You may be noticing some wheel hop or delay of power when you press the pedal. This may be a result in a torn/worn engine mount.

There is the option to have this mount replaced with a factory rubber one, or upgrade to a Polyurethane one. Replacing the factory one is rather simple as it comes in a complete mount. You would need to remove the old one (4 bolts) and reinstall the new one.

The YaYa bushing that KSpec uses is available in 2 forms. One that is pre-installed to an engine mount which would be a 'simple' replacement, and the other which requires a bit more work. This WIKI/DIY will go through the process of the more difficult one.

NOTICE: This modification will cause more engine vibrations in the car. Most noticeably while sitting at idle under 1000rpm, above 1000 the noise is normal.

Tools needed:
-jack and jack stands
-14mm socket and ratchet, a 14mm wrench may also be needed
-socket extension - give more clearance from socket to ratchet
-ratchet extension - give a little more leverage when removing stubborn bolts
-hacksaw or dremel w/reinforced cutoff wheel
-2 flathead screwdrivers
-grease


Safety first! Jack up car and use jack stands in secure places while under the car. I went extra safe using stands, scissor jacks as well as having the wheels under the car

get under the car and oil up the bolts to make an easier removal. Using a 14MM socket/wrench remove 3 bolts holding the mount to the body, and 1 nut/bolt that holds the mount to the engine. These will be tight, be prepared to make an extension of your wrench/ratchet to get enough leverage.

You can see here that 1 of the 4 legs in the mount have been torn, there is another that is starting to get some cracks.

Old bushing vs new to be installed.

Cut out centre of bushing to get better access to the old bushing's ring.

Cut the ring so that it can be pushed out of the mount. I used a Dremel with a reinforced wheel to wear away at the ring. This took a while, but worked out very well. If you have a hacksaw, that would also do the trick.

You can now use a screw driver to bend the ring in, reducing the pressure on the mount and letting you to push it out.

Bushing and ring removed from mount.

I took this time to clean up the mount a bit and give it a nice rockerguard coating. I also cleaned up the threads on the bolts.
Now here's where the tricky part comes in.
You've got to get this nearly solid bushing into the engine mount. The trouble lies with the outer rings of the bushing are larger than the mount, so they need to be squished in so they will slide through. I had to use 2 screw drivers to work the bushing in. By hand I could get 3/4 of the bushing started through, but could not get the rest squished enough. I did not get a picture of this in the works, as both hands were used as well as my knee to give downward pressure on the bushing.

Using some grease will help the bushing slide through the mount.



Back under the car you will find that you cannot just slide the mount into place, as there will be 2 extra brackets attached to the engine-side mount. These are held on with a weld point on the top. If you wanted, you could remove this mount from the engine, remove the brackets and give it a nice painting. I did not due to time and effort.

Using a screwdriver and hammer you can get underneath the bracket and bend it up and out of the way, breaking the weld at the top.

Now you're ready to bold up your mount. You should use a bit of anti-seize as a good practice for any bolts you're putting back.

Make sure to put these bolts back in tight, as they hold a very important part of your car. Torque spec is 30-36lb.ft for the 3 bolts to the frame, and 36-48lb.ft for the bolt/nut

Now you can put the parts of the car back together that you took apart, and take it for a test drive. Enjoy the instant throttle response. You may also notice that your shifts are a little more precise (not sure how this would affect automatics)

Enjoy!!