Hi, My car wouldn't start today so my husband jumped it and we went to auto zone for a new battery. Nothing was left on so figured after five years and TWENTY FOUR DAYS, it might need a battery. Get to Auto Zone and was watching the guy take it out and the part that holds it is just falling apart. Took it to Hyundai and it's over $400 since you have to buy the whole thing not just the part I need. The service guy is going to contact Hyundai since it's only 24 days out of warranty and only has 28,000 miles. Is there anyone who carries this part or any suggestions??? It's a 2012 Elantra touring and this is the first problem I've had with it since I bought it new. [attachment=5662:14445744...092511_n.jpg] [attachment=5663:14483858...454840_n.jpg]

Sorry for being such a mechanic noob, could anyone tell me what the "hook" appendage is on the GT air intake hose?




thanks!

Does anyone know how to remove and replace the rear wiper blade on a 2013 Elantra GT? None of the part stores seem to sell the blade, but there are several sources on eBay. But there is no obvious way to get the old blade off, I want to make sure I can do this before I get a new one.

Thanks for your help.

I have a new 2014 Elantra GT and I need to get the oil filter off. Am I correct in thinking that the correct wrench for an OEM Hyundai oil filter would be 80mm with 15 flutes? Thanks.

Are the service manuals available online anywhere?

Thanks

Brian

My '04 GT has 227,000 miles on it and although it's running fine, I don't expect it to last much longer without requiring a major investment in parts and my time (it's almost all original). I'm looking at a low mileage (under 35K) 2012 Elantra Touring with a manual transmission, sunroof and leather (an SE).

Are there any known maintenance or performance issues with these cars?

I assume that the drivetrain is very similar to my '04, but are there any significant differences?

I noticed that the shifter has a collar for reverse now, which means that the short shifter in my '04 probably won't work. Is that correct and if so, is anyone making a short shifter for this car?

Thanks

Brian

I've had my 2011 Elantra Touring for almost exactly a year.

What I've noticed pretty much since the moment I drove off the dealer lot is that when I accelerate, especially with several people riding and/or uphill, I hear what I think is called "Engine pinging" or "valves tapping", i.e. this metallic noise similar to when you bang together small metal balls.

I remember hearing the same noise on my old Toyota years ago when I would try to accelerate in a gear that was too high. It was louder then but I am still concerned that maybe Elantra's engine is not tuned properly.

I am about to take it for an oil change to the dealer so might asked them about it then, but I was just curious whether many people have had the same experience. If so, were you able to fix it?

Thanks much!

Does the 2014 Elantra Gt need to be broken in before driving it a little harder? or is the engine broken in at the facotory?

The reverse collar on my shifter sticks up at the top when shifting out of reverse. Shouldn't it self-release and go back down? I have to push it back down, although it doesn't take any effort. I thought I'd try some graphite or silicone spray to see if that would help. Sure makes for interesting shifting if I forget to push it back down. I tried the search on this for my '11 Touring but came up with no matching topics. If anyone else has had this problem I would welcome a reply.

I took my car in for an oil change today.
The dealer I purchased the car from has a Ford service center near my work and they change my oil under a lifetime agreement.
After changing the oil they called asking about any 30k items I might want done because it is getting close.
Anyway, last summer (some might remember) I had repeated radio problems that they never could duplicate until it totally smoked.
They finally replaced it but had the same issue duplicating my complaints about poor A/C.
This winter, I had a coolant link that magically fixed itself.
At the time, the dealer thought it was just overflow because the car got warm running a long time at idle.

So, I told the Ford guys if they really wanted something to do; they could look at my A/C.
With it getting warmer, I found the A/C was poor especially at idle.

Well, it turns out my radiator fan is not turning on at idle. This accounts for the poor A/C and the overheating/overflow. They said I would have to take it to the main Hyundai shop to fix under warranty.
So, it takes a Ford dealer to find the problem. I have become aware this one Hyundai dealer can't troubleshoot out of a paper bag.
I should make them pay the bill from the Ford dealer. Once I get through with most of the main warranty years, I am going back to the dealer who took care of my Tucson.
It is nice to finally know that it wasn't my imagination and the A/C has sucked since the first summer.

Does anybody know where I can get front brake pads for a 2010 Elantra Touring GL? I bought a pair from NAPA and they weren't even close to the right pair... I went back and they couldn't find the correct set in their computer. Same thing happened at Autozone.

I have a feeling that i may need to by these from the dealer unless anyone else can provide some help?

FYI, the WRONG part number at autozone is D924

I am trying to connect a Scan Gauge so I can monitor engine performance while driving. Most cars have the OBD connector conveniently located under the dash or in the center console.

My new Elantra Touring has it under the hood! Ouch! My gauge comes with a cable, but I need suggestions on where to snake it through the firewall with minimum disruption. Are there any existing openings that are big enough? I can`t see any.

Thanks in advance.

First oil change (six months) since new for this car. Manual says 4.23 qt for a change with filter. I put in 4 qt and a new filter then drove the car around the block. Let the car set overnight. Next am the oil shows full on the dipstick for multiple checks. Is the manual wrong or am I doing something wrong? Thanks.

Had the third service done this morning on my 2010 Elantra GLS Touring Sport. I noticed that there is some oil all around the edges of the valve cover where it meets the head.

When I questioned the service desk about this they had a tech inspect it and he said it was only what they call "sweating" and is not covered by the "bumper-to-bumper" warranty.
I said but that is oil so the integrity of the gasket has failed. He said no...it is quite common and warranty will not cover this.

Any thoughts on this? Am I being fed a line here? I love my car but this is my first ever new car and I am very disappointed. My 11 yr old Subaru Forester has two valve covers and
neither of them have this "sweaty" leak. My GFs car is a 2004 Chevy Cav and that too is nice and dry around the same area.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Cheers,

Ralph.
Winnipeg, CANADA.

I just recently got my car back from the body shop (after a brief 29 days.....) and one of the last steps was performing a 4 wheel alignment. I asked for the alignment print-out and the shop was good enough to provide it for me. On the sheet it lists the alignment specs as being for:
2009 ELANTRA (all models)

Is there a difference in alignment specs for my 2010?

I have only covered 30km since picking the car up and due to the buildup of ice and snow on the roads I have not yet gotten a good chance to figure out whether it pulls or has other unfavorable handling characteristics. From the sheet it would appear they made some small changes to the camber and toe-in from when the car went into their shop, and the camber is 0.4* different from left-to-right on the front, and 0.2* different on the rear.

Hey all,

for the life of me i cannot find where the oil filter is situated under the car. I dont have a jack so i havent been able to lift the car yet, and ive been searching all over only to come up empty handed. can someone tell me the easiest way to go about this, also where its located at under the car. THANKS!

I have a new (May) Elantra Touring GLS. I just noticed the coolant level is below L in the reservoir. What would cause this on such a new car? I am going to take the car in for an oil change this week, but I am a bit concerned with the low coolant level in essentially a brand new car.
Any ideas of what might be going on? I checked the garage floor to see if it has coolant stains and it appears to be clean. Any help would be appreciated.

BTW I know very little about cars in general. Should the level be checked with the engine warmed or the engine completely cooled down?

Thanks...

I bought a new Touring last month and I am very happy with it so far. I just noticed today though that when I go over speed bumps(slow of course) there is a metallic clunk coming from the rear of the car. This just started, I have never noticed it before. Does anyone have any ideas as to what this could possibly be? Any and all help would be appreciated thanks.

I am due for an oil change for both my '10 Elantra Touring as well as '06 Chevy TrailBlazer. I am torn between going conventional or go to a full synthetic (Royal Purple/Mobil 1). Would spending extra money on synthetic for both vehicles worth it? I am also debating going aftermarket vs dealer oil filters. I have read all the posts regarding the filters and TSBs, so I'm a little hesistant in that regard. Can someone please shine some light into the matter?? Thank you all!!!!

I am having an issue with my 2010 Elantra Touring and I am wondering if it is normal. Whenever I let my foot off the clutch there is a knock/click that comes from the gearbox or clutch. It is definitely not a noise from the clutch actuator as it does not make the sound if the engine is not running. Is this a normal sound?


The reason I am curious is because I have been experiencing a knocking/rattling at idle. It happens only when the engine is fully warm and it is very intermittent. Sometimes it will happen once a week, other times it will happen every time I pull up to a light for an entire trip. It only makes the sound when the gearbox is in neutral and the clutch is engaged (my foot is completely off the pedal), it will rattle/knock at about the engine speed for 15-45 seconds and it will instantly stop if I step on the clutch (and it only very rarely returns when I let my foot off the clutch pedal). The knocking is loud enough you can hear it over the radio and feel it through the floor, steering wheel and most noticeably through the shifter. Unfortunately it seems to always happen when I am in traffic so I am unable to hop out and inspect the problem any closer.

Is this something anybody else has run into? Is it perhaps normal?

On a previous car I had, the dual mass flywheel was defective and made a rather similar racket to this. Does my Elantra Touring have a DMF?

Sorry for all the questions. I have had a big problem so far with my local dealership being strangely unable to duplicate some very annoying issues with my car so before I take it to them I like to have a good idea of what is wrong (that seems to be the only way to get them to fix things). The car has only 4485km on it right now and it has done this since it was brand new, although I don't remember the demo car I drove making this sound.