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elantragt |
172,192 |
20th June 2016 - 09:10 PM
Last post by: rsr145 |
Here's mine:
For washing the car:
Blue Coral Car Wash
Various Waxes:
3M Perfect-It Showcar Paste Wax
Zymol Cleaner Wax
Meguiar's NXT Tech Wax
Meguiars Cleaner Wax
Meguiar's Deep Crystal Carnuba Paste Wax
Mother's Carnuba Cleaner Wax
P21S Carnauba Wax
Poorboy's EX Sealant
For Quick Touch ups:
Meguiar's Quick Detailer
3M Perfect-It Gloss Enhancer
Mother's Showtime Instant Detailer
Polish
Meguiar's Deep Crystal Polish
For Claying:
Mother's California Gold Clay Bar
For Scratch Touch-ups:
Kit's Scratch Out
Meguiar's Scratch X
For the Tires:
Stoner's More Shine Less Time
For the Leather:
Klasse Leather Cleaner/Protectant
Pinnacle Leather Conditioner
For Interior Vinyl/Plastic:
303 Protectant
For the Glass:
Stoner's Invisible Glass
For Black Exterior Trim:
Black Again
Meguiar's Gold Class Trim Detailer
Stoner's Trim Shine
Mother's Back to Black
Bug & Tar Remover:
Blue Magic Tar & Bug Gel
For the Wheels
Castrol Super Clean All Wheel cleaner
Misc.
303 Wiper Blade Treatment
Small interior detail brush
Hand Held Euro-Vac
P21S Drying Towel
ArmorAll Wipes (don't use lol)
Various Microfiber towels... sponges, mitts, applicator pads, chamois, drying towels etc.
Elbow Grease
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Bigs |
90,165 |
19th September 2014 - 07:59 PM
Last post by: mlumz |
As I have noticed MANY topics on how to remove wax off trim, I decided to open a bran new one, PIN it and hopefully, people will see it at first glance!
The 70% Rubbing Alcohol with kitchen sponge with abrasive side method!This method I tested a few weeks back and it really works! You may alternate the kitchen sponge with a Mr Clean Magic Eraser.
Use the alcohol to drench the sponge. Rub the trim with the abrasive side. (You should start seing the wax come off and spread over) Wipe with the other side of the sponge (non-abrasive side OR use a damp cloth to wipe). Repeat the steps if required. Dress trim with your favorite dressing.
TIP: Don't hit the paint with the sponge!
The Mr Clean Magic Eraser method!Simple, use water and the eraser and go nuts. You may also use a detergent if it's tougher selants/waxes. Wipe with a damp cloth afterwards.
TIP: Don't hit the paint!
Poorboy's Trim Restorer and a good sponge!(not really a household product but...)
This used to be my own method prior to Alcohol... Same steps as above. The only issue, this is a restorer and will leave wet looking marks over your paint if you get some on. You can take those marks off with a good m/f towel.
This method takes a bit more time as it's a combo product. It dresses and restores trim but does take more elbow grease to obtain the results.
Forever Black is a product that some people have used with mixed emotions. I don't recommend spending the cash for this. Using the household products above and then dress the trim with a good dressing should be cheaper for ya!
Forever BlackNow, this is a thread on HOW TO REMOVE WAX from trim, not how to dress trim. So basically, Mother B2B doesn't work as it dresses trim only and does not remove wax, this goes for a ton of other dressing also.
I will keep adding to it as I find or test other ways/products.
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Rocket |
173,697 |
5th May 2012 - 08:38 PM
Last post by: ejwagon |
Hi everyone, New to this Forum and proud owner of a recently repaired Insurance Write Off.
The car is a 2006 XD Elantra 2.0 HVT Auto. Bought it from the "Hail Damaged "car Auctions.
Not sure how to post photos here so i will attempt to just use my photobucket. Here is the car being repaired -
Just after painting it -
During the week we had the car inspected at our Motor Registration Department and it was passed and Registered.
Now it sits in my garage and i will begin to Detail it properly over the next couple of weeks. First job will be a polish using the Flex Polishing Machine together with Lake Country CCS Pads and Menzerna polishes. Then i will seal the paint with ChemicalGuys Jetseal 109, followed by a wax with Wolfgang Fuzion. The new paint should have a nice shine by the time it is finished.
Thought i might photograph the different processes as it is done over the next couple of weeks and post the photos on this Thread if anybody is interested. I am not a detailing professional - just a weekend enthusiast.
This is the first Elantra that i have owned and really enjoying it so far.
Look forward to meeting you all via the keyboard and hope to post here regularly.
Rocket.
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Bigs |
14,957 |
19th February 2012 - 01:20 PM
Last post by: bigwil1 |
QUOTE (Mia_D @ May 10 2006, 11:22 PM)
Please read this andit should help you tremendously. from a previous thread by applies so aptly here.....
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OK...You have decided on a Product....Without technique you may be very disappointed. So....here is my only suggestion......Please study this article.....Use the PlastX with the same technique.....In lieu of the foam applicator pad....I would use high grade brand of 100% cotton towels....Not Cheapos! Roll a smaller towel up very tight....now roll the towel you intend to put the product on around the smaller "inside" towel.....You now have some density to your towel.....Put on the chemical and begin rubbing in small tight motions....I would rub against the grain of the scratches.....Rub linearly...up/down, left to right, right to left, also same motions on a diagonal....by doing this you assure full coverage to the scratches and the lens.
Using Scratch X by HandHere is the LINK i was looking for earlier! Please read this as well......Remove swirls by Hand
Do not give up.....Repeat the process.....When to add more chemical.....well....it will blend in after a while.....use your eyes and "feel" before stopping.....by using a bit of PASSION and your arms legs and shoulders....rub and you will be generating a surprising amount of heat from your cotton towel. Cotton has a bit more bit and will generate more heat by hand than a foam applicator.
Keep repeating until you are satisfied.....One or two passes may not make a dent....do not give up....actually as you take scratches off initially it may look worse due to a strange fact. As you take off the smaller scratches the larger deeper ones remain....you now have to repeat the process until satisfied.....
Also - go into this with realistic expectations....PICS would help so much in assisting you. however.....take your fingernail and run it across the scratches.....does it "fall" into any areas? these places may not see the removal as you may like as they are very deep.......you must be careful with deep scratches if you were using a rotary because it could burn the film layer right off the plastic if the scratch was to deep.
Good Luck....READ!!!! before you work up a sweat.....it will benefit your results.
so many times people ask "what's best product"....but in actuality the TECHNIQUE is so much more inportant than the chemical....add a good chemical with great technique and you can make some $$~~~~~
_____________________
Back....
Unless you have experience on a Rotary you may be creating much more damage than taking out your swirls. Also you must watch for high points due to these areas having less paint. Well actually they are weaker areas and the paint is more fragile here than on the flat surfaces of the hood. Most experienced detailers do not take their DA above 1500 unless there is a specific purpose. Judging by your question regarding 3000 rpm I gather you may not have any experience. You must be knowledgeable about paint, the correct pads, and chemicals to use......Please reconsider if you have not purchased already. If you have I suggest getting a hood from the salvage yard and Practice, Practice, Practice......It is not rocket science and you will get the feel.....but getting the feel on your vehicle with no experience would not be adviseable.......
you can burn through the paint within a second without knowing what you are doing. you can rid your car's surface of swirls by polishing and using excellent technique. This comes with experience.
I have hand detailed cars using the methods of Mike Phillips at Meguiar's. It works. He is a master detailer and remember to use enough product nad a bit of PASSION!
Old Skool out.......
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Paul, you had specified Wills but it's Mike that was looking for a rotary! Thanks for the info!
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Carbon08 |
89,138 |
17th October 2008 - 10:37 AM
Last post by: Bigs |
The first thing I will recommend is that you wash your vehicle well in a shady or covered area! Use the two bucket method. One bucket with your car wash solution, the other bucket with just plain clean water. Use a genuine sheepskin or wool wash mitt and try not to use a sponge! Sponges trap dirt at the surface where as the wool mitts will hold the dirt up and out of the way!
So...rinse your mitt in the plain water bucket and squeeze the excess water out, now dip into your wash solution and wash a section of your car. Now dip your dirty wash mitt into the plain water to rinse the debris and then back into your wash solution! You get the drift of this by now I'm sure.
You do not need to dry as yet. Perhaps remove most of the standing water on the flat surfaces, but that's it for now.
After you have washed you can clay your car. I would suggest one of the two following kits that can be bought most anywhere automotive cleaning supplies are sold;
Mothers California Gold Clay Bar System - Comes with a Bottle Of Instant Detailer, A Yellow Clay Bar and a small bottle of Cleaner Wax.
Meguiar's Clay Bar Kit - Comes with a Bottle Of Quick Detailer and a White Clay Bar.
Have a few soft clean 100% cotton terry towels or micro fiber towels ready as well for wiping up.
In both cases the Instant or Quick Detailer will act as your lubricant for the clay bar! Clay is a soft mailable substance that will effectively and safely remove contamination such as rail dust, Industrial fallout etc. from your paint, glass, plastics etc. when used in a safe and as directed manner as below.
Here we go...
Break your clay bar into two equal pieces. This way if you drop a piece of clay you have another to use! If you drop the clay..THROW IT AWAY! Do not use it.
Mold the clay in your hand to soften it and then mold it flat but not too flat between your palms. Spray a section of your hood (let's say a 1/4 of the hood) liberally with the Instant Detailer. LUBRICATION IS THE KEY! Use plenty of lube. Now pass the clay over the lubricated section using linear (back to forth) motion and LIGHT pressure to begin. Use a little more pressure as you understand a feel the action of the clay bar. You will feel and possibly hear the contamination being pulled from your paint up into the clay. It will feel rough at first, DO NOT PANIC and then it will smooth right out! When the feeling goes smooth and the clay bar passes over the section with ease, it's safe to assume that that area in now clean of debris. Look at the clay...filthy right?? Good..it's working. Wipe that area dry and thoroughly with a quality micro fiber towel or a 100% cotton soft terry towel.
It can be a little messy and runny but it wipes up very easily and will not stain your car or trim etc. If you do a nice job wiping up, it will save you the extra effort of having to re-wash the car or re-do the whole car with just the instant detailer and clean towel again!
Now run your hand over that section..it should be as smooth as glass and very shiny just by virtue of clean paint.
Now..turn the dirty side of the clay over to expose a cleaner side of clay. Don't worry, the dirt will turn in and be suspended high enough in the clay to let you work safely.
Spray another section of the hood and follow the same routine as above. Again..I cannot stress the importance of LOTS OF LUBE! If the clay feels like it is sticking to the paint, then you need more lubrication. After each area is complete, wipe it dry. You can do the same for your windows as well and even your trim.
I would suggest you do the whole car this time around! This way you have totally clean paint and a fresh "canvas". If you feel your clay is getting too dirty to use, then use the 2nd half that you broke off and set aside! My experience tells me that you should get by doing the whole car with 1/2 a bar, but use your good common sense and switch to a clean piece if you feel the need.
And YES..it might sound as though you are scratching your paint with the clay bar, but I say again..that with lots of lube and even pressure you will not be at risk.
Now...stand back and marvel at the results you just achieved with a simple piece of clay! You will probably not even feel the need to wax the car because the instant detailer will leave a great shine providing you did a nice job of wiping up after yourself. But you will wax...because I said so....lol
From this point on, you can follow up with the wax of your choice if you wish! Keep in mind that a clay bar will have removed any wax you had on your paint as well!
You do not need to clay every time you clean your car! I would think that once a year is fine.
Geez...have I forgotten anything??? I don't think so! If you have any questions ask away! I would be more than happy to help!
Have Fun
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Bigs |
45,477 |
16th April 2007 - 10:47 AM
Last post by: Bigs |
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Carbon08 |
41,741 |
14th March 2007 - 05:59 PM
Last post by: Bigs |
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15
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Bigs |
39,266 |
11th July 2006 - 01:14 PM
Last post by: Bigs |
I have a lot of paint chips on my hood and they are getting annoying. I'm sure some are wondering the best way to fix them. I wanted to start a thread with links on how to repair them easily.
This topic has been covered here also:
http://www.elantraclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=1119Richard (F1Guy) recommended a few products that would help such as Mother's Paint Repair Kit and Langka Paint repair kit. The Langka kit is used in the below link from Detail City.
Here is an example of a repair done by a guy at DetailCity.com
Product Tested @ DetailCity.comWhere can you buy this?I would first check with your local car part store. If not, it's available online!
Langka.comSuperior Car CarePremiumAutoCare.comI would recommend the Langka kit as the instructions are clear and to the point! They give good tips on how to use the product on the Langka website. But what you really need when using these kits is PATIENCE!
Also remember, the kits that are mentioned here are used when touch up is applied. If you have a minor scratch (surface scratch in clearcoat), this can be easily fixed using a coumpoud like Meguiars Scratch-X or Poorboy's SSR's. Better results when applying them with a ROB. (Random Orbital Buffer)
I will keep searching and will add more links to this page. If you have any to share, send me a PM and I will add them here!
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Bigs |
15,878 |
24th April 2006 - 11:14 AM
Last post by: Bigs |
Detailing Acronyms
303 – 303 Aerospace Protectant
7424 – Porter Cable Dual Action Polisher Model 7424
AA – Armor All
AIO – Klasse All-In-One
APC – All Purpose Cleaner (generic term)
BnB – Poorboy’s Bold N Bright Tire Dressing
CB – Clay Bar
CCD – California Car Duster
CWB – California Water Blade
DA - Dual Action (like the PC7424 is a DA polisher)
DACP – Meguiars Dual Action Cleaner/Polish
EO - Eagle One Car Care Products
EX - Poorboy's EX Sealant (Carnauba based)
EXP - Poorboy's EX Pure Sealant (synthetic)
GC - Meguiars Gold Class Wax
IG - Stoner Ivisible Glass
LC – Lake Country (pad manufacturer)
LS – Poorboy’s Leather Stuff
LSP – Last Step Product
MCAD - Mr Clean Auto Dry system
MF – Microfiber or Microfiber Towel
MGC - Meguiars Gold Class Wax (also GC)
NXT - Meguairs NXT Tech Wax
OB – Orbital Buffer
P21S – P21S Crnauba Wax
PB – Poorboy’s Product Line
PC – Porter Cable Polishers/Buffers
PwC – Poorboy’s Polish with Carnauba
PwS – Poorboy’s Polish with Sealant
QD – Quick Detailer
QD+ - Poorboy’s Quick Detailer Plus
QW+ - Poorboy's Quick Wax + (Used to be QD+)
RB – Rotary Buffer
ROB – Random Orbital Buffer
SG or S&G – Poorboy’s Spray & Gloss
SW or S&W – Poorboy’s Spray & Wipe
S100 – S100 Carnauba Wax
SG – Klasse Sealant Glaze
SS&S – Poorboy’s Super Slick & Suds Car Wash
SSR – Poorboy’s Super Swirl Removers
SSR1 - Poorboy’s Super Swirl Removers Light
SSR2 - Poorboy’s Super Swirl Removers Medium
SSR2.5 - Poorboy’s Super Swirl Removers Medium
SSR3 - Poorboy’s Super Swirl Removers H/D Compound
SW – Spray Wax
TR - Poorboy's Trim Restorer
TW – Turtle Wax
WG - Wolfgang Car Care Products
WOWO - Wipe On, Wipe Off
WM - Wash Mitt
WW - Waffle Weave Towel
Zaino - Zaino Car Care Products
Z7 - Zaino Car Wash
Send me a PM if you have one you want something added!
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elantragt |
34,966 |
11th April 2006 - 10:04 PM
Last post by: Goldenguy |
Let's post a list here of our detailing routines (products, techniques and frequency) as a reference for newbies and other members alike!
I'll start:
I try to wash my car about once every 10 days, if possible. I use Blue Coral Car Wash liquid I purchased at Walmart, nothing fancy but it seems to work. I spray the tires with Stoner's "More Shine, Less Time" every wash. I do my windows and all glass with Stoner's about once a month. The black trim get's a coat of lotion (either Meguiar's or Mother's mostly) once a month. The interior gets the 303 treatment about once every month or so. I try to regularly "shake out" the mats so dirt doesn't get ground in.... and vacuum monthly. I use Klasse or Pinnacle leather conditioner about 3 times a year.
As far as waxing goes, I use several products...Meguiars NXT, 3M Perfect-IT, P21S. I love the Poorboy's sealant. Basically I try to keep several coats of wax on my car at all times. This means waxing fairly often... no more than two months between coats.
I also clay on occasion (Mother's California system) but only 3 times in two and a half years so far.
The results have been very satisfying.... and it really isn't all that much work.
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Bigs |
33,274 |
18th January 2006 - 08:32 AM
Last post by: Bigs |
UPDATED info from Paul! Thanks Mang!
Glaze, Carnuba, Sealant
Body shops, Detailers and Enthusiasts could be another name for this post since the definition of these products tend to be used to mean different things. Especially in the body shop mode. Actually in terms of detailing, these three products are very different and are used to achieve not only a varied look but are much different in their function.
Glaze ~ is a oil based product such as 3M IHG and Meguiars #7. They merely fill mild scratches and swirls and add a tremendous amount of DEPTH! to the paint. They do eliminate the marks. Consider this product the"cosmetics" of paint. Administer your coat using a circular motion as you really want to "push" the product into those small ridges of existing scratches and swirls. After you glaze your car, it is like putting on a pair of 3D glasses when observing the final results~~DEPTH!, DEEP DEPTH! However, glazes tend to be rather volitile, in that they will simply evaporate quickly if not sealed. Many cars at shows are quickly given a glaze application before entry to get that last BLING! It could last hours or max a day without being sealed bycarnuubauba. Essentially no protection is given by the glaze. It's use is purely for vanity......There is no protection involved with the use of a glaze. If you wish to add DEPTH! use a glaze.
There is something unique about them as well......the term "skinning" comes to mind.
3M's IHG and Meguiars #7 are oil based glazes and will fill the scratches but not remove them. Glazes in general are a tricky product to use. They have a tendency to "skin" in the removal process. As explained to me by Mike Phillips of Meguiars, think of a bowl of pudding ~ you can take that top layer off, then later it will reappear. Glazes are like this as well. When taking off what you have laid down, take off one layer, another layer of haze will reappear, take that off, then gradually you have taken off the hazing glaze. try not to take all the layers off at once, it will only frustrate you more and possible create some added swirls or scratches sue to the force being administered to the paint, especially black paint.
***UPDATE*** There are new Glazes using an Acrylic Polymer Resin, manufactured by Chemical Guys and they are easy on / easy off. It is a liquid and the application is like a very creamy liquid wax. No hasslel product. It leaves the car looking like an oil based product without the time or effort. There is no "skinning" by product. As a result No HAZING with this product........It really is a beautiful thing.
Carnauba ~ A wax's primary responsibility is to add protection to your vehicle. That is whacarnauba's's function really is. Now there are various formula's some are seemingly more reflective(maybe a clearer form of carnauba(less yellow) and other's seemingly add depth and color to the vehicle. It is also used to seal your polishing and glaze, if used. Eventhough after a wax the car seems to shine, it is really the prep work which the carnauba accentuates that we really see. How long will a carnauba last? Depends on which one you use and even then it is very debatable. Some mention that they lost the "beading action" after four weeks. Well beading occurs only because of surface tension/friction and nothing more. It may or may not be an indicator of the durability of the carnauba. Not to cross lines but I will mention here, there are some synthetic formulated Sealants which are designed to sheet the water and not create any surface tension. So after the first rain do not think it isn't protecting. Carnauba's tend to give a very Warm, enriching glow to the automobile. A deeper, warm shine.
Sealants ~ Many types and varieties. Some very synthetic, others based with carnauba. The most important thing here is a sealant meant to give the longest protection of any LSP product. The wrap on synthetics, if you will, is that they tend to be somewhat cold in appearencee. Similar to a "plastic" being wrapped around the car. Now, many new products have come out using new technologies combining many chemical reaction and these sealants are looking dramatically warm and carnauba like with the added benefit of extended protection. Again as mentioned, some bead water, some do not....so don't be fooleded.....beading water is merely caused by surface friction.
Hopefully this will assist you in your search for the most desireable method. In searching some have found toping sealants with carnuba's to invite interesting possibilities. Again, any more than two to three layers (max) of any product seems to begin reaching a diminished returns on the final result. Two layers sometimes would be valuable purely from a coverage standpoint. Making sure all the areas are fully filled.
I will recommend a few popular combos, then it's for you to decide!
#1 - Klasse All-In-One with P21S
Klasse AIO is a fantastic synthetic product that does everything. Clean, Protects and Polishes. AIO brings out exceptional depth like I have never seen. P21S is carnaubaba wax that will bring out the shine like no other wax. (except Pinnacle but that's over $90 a jar!)
For absolutely fantastic results, I would add 1 coat of AIO (2 if surface is in really bad shape) and 2 of P21S. Keep in mind the P21S will not last long but the AIO is there to protect for 6 months. But P21S is the easier wax that you will ever apply and remove!
#2 - Klasse All-In-One with Poorboys EX Sealant with Carnauba
This is also a combo that is hard to beat. I would say it's very very close to the above selection. EX Sealant is a little harder to apply and remove. It's recommended to let EX Sealant sit for a good 30 minutes. Poorboy's products can also be applied in the sun (with reduced quality IMO). Again, I would add a few layers of each! Also, Poorboy's EX-P Sealant is also available but has no carnauba and gives the same result!
#3 - Klasse All-In-One with Klasse Sealant Glaze
This is a combo that is sure to protect your surface! The SG is harder to work with and have the option of applying and removing right away. The company recommends to let it set on the car for at least 30 minutes or even longer. This combo also give great results and will protect for at least 6 months. This combo is great for light colours!
#4 - Meguiars NXT
This is IMO the best one coat product available in retail stores. It's easy to use and gives great results! Brings out the depth and shine while giving great protection. I also recommend the paste wax over liquid. Personally, I would add a coat of AIO before adding this product!
Again, these are products I recommend. There are tons of great products out there to satisfy the detailer in you! Most products listed above are only available in specialty shops or online.
Proper paint preparationn is also required toachievee great results.
Sorry that was long!
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Bigs |
67,851 |
27th June 2017 - 06:10 AM
Last post by: Bigs |
I have to say, the pop from the products I used this time around I think came out better than my Santa Fe which I used EX-P.
It was in a really bad need of a good clay, brake dust, tar and road paint all over.
Anyways, the steps I did to get that wet shine! Took about 3.5 Hours
1. Wash with my new foam gun and separate buckets
2. Clay with a Ricardo yellow clay and clay lube (it was that bad)
3. Polish with Poorboy's Polish with Sealant (PwS), with PC and white polishing pad
4. Finished with Pookboy's QD+, to remove any left over polish dust or marks I left behind
5. Dressed wheels with Poorboy's Bold N Bright
I never even noticed the nice metallic flakes before until this. I really enjoyed the PwS!
Thanks for looking!
Marc
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Bigs |
18,539 |
21st May 2017 - 04:47 PM
Last post by: Bigs |
Had a 2004 EGT, then a Chevy Aveo and now a Santa Fe... Man it's so much bigger.
Took me 3 hours to wash, clay, polish with orange pad and SSR 2.5, then white polishing pad and SSR 1, then EX-P with a finishing pad. All buffed by hand. Trim restorer for the black moldings and I used some tire foam from Costco (good stuff). All Poorboy's except the tire foam.
This is basically my first detailing in at least 6 to 7 years.
Thanks for looking!
Marc
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Bigs |
75,850 |
24th February 2017 - 06:56 AM
Last post by: Bigs |
The kind people at Autogeek.net have agreed to offer our Club a 10% discount on most of their items available online. They are offering club members 10% off of all purchases except;*Coupon not valid on buffers, garage floor coverings, complete wash systems with dolly, and vacuums.
*Can not be used in conjunction with other discount offers. *Not applicable on previously placed orders.COUPON CODE:
ElantraClick the banner above to view their web site! Thanks to
Meghan@autogeek for setting this up for us!
Feel free to PM me if you have any questions or post them here.
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Frankenzstein |
12,533 |
22nd September 2016 - 02:39 PM
Last post by: Bobzilla |
Just wondering what you all use to get the salt out of your carpets? .. if you call them carpets these days .... is there is something other than a $150 steam cleaner that does just as good a job?
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CDearsVVV |
17,467 |
9th September 2016 - 07:16 PM
Last post by: Georgeandkira |
So I'm pretty sure the carpet and whatever matting they put underneath is done. It got wet, I used a dryvac, and there was no issue. There was a slight smell, it started to go away after leaving the windows down.
It happened about a month and a half ago, and the smell got stronger all of a sudden.
I am thinking of just replacing the interior (floor), how much do you guys think that would cost?
Any tips?
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Tex GT |
13,942 |
9th July 2016 - 07:23 PM
Last post by: rstnick |
I've had my 2016 Elantra GT for less than a month, and I think I've visited the car wash 100 times already (not really). Whenever I get a new car I don't want it to ever get dirty, so I take it the auto wash a bunch. As time goes on, my interest wanes, and the car stays dirty longer. Is this normal, or am I just suffering from New Car Love disease?
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Tex GT |
8,911 |
8th May 2016 - 01:20 AM
Last post by: a_v |
Every year, at this time of year, my area of Texas, gets an invasion of flying insects called Love Bugs. They fly so slowly that they tend to impact on the bodies and windshield of cars, and they come in swarms. Cars get totally coated in them, and as their name suggests, they mate in flight. Sounds like fun, huh?
They come in from Florida (thanks a lot!), and they're around for a couple of weeks. The only thing you can do is immediately wash your car when you get back home. They have tannic acid in their cruddy little bodies, and they will make small marks in the paint if they're allowed to sit.
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mad66 |
9,376 |
25th April 2016 - 02:56 AM
Last post by: mad66 |
Hi fellas I decided to give polishing my head lights ago they where in fairly bad condition and bought a Meguiars 2 step cleaning kit.
So rather than mask up panels decided to remove the head lights which was a simple with only three bolts and they slipped right out.
So I started with the cleaning compound but after 5 miniutes relized this wasn't going to work (lights way to dirty) so went and bought
some 800 and 200 grit wet and dry sand paper and started fresh with the 800 grit paper.
It took a bit of sanding and I think 600 grit to start would of been a bit easier but just a little more elbow grease got the job done.
then hit it with the 2000 grit and didn't take more than a couple of minuites to get nice and smooth, the finish on the lights after sanding
is opaque and doesn't look to flash but then came out the Mequiars kit and things came to life.
Because of the sanding I only used half of the product so can repeat the process another time down the track.
Once the sealer coat goes on the magic happens and the end result was fantastic.
Here is a couple of pics.
[attachment=5620:Left_untouched.jpg]
Before treatment
[attachment=5622:During_sanding.jpg]
During sanding
[attachment=5623:Before_and_After.jpg]
Before and after
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6
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Ike |
11,582 |
16th March 2016 - 12:04 PM
Last post by: 2000J25SP |
Forgive my noob-ness lol but the seats in our 2012 GLS seats look horrific and I'm hoping there's a relatively easy way I can do this myself. For my older Saturn Ion I removed the seats and washed the seat covers in the washing machine but I don't want to do that with this car.
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12
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slj0803 |
23,355 |
1st February 2016 - 09:04 PM
Last post by: rsr145 |
I am new to this forum, and I am new to Hyundais also!
I just purchased a 2016 Hyundai Elantra Limited phantom black about 10 days ago. To make this story short; my Fiance was trying to help scrape ice off my car today and she used the plastic ice scraper effectively on the glass...and then on the entire body of the car! Yes, I am thankful that I have someone who would go through all that effort to clear the car, but now I believe the entire body has small scratches all over it.
I'm worried because I just bought the car, I have never owned a brand new car, and I know nothing about fixing scratches (that appear to be just into the clear coat but possibly a few that went further).
I don't know all the warranty details and I just picked up new car insurance, so I'm not sure what is covered there, but I requested just about as basic coverage as I could get (to save money)!
It looks like there are a million tiny scratches on the body of my new Elantra and now I'm wondering what to do. Any help is hugely appreciated!!! What should I do?
- Take to my dealer and see if this 'accidental' scratching (she didn't mean to scratch it) can be buffed out or repaired?
- Reach out to insurance company to see if they would cover something like this? ...I'm emailing them after I'm done posting here.
- Go and purchase some detailing product from local Walmart/Lowes and try to repair myself?
I look forward to your help and responses!
Thank you,
Spencer J
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8
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Vinnie |
17,390 |
26th October 2015 - 11:48 PM
Last post by: rsr145 |
Came out awesome!!!
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5
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vanelantra |
12,346 |
16th June 2015 - 10:53 PM
Last post by: vanelantra |
8 months ago I purchased a new 2014 Desert Bronze Elantra. All was well until a few weeks ago, I noticed the paint on the passenger side doors didn't match. The front passenger door is definitely a shade darker. However, the front passenger door matches the front fender, and the rear passenger door matches the rear fender, so it's not as simple as a single door that's the wrong color. Basically, the front half of the passenger side is one shade, and the rear half of the passenger side is a lighter shade. I don't know how I missed seeing this earlier, but now that I've noticed it, it really bothers me. The front passenger door is ALWAYS darker no matter how bright/dark the light is, or what angle I'm viewing from, so it's not just an optical illusion.
Has anyone had a similar issue with a Desert Bronze Elantra, and if so, is there any way to address this ? I'll speak to my dealer about it, but I'm thinking my only recourse may be to live with it, or pay a body shop to repaint the passenger side and blend the 2 shades. But repainting seems rather drastic for a brand new car.
I've attached a photo. Thanks for any advice, comments you can provide.
[attachment=5458:elantra.JPG]
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4
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warmfuzzy |
9,995 |
18th May 2015 - 10:45 PM
Last post by: rsr145 |
I bought a Porter Cable DA and bottles of Meguire's M105 and M205 to give the car some more shine. I now have the shiniest orange peel in the city and I am not satisfied. From reading the posts about orange peel it seems that wet sanding is not recommended. Has anyone wet sanded an Elantra or has anyone used a paint thickness gauge on one. I'm curious about the actual thickness of the paint.
Fuzz
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9
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Domino305 |
11,377 |
18th May 2015 - 10:42 PM
Last post by: rsr145 |
My car door panel was accidentally scratched while moving some things over the weekend. It was caused by a metal bar that slid out of place.
If you look at the attached photo you'll see where the scratch is. It doesn't appear to be very deep but it is definitely noticeable. Is there any way to repair this or at least make it less noticeable?
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15
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popeye |
26,045 |
12th February 2015 - 10:39 PM
Last post by: Dlancer |
On the Elantra... (Daft Punk doesn't play often in our house lol)
Pulled out the Meguire's polishing kit and worked those babies over good! They really needed it and honestly they'll need it again in 6 months I'm sure because it's tough to remove the top layer, I'll need to try 800 grit to start next time. I also washed and vacuumed out the poor thing, man women are tough on cars!
No pics tho because my phone has been dead all week (going for replacement in a few hours - that's another thread).
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18
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03Ellie |
27,562 |
20th October 2014 - 02:05 AM
Last post by: a_v |
Elllie the Elantra's engine bay was pretty dirty - 210k miles...
Did a very quick cleaning today...Not very good but loads better than it was for sure:
sprayed mildly with garden hose
sprayed Purple Power full strength everywhere
let it sit for about 5 minutes,
agitated SOME parts with a brush,
sprayed off again with garden hose
went for a quick 20 min drive
dried off with a rag
sprayed poor boys' trim/interior cleaner and 1z plastic cleaner (didn't have anything else)
wiped off residue - that's it.
BEFORE and AFTERs:
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19
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The Gegenator |
26,572 |
12th August 2014 - 10:00 PM
Last post by: The Gegenator |
Hi all.. as always, sorry I'm not around much. Busy busy busy... against my better judgement, I decided to give my car a complete makeover. I'm starting with the interior. Almost everything is stripped out. I'm going to clean everything and add a little more sound deadening. I might paint the headliner to match the rear deck which I painted black.. but I think I'll leave the carpet gray.
I'm looking for ideas for the seats and A-pillar plastic. I've used paint in the past, and while it looks decent, one accident and it's scratched. The stiching on the driver's side seat is coming undone, so I'll need to sew that back together.
Also, while everything is apart... I might do some more with lighting since it'll be easy to wire. Any ideas? Here are some pictures... I'll try to post the progress..
~Tom
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6
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a_v |
10,104 |
31st July 2014 - 04:00 AM
Last post by: a_v |
Hi all
First weekend with the car back, so I got a bit of stuff done!
Bought some Armor All Custom Shield (same product as plastiDip, but works out cheaper in Australia) with the intention of fixing up my grill, so today I did just that:
[attachment=5039:1.jpg]
You can see how it's covered in little silver chips where the paint's been knocked off.
[attachment=5040:2.jpg]
I didn't quite get the masking tape peeled off around the edges perfectly, but it looked heaps better. If I were to do it again, I wouldn't have masked up the sides, and run a sharp knife between where the chrome meets the plastic, and just peeled it off.
[attachment=5041:3.jpg]
I decided to try it out on this door sill as well, to cover up where it had rubbed away.
[attachment=5042:4.jpg]
Think it did a good job of that. Wonder if I could use it to fix that rubber moulding?
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7
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sg1dhd |
9,808 |
16th July 2014 - 11:48 AM
Last post by: sg1dhd |
Hey guys. This is my first post here...
I have a 2012 Touring GLS. I also have three large dogs who occasionally ride in the car, which leaves hair everywhere. Dog hair is also brought in to the car from my families' shoes.
Anyhow, the carpet in my Elantra Touring holds on to the hair and just won't let go! No amount of vacuuming can get it all up.
Does anyone else have this issue? Are there any good solutions for the trunk area....like a nice matt or something?
Thanks!
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