Hey folks. I've had my door panels off a number of times while messing with (improving) the stereo in my 2008 Elantra. The door panels are a little looser than they used to be, which I attributed to them being removed and re-installed. Would anyone happen to know the Hyundai part numbers for the body pins? The pins come in three different colors, which I assumed meant that they were different sizes, or were to be installed in a particular position (hole). I've purchased body pins from Napa, but they were not Hyundai specific pins. The first time I removed them, the door panels were nice and tight, and I would like to get back to that point.
Wanting to hear from anyone who's put some Dynamat in the sedan boot lid. How much was needed, and did the extra weight affect the boot's ability to stay open?
G'day group. I have a 1996 Elantra GLS wagon that came new with a factory installed radio/cassette/CD player unit that is NOT shown in the accompanying 1996 model user manual for the vehicle. It is perplexing to try to figure out how to set, control and use the system because the only radio units shown in the car's user manual show an entirely different radio/cassette player (with no CD capability). Seems a bit odd to me that the unit I have is neither shown nor explained in the manual. Checking the Factory Service Manuals (the two volume set) for my model year also reveals no such system, either. You can see a photo of the unit I have here: http://www.crutchfield.com/S-YyPaVEsP5DO/c...d-Speakers.html (located about half way down the page, right side image...click on it for an enlarged image).
Before I do anything rash (like burn my user manual in frustration), do any of you have a similar unit in your 1996-2000 Elantra GLS wagon models? If so I would certainly appreciate a resolving vector in the direction of obtaining the correct user instructions for this system! Thanks in advance to any aspiring oracles in the group who are listening!
I decided to run an extra Battery, but wasn't sure where to put it. I got an idea and tore apart my car to do some test fitting. It will be for Kendra's car when its finished. After this is done I'll be doing the big 3. I will never run cheap caps again. They hurt your equipment, just run a extra batt and 4ga or better. I'm doing it this way for two reasons, 1. empty trunk space that can be used 2. for the wow or cool factor. I'll be making an amp rack for the amp to rest on too. Well when i get the video uploaded i will post it.
Video is up!!!
Make sure to Subscribe to me channel. Got lots of cool cars stuff there
I just bought a cap on Amazon (I forgot to go through the club affiliate... <cringe>... sorry Mitch... )
It's a 1 farad, which should be plenty for me since I don't have a large system. Great reviews, I'm excited to hook it up. However... it didn't come with the resistor to charge it. Can I use a battery charger by chance for the initial charge before hooking it up to my battery?
Hey all, I'm looking for some insight from the audio pros out there...
Right now, I'm currently running a Pioneer HU hooked up to a Clarion 7-band EQ. I have Pioneer 6X9s in the rear and JL audio components up front. That's all powered with an Alpine 4-channel amp. I absolutely love the way my music sounds. In my opinion, Pioneer makes the best HU when it comes to sound clarity and flexibility, and the EQ makes it even better. The rear 6X9s give me a ton of good clean bass, but I'd like to tone them down a little and get a dedicated sub.
I used to have a single 12" Type E in the trunk, but I wanted to get more trunk space back, so I got rid of it. I still need my trunk space, and I'm not into huge booming bass anymore. I listen to jazz, classic rock, movie soundtracks, classical, etc. What I want to do is custom-build a box that fits under the passenger seat and then put a shallow-mount 8" sub in it. With the sub being in the car, it won't need to be very loud- and if an 8" is tuned properly, it can hit pretty low.
I also don't want to add another amp if possible.. I feel like I'm taxing my alternator already with the the HU, EQ, amp, and plethora of other accessories I've added to the car over the years. I know many people run 5 speakers to a 4-channel amp- would this be feasible for me? Opinions and suggestions are welcome! Thank you!
I finally decided to try and tackle this... every time I take the keys out of my ignition, I hear a high-pitched feedback sound coming through my speakers. I've traced the problem back to the amp ( I think). I don't know if its a wiring issue or an amp issue. My car audio system is a 4-channel Alpine amp, a Pioneer HU, and a Clarion EQ. All three share a common ignition, separate grounds, and the HU and EQ share a power lead.
I also have several accessories I've hooked up in my car- I've hard-wired an inverter to my dash, I have a 12V outlet in my truck, and wired fog-lights off my trunk lid so I can see when hooking up my camper/trailer/etc. At first I thought the ignition lead was the same for all of these (including the stereo), but they're not. I have no clue what could be causing this sound through my speakers! Thoughts?
I have an 2009 Elantra with 6 speaker XM stereo . The car has about 50k miles. As of now the radio has started to loose fidelity intermittently, the speakers seem to become overwhelmed with static even though the music is still playing the speakers just kind of loose their fidelity to static. This isn't radio static as it happens on all inputs. I have taken the car back to the dealer who surmised that the issue was with the stereo itself and not wiring, unfortunately the stereo is only covered till 36k miles and would be 589$ to replace... yeah right. The issue doesn't seem to be triggered by anything in particular I've tried making it happen playing with the a/c, hazard lights, cruise control, anything electrical and nothing makes it start, the only thing i can say is that it seems to stop when i hit the dash. I have removed the radio myself and taken it apart to check if there was any bad soder and found no issues the wires and everything is clean and secure.
If anyone has run into this issue I would appreciate any insight, I don't want to have to put in an aftermarket or used factory radio if i don't have to.
I know for the HD we have stock component speakers. I don't remember sizes though (anyone wanna help me out there? I forgot to measure last time I took off my doors)
I'm thinking about upgrading and amping my speakers to make my 15" sub more complete and less lonely so I have full audio amazingness. I just got two JL tweeters in the front but it wasn't much of an improvement without amping them.
Anyway, I was wondering if I could get speakers (not component speakers where the woofer and tweeter are separate) and put them where the small mid woofer is. I think they are 6 1/2" in front (once again someone help me I forget).
If I did that, could I keep my tweeters in? Have them play off the stock stereo still and then have tweeters from my new speakers and the jl ones playing from the headunit? Does that make sense? Or will having one pair amped and one not just sound like crap.
Hey everyone, My grandma has a weird problem with the radio display in her 2006 Azera LTD (no infinity system) and I'm hoping someone here might be able to tell me how to fix. The display is very similar (other than backlight color) to the 07+ elantra radio. Basically in the pixellated display where it usually shows radio station/preset etc, it is all black. Any idea what causes this? At times it seems to flicker between normal and black so maybe something is loose or a light is burning out or something? Also, if anyone knows of a good forum to post this at for Azera owners please let me know.
VIA is planning to get some serious mileage out of its Eden X2 processor -- in the most literal sense possible. It's now producing the AMOS-3002, a Pico-ITX-sized PC intended for in-car infotainment and other situations where an embedded PC needs to have a little more juice for media tasks. The Eden X2 in question comes in a dual-core 1GHz flavor that's completely fanless, but it's fast enough to show 1080p video (when your car is parked, we hope) and can handle more intensive work like dual gigabit Ethernet jacks, optional 3G and even a 2.5-inch hard drive. That breadbox-sized shell can also take a lot of abuse, surviving temperatures between -4F and 140F as well as 50 Gs' worth of shock. You'll have to wait until your favorite car designer or digital sign maker uses the AMOS-3002 to see it in action, but until then, you can get the full details after the break.
VIA Announces Ultra Compact, Fanless VIA AMOS-3002 System
Delivers power efficient dual core processing in a ruggedized chassis system for a diversified range of embedded applications
Taipei, Taiwan, May 17, 2012 - VIA Technologies, Inc, a leading innovator of power efficient computing platforms, today announced the VIA AMOS-3002, an ultra compact, fanless system designed around the tiny VIA EPIA-P900 Pico-ITX board. The VIA AMOS-3002 provides embedded customers with a system that delivers all the latest features and digital media standards required for a diversified range of embedded applications including telematics, in-vehicle control, machine to machine controller (M2M), digital signage and kiosks.
Leveraging the digital prowess of the combined 1.0GHz VIA EdenTM X2 dual core processor and the VIA VX900H media system processor (MSP) on the VIA EPIA-P900 board, the VIA AMOS-3002 offers a powerful, rugged and HD-ready industrial-class PC that combines all the benefits of high performance 64-bit computing in an ultra compact system. The highly integrated, all-in-one VIA VX900H boasts ruthless hardware acceleration of the most demanding codecs, including MPEG-2, WMV9 and H.264, in resolutions up to 1080p across the latest display connectivity standards, including native HDMI support, for next generation multimedia-intensive applications.
"The VIA AMOS-3002 advances the ultra compact AMOS series systems, delivering fanless dual core computing and advanced multimedia capabilities," said Epan Wu, Head of the VIA Embedded Platform Division, VIA Technologies, Inc. "The superior versatility and reliable compact design of the VIA AMOS-3002 makes it ideal for a diversified range of embedded applications."
VIA AMOS-3002
The VIA AMOS-3002 is specifically designed to support the VIA EPIA-P900 Pico-ITX board, which combines a 1.0GHz EdenTM X2 processor and the VIA VX900H MSP, to operate completely fanlessly within a robust chassis measuring 19.7cm x 10.4cm x 4.9cm (WxDxH). The VIA AMOS-3002 has a certified operating temperature of -20 to 60 degrees C, vibration tolerance of up to 5Grms and a shock tolerance of up to 50G. The VIA AMOS-3002 is also available with the VIA EPIA-P830 featuring a 1.0GHz Nano E-Series processor, offering an operating temperature of -20 to 70 degrees C.
Storage is provided through a Cfast slot for a SATA interface Flash drive while an optional storage sub-system expansion chassis offers support for a standard 2.5" SATA drive. Comprehensive I/O functions on front and rear panels include two COM ports, six USB 2.0 ports, including two of which are lockable for increased ruggedization, line-in/out, one DIO port, one VGA and one HDMI port for display connectivity and two GLAN ports for dual Gigabit networking. Optional Wi-Fi and 3G networking are available through a MiniPCIe expansion slot.
I have recently purchased 2 bulk packs of Dynamat and a bunch of other audio equipment, JL Components Amps and Subs etc. to make my car sound like a mobile studio
The first step for me will me adding Dynamat to all four doors and the Trunk of my 2012 Elantra. Today I was going to get started, I removed all four door panels and to my surprise there is a thick plastic panel stoping me from accessing the metal shell of the door so I can install the Dynamat, also to make things even harder the door speakers are riveted in as opposed to screwed in.
So I took a trip to hmaservice.com to see how I am supposed to remove this plastic panel hindering my Dynamat Install. Hyundai calls this panel the "Door Module" and to my dismay it requires the removal of the window glass and outside door handel.
So my estimated 4 hour installation of dynamat and door speakers just turned into 8+ Hours.
Has anyone else out there attempted a dynamat install in their MD/UD elantra? Any Suggestions?
I will be using silvergls' Tutorial in the wiki section to install the speakers.
Hey everyone. I'm thinking about getting a dash GPS unit for my Elantra. I do a lot of travelling and I think I am going to get XM radio too. Does anyone know of any good GPS units that are compatible with XM radio that are reasonably price? Thanks in advance for your answers.
I noticed everyone goes through the fire wall when installing their amp power wire. When looking at my car , I noticed under the spare tire there is a rubber plug. Why not run your power wire from the battery allong your frame and into the trunk. then you wouldnt have to worry about running your RCA cables down the other side of the car. Any thoughts??
Hey all, I am a brand new proud owner of a 2010 Elantra. It didn't come with all the whistles and bells I wanted, but I could not pass it up with the price they offered me, and the fabulous warranties (Hyundai Certified Pre-owned). What I want to know is this: I want to put in an aftermarket bluetooth system, and I found a product on the internet that looks great. BUT it is coming out of China, and the info on it is limited from what I can find- no user reviews to speak of, although the basic product seems to be available for sale on lots of websites. Here's a link: http://www.cnbuynet.com/hyundai-elantra-07...pod-p-1385.html
Soooo... does anyone out there have any experience on these? Any thoughts? I thought, even if I have to pay someone double the cost to install it, to have GPS, handsfree voice activated bluetooth, backup camera, and all the other features mentioned, it would be worth it. AS LONG AS the product is what they claim it to be.
Let me know gang!!! I am prepared to be stunned and delighted by my new (to me) car!
So I've spent the past two weeks building a custom sub box. Originally I was gonna go with 2 10's but couldn't find the right depth to do it at (too short sealed, too deep ported). So I wound up buying a 15" SPL Sub. (Still using my Hifonics 1000.1d amp)
The box is a 2.4 cu. ft interior. The back was built with the exact height to fit under the arches in the back of the trunk. The from faceplate also just barely fits through the trunk opening. And yes I know there are some rough corners because of the 1x1's inside. I used plenty of wood glue and lots of acrylic latex sealant. Also, this was my very first box build (and a lot of fun at that). I used a simple hand saw for all my cuts (jigsaw for the hole). A table saw would have made things SO much easier... sadly I don't have access to one. Work with what you've got you know?
I read the other post about where to drill and that is a great spot for automatics. But my 04 elantra has a 5-speed and the hydrolic lines and stuff come trough that spot. Does anyone with a 5-speed know where to drill that is safe? if you give me some kind of idea i can look into it and post pictures if i deside to drill. thanks
Alright I'm sure you guys probably think I'm stupid for wanting to do this, but in all honesty, I want to do a mod that doesn't cost much. I have a PS2 just sitting around. I might as well stick it in my car right?
SO... question comes down to, where to put it and where should my power source be? The power inverter is a 12v.... so can I just splice the cord into my center console cigarette lighter?
I know they exist but I'm trying to find one in the USA . The garage I have at the apartment complex has no electricity . Therefore I need a garage opener that is battery powered . Does anyone know where I can get one besides the UK ?
Ok so i bought my sub box from a friend and he got it from a store. So its a prefabed box. I want to know what the box is tuned at. Im think i got pretty close but not sure. Ok here are the numbers i got.
Box H=15'' W=15.5'' D=17.5'' The Cu ft of the box should be 1.56cu ft.
Here is the port numbers H=11.5'' W=2.5'' and the total port length is 29'' I will tell you what i got after someone figures it out. Its just math, cant be that hard. Lol.
Doing my nerdy reading on engadget, I ran across this article: http://www.engadget.com/2012/02/17/nhtsa-i...-in-vehicle-el/ Seems pretty interesting, I wonder how this will impact any technological upgrade for any car. I know the University of Iowa (where I attend grad school) has NADS (the National Advanced Driving Simulator) where I've had friends who participated in research studies similar to fiddling around with a radio while driving.
So basically I had issues with my system ALL last summer... had to order three new amps, new sub, and new wires. Pain in the ass. But I've finally got it to work for the past four months or so no problems.
The system is pretty simple... Alpine Type R 10" sub powered by 1000W Hifonics sub with 4 gauge wire.
Recently, when I start the car up and get some music going, the sub only plays at about half capacity. Compared to how it usually plays to some of my favorite bass songs, it's been lacking. After roughly 5-10 minutes of driving though, it starts coming back at full force... First kind of edging in (like a heart beat) of hard hit then soft then hard then soft until eventually it's constantly playing at full force how it should be.
It's not a major issue if I have the patience, I'm just worried about any potential problems this may be foreseeing. Any suggestions? Possible loose connection?
Hey guys so as you may or may not have seen in some of my recent posts, I installed a new headunit a few weeks back. It is a 7" touch screen. It's a Power Acoustik PTID-7002NRB. I would recommend this product so long as you're willing to do some custom cutting.
I decided to buy this headunit for a number of reasons. 1) I wanted a new headunit. Simple as that. The stock one somewhat bored me and my subwoofer was only playing at a mediocre level with the line out converter. 2) I wanted a touchscreen. I figured I might as well get something that looked pretty sweet. 3) I was looking for a touch screen that could fit the HD. In the HD there is a plastic bar that runs across as a divider. This makes it only possible to install a single din dash kit (unless you do some major cutting to your stock dash which I wasn't prepared to do). So that meant a full out double din touch screen was out of the question. I also am not a big fan of the touch screens that fold upwards. I think they look awkward personally and I'd be afraid of pushing too hard and breaking it. So I needed one that would fold downwards. There are not many of this type that I could find 4) Relatively inexpensive. It has great reviews and for a touch screen it is a very good price. $235 for unit, dash kit, wiring harness, and three year extended warranty. I figured I couldn't go wrong.
So here goes. Caution: If you want to buy this exact unit, be prepared to do some cutting like did (steps shown later on)
Finally received the unit:
Organize all your tools and accessories. Begin the wiring. Follow all instructions. It's pretty self explanatory. On the harness packet and wiring kit they will tell you which wires do what. They work fairly color coordinated. Simply match up the wires, splice them, solder them, and then use electrical tape or heat shrink wrap. (I used the heat shrink, it's more convenient and tends to hold better)
Once the wiring is done, you can begin work on the car. REMEMBER. Disconnect your negative terminal. You do not want to blow a fuse or mess up your electrical components.
Take off your front dash panel. Insert a screwdriver with light cloth or some other flat object to lightly pry it forward. There are 8 connector pins. For more help with this, follow the DIY on the wiki page.
Disconnect the three terminals still holding the dash unit in place.
Once the stock unit is free, unscrew the four screws holding it in (in the picture I have already removed the screws).
Unplug the antenna and harness and remove the stock unit.
Install your headunit into your new dash kit. Line your screws up and tighten them so your headunit is firmly in place.
--------------------- This part of the DIY is specific for this model headunit -------------------------------------
So the one major problem I discovered was the single din of this headunit is slightly larger than a standard unit. Well, sort of. It's the right width, the issue is it needs to come out further so the screen can attach to it. Unfortunately the dash kit came with plastic stopping the unit from moving any farther forward.
As you can see from the pictures, I ended up having to do some cutting. It's very hard and durable plastic so it took nearly 2 hours to complete. I mainly used a screw driver to drill small holes next to each other and break the bits of plastic off. I finally sanded it down so the unit could come forward.
(Before)
(After)
---------------------------- This ends the cutting section --------------------------------------------------
Once everything is set up with your dash kit, plug your new wire harness into the stock harness.
Finally, plug the antenna, amp rca's and harnesses into the headunit.
Place the dash kit over the screwholes and attach it to the frame. Finally, plug everything back into your dash piece and snap it back in.
Remember to reattach your negative terminal. Test out your headunit to make sure it works.
Congrats it's now installed.
Here's some finished product pictures:
This is how it looks with the touch screen not attached. Very simple and you can clearly see how it is a single din. Does not look very appealing to robbers.
The actual touch screen not attached. (Aux cord is plugged in)
Features:
AM/FM Radio CD Player AUX input DVD Player Bluetooth GPS (optional) Steering wheel controls (optional) Internal memory for background pictures iPod ready Multiple RCA inputs and outputs
For more features click the link at the top.
I hope you guys like it!
- Dave
Here's a video showing it off along with a few other items:
Audio-Video Zone
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