS tire for $106 mounted and balanced with new valve, but no tire pressure sensor. A new scissors jack was $24 at Wal-Mart and I already had a spare breaker bar and socket. For $230 I have a real spare that I can use at highway speeds on a long trip if I should get a flat or have a blowout. My dealer is selling the donut spare kit for $229 (search this forum for a better price if that is how you want to go).

If I bought a used (and likely dirty) jack I could have saved a few bucks. I also could have bought a used tire, but I wanted a new one that would be safe for many years. I kept my last car for 17 years and hope to get 10 years from the Elantra.

The full size spare fits right in the well in the trunk. The trunk mat fits perfectly on top of it. I tossed the Styrofoam liner that held the fix a flat and inflator.

Back when I was at the car wash and my bumper came apart at the clips on the driver's side I filled out a claim form . I asked what happens next and they said that Delta Sonic would investigate the claim and look at the video to see what happened and get back to me . 2 weeks later I get this letter : ( or see below depending on where the pic ended up )

I called them and explained that there was no paint damage and it probably just needed a clip , so they made an appointment for today at 11am . prior to that I stopped there on sat morning to make sure they would be ready and Nick assured me they would be ready come tues . Guess what ? they didn't even order a clip or anything else and the guy told me he thinks the bumper isn't even attached to the car on the driver's side . I told him how I stopped by earlier to avoid this exact situation and he understood my issue . He took a bunch of pics for reference and told me he could get a complimentary interior cleaning so it wouldn't be a wasted trip to which I agreed , but only after making sure it didn't wipe out the claim in accepting the cleaning . I can only assume if it is more than just replacing a clip they will do everything they can to avoid responsibility . If that happens I'm guessing small claims court , but how to even do that I don't have a clue . What would you do ?

our 2012 elantra gls with 112k miles on it decided to freak out yesterday.

Car wont turn over at all. there is also a clicking sound coming from the interior fuse block.
I popped the hood and smelled sulfur. I put the volt meter to the battery and it shows 12.8 ish.
I checked all the fuses and didn't find any blown.
I also pulled the starter relay and tested it and it checked out.

trying to turn the car over some times the dash light will flicker and the wipers will turn on by themselves. I also had a clicking sound coming from the fuse block under the hood.
interior lights come on but are dim and the parking light flicker a bit and fade.
I downloaded the manual but am not sure what to look for at this point.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

thank you.

hi , i have receive my new lips friday , is a Sequence spec-1. I really look forward too in the spring to install any new lips and diffuser !!

Have any of you bought a new spare tire for your Elantra? As you know, the car does not have one and the tire costs
about 200.00. I was told that tires do not last forever and eventually deteriorate even when new.

Hello Everybody,

New to the forum. I have a 2012 Elantra LTD which has the larger rims and low profile tires. I love this car, but it has one problem. When you hit bumps in the corner or on a strait away it hops and has a pretty noticeable sway. The jolt can be pretty harsh.

I'm betting the struts should go first. Any recommendations on replacements?

I also have been told that the '03 Tiburon rear sway bar is an option. However the dealer told me it wouldn't fit.

What is the best way to go. I love the car and in the corners it is a fun drive, just until you hit a bump! I am about to pay it off so I am willing to spend a few bucks to solve, or reduce the problem.

Sorry if this is already posted elsewhere, just couldn't find it!

Rick

Hello I am new to this forum, and this is my first post so please bear with me. Haha

I recently put a magnaflow muffler on my 2013 elantra. I only change the muffler and I left the resonator in place. I wanted to know if anyone has removed their resonator and how much of a difference didn't make. It looks very small so I don't know if it would be much of a difference at all.

Thanks

I bought two 2013 Elantras and by sheer luck I ended up with one made in Korea and one made in the US. Although they are the exact same model with the exact same trim option, I have noticed some differences. The one that's bugging me the most is the maintenance schedule. The Korean built model says that the coolant should be changed for the first time at 120k miles, but the US model says it needs to be changed at 60k miles.

I can't understand why they would have such a big difference in that maintenance item. Is there a difference in the coolant that was used at the two plants? Do the cooling systems use different materials in some components?

If anyone has insight on this I'd love to hear what you have to say.

Thanks.

Sometimes I simply don't understand Hyundai marketing... even to this day. Case in point the 2014 Elantras in North America. My concern/questions are..

In America, there are two top of the line models.. The Limited and the Sport. The Sport comes with the new more powerful, 2.0 engine the Limited, the 1.8 only. Makes sense, I think. But why does the Limited here come with the sportier new wheels and the Sport gets conservative ones? In Canada, there is no Sport model and their Limited is essentially our Sport model (2.0 engine) but with those sportier wheels. Their Limited has a chrome exhaust tip, our doesn't. Also Hyundai USA mentions the Sport model comes standard with a rear spoiler but it actually doesn't. I realize it's been done for years but I don't get the confusion.

Anyway here's the link to the review:

http://thechronicleherald.ca/wheelsnews/11...a-limited-sedan

Hello, I have a 2012 Elantra Limited. It has 15,000 miles on it. Since day one it has had an engine noise that can be heard on cold starts only. After it warms up it is very quiet. Hardly know that it is running after it is fully warmed up. I have personally talked to two owners of 2013 Elantras that have no noise at all on cold start.
The noise sounds like loose valve adjustments. It is an upper engine noise and it clatters loudly. You can hear it in the car with doors closed. The noise eventually goes away after about 2 minutes. I had it in twice to the dealership. They say it is fuel injector noise and that it is not unusual.
I just want to know from other 2012 Elantra owners if their cars are quiet on cold start or if they clatter loudly for a little while.
Thank you.

Hi all, hoping someone can help. I have a 2013 Elantra Coupe that I need to replace the lower grille on due to being cracked. I want to go to a chrome grill but the coupe did not come with that option. I am hoping that someone that has a 2013 Elantra sedan can provide me measurements of their lower grille to see if one would fit. My part # ends in X500 and I know the X200 is the chrome one. The Y200 is to short. I contacted a dealer but they were not helpful. However, he did see that the X500 cross referenced to a sedan as well as a coupe. However, when I contacted a seller that has the X200 I was told it wouldnt fit due to the coupe having a different bumper and I would need to replace the bumper and fog lights for it to fit. Has anyone changed out a coupe to chrome? Or can someone provide me the measurements of a chrome one from a sedan? Thanks

I have a question about the seemingly lack of five or six speed manual transmissions for a newer Elantra. When I went to purchase my 2012 I had never had an automatic in a four cylinder car in my life. I had always felt more comfortable in my ability to control a car by having the ability to use the gears and engine torque to slow the car for stops of that forgotten tight curve on a country road. When I went to my dealer (Biggest Hyundai dealer in the Richmond Area) they did not have a single non automatic on the lot and I was also told that unless I purchased a base GLS model that only an automatic was avaliable. My question is why is Hyundai pushing the six speed auto so hard? Is it a tool to seperate the more sporty Kia image from Hyundai as the more sedate and fuel saver car?
Although I miss my down shifting and watching the tach do the dance of power I have gotten use to the auto and we have come to grips. Remember I still have my 02 GT to keep my more sporty side happy and yes, I understand that the shift lever does have the right side, however, it is just not the same as an actual 5-Speed Stick.

I bought a 2013 Elantra 6-speed manual on last November 11. Overall, I'm very impressed with the car. I'm coming out of a 1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder (auto, non-turbo unfortunately) which gave excellent service for just short of 17 years and 156,000 miles. The two cars are designed for different purposes and have very different personalities. The Eclipse was fun to toss around, had excellent handling and of course, was great with the top down. The Elantra is much more comfortable, quiet and gets much better mileage. Shifting gears manually is the best! I hate automatics! I did the first oil change at 1,750 miles and will do the next at 4,000 miles and then every 4,000 miles thereafter. I'm old school and do not trust the extended change intervals. The last 2 cars in our family went 196,000 miles and 156,000 miles with no internal engine work, so I'm sticking with what has worked for me.

After 2000 miles on the Elantra these are the plusses and minuses I see

Plusses: Great gas mileage, between 38-42 mpg. I drive gently and do most of my driving between 30-60 mph on suburban roads. On the interstate at 75-80 mph mileage drops to about 36-37.
After the Eclipse, this car is amazingly quiet, especially on good roads. On bad pavement tire noise gets loud and there is more wind noise at the passenger door than I'd like.
The engine is silent at idle and very quiet cruising around town.
Acceleration is decent and the engine pulls well from 1500 rpm, which is more flexible than most 4 cylinders I've owned which needed to be closer to 2000 rpm.
The interior is very nice for a $16,600 car. The standard equipment for that price is phenomenal. Power windows, locks, cruise control, stereo CD, A/C, aluminum wheels, 4 wheel disk brakes at this price is a real bonus.
The clutch is smooth and the shifter is easy, though 6 gears are a lot and going from 5th to 6th occasionally finds me going into 4th by mistake and downshifting into third from 6th sometimes me going into 5th. I'm
getting better as the miles pile up. (I've driven a stick since I was 16, in my 60's now, the Eclipse was the only automatic I've owned.)
The engine uses a spin-on filter which is great because I do my own maintenance and hate the cartridge filter on my wife's RAV 4 V6.
Smooth ride on good roads.

Minuses:
Handling could be better, especially the feeling that the rear end could break loose during hard cornering. (The Eclipse spoiled me here, but again these cars were designed for different purposes.) I've read the posts
about upgrading the rear shocks and adding a rear sway bar with interest. If I was sure I wouldn't give up ride quality, I'd consider both mods. I usually drive gently, so this isn't a major issue. No doubt the tires
have soft sidewalls that are designed to maximize ride comfort, too. I also would like more road feel from the Electric Power steering, but EPS systems have a long way to go at this point in their evolution in all makes.
Wind noise, especially around the passenger door seems louder than it should be. I will have the dealer check this out.
The stereo system is weak. I hate taking door panels off (it seems they are never tight after they come off) but a speaker upgrade may be a necessity.
Of course, not having a spare in a car that is otherwise so well equipped is a bummer. I'll pick up a spare wheel and buy a tire and have a full size spare.
The cheesy dipstick, single door lock and no trunk key lock are cost savings measures that detract from the overall feeling of quality.

I'm looking forward to driving this car for 10 years. At this stage of my life I enjoy the quiet, smoothness and great mileage. I hope it is as reliable as the Eclipse was. (The dealer replaced a cat converter under warranty, fixed the harmonic balancer pulley and I replaced a cam position sensor and changed the timing belt twice, changed the oil, filters and brake pads -- that was it in 156,000 miles. When I traded it in it still had the original top and it didn't use any oil between changes and the oil came out looking new after each 3,500 mile interval.)

New elantra, and my son bumped the car with the rubber trash can last night setting off the alarm. He came running to tell me Dad your alarm going off. I couldn't hear it in the house, I open the door and I barely heard a beep, beep. I mean its like the 98lb weakling who gets sand kicks in his face and goes whining to his mommy. I want a GET THE HE77 AWAY FROM THE CAR ALARM, can I switch out the alarm horn or is there more to it?

So how did I end up with an Elantra?

Well, I wanted to have a practical, fuel-efficient, sedan that was quiet and comfortable.

I started searching for cars, first looking at the Honda Fit and Honda Civic, as recommended by fellow S2KI members. I didn't care for the boxy styling of the fit, I wanted something a little sleeker. The Civic was nice, but it was a bit pricey, so I didn't just jump on it.

As I expanded my search beyond Honda, I had a criteria of 3 things that my daily driver should have.

1) Timing Chain rather than timing belt. I figure this could only help with longevity, and nowadays timing chains aren't that noisy. This was a major factor in eliminating potential cars.

2) Alloy Wheels. This knocked out the Corolla and Camry, as the base model ones have steel wheels, and the ones with alloys are pricier.

3) Manual with 6, not 5, gears. This knocked out the Focus and Fiesta, as the ones I test drove were 5 speeds.

The Civic, Elantra, and Mazda 3 all met these criteria, but the Civic was pricier than the Mazda and the Hyundai, so I eliminated it. With only the Mazda and Hyundai left, it was a close call on paper. But once I test drove both cars, the decision was clear.

The Mazda 3 is a great car. It was among the quickest of all the cars I drove, and may even be more efficient than the Elantra (now that the Elantra doesn't get the EPA 40 MPG (I don't get 40 MPG with my driving style anyway)). But the Elantra's interior completely blew it away. Miles better in my opinion, particularly the parallel lines on the arm rests and lower storage spaces. The radio display and A/C controls seemed newer and more original as well. And while the prices between these 2 were similar, the Elantra had the best warranty.

I was thinking all along that I was going to get a used car, but it was hard to find a 2011 or later manual Elantra near me for less than what local dealers were offering for new 2013 ones, so I sprung for a new one.

Let me first off state that overall, I'm very impressed with the 2013 Hyundai Elantra GLS. It's a powerful, agile, and fully-featured car.

BUT....

It's stated fuel efficiency (I think 29/38 for automatic) I think is misleading.

Prior to this car, I had a 1999 Saturn SL2 (manual). I bought the Elantra because someone totaled the Saturn. Doing the exact same driving conditions I do now, I got an average of 31-32 mpg and if I happened to do a bunch of highway I could easily get 35-37.

With the Elantra, I think I hit 31 mpg for a single tank of gas thus far. All other times have been below 30 mpg, sometimes as low as 26-27. That is very disappointing.

I mainly drive around my home town so not a lot of freeway miles so far. However, when I have done a bunch of freeway miles, I fully expected my overall mileage to improve. It does, but only very slightly (and yes, I understand how average driving conditions could mitigate the highway mileage). In the Saturn, the mileage difference would have been significantly noticeable.

The car has about 2700 miles on it; it has 16" alloys with a doughnut spare tire. I drive with ECO on. I don't constantly floor the gas or high-rev the engine. I drive no differently in this car than I did the Saturn, other than the fact that the Saturn was a manual and I would always shift around 2500+RPM.

I secretly wish I can bring it into the dealer and go "wtf" and they'll say, oh...we can just tweak something in the computer and voila. Okay, and then I wake up.