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> Installing an aftermarket sound system in a 2013 Elantra GT , by Alex2013GT
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2013 GT Stereo Install

I installed a stereo in my 2013 GT. I took some pictures along the way and will put together a guide for anyone else that wants to undertake a similar project.

First disconnect the battery. If you don't know how to do that, then stop here and drive your car to the nearest stereo shop and have them install it for you.

Second, remove the silver trim from around either side of the headunit. Start by taking a small flathead screw driver to pull the bottom edge of the trim away (see pic below). Slide your fingers under the trim starting at the edge by the gear shift. Grab the trim firmly and pull up and out to pop the clips out. It takes a fair amount of force to wiggle each one out. Just take your time and you will be fine. Work your way up the silver trim until you have it completely removed. Once removed put the trim someplace safe where it won't get scratched.



Once you have both sides of the trim removed, next is to remove the headunit and HVAC panel. There are 4 screws on each side (2 for the radio and 2 for the HVAC). See the red circles in the pic below. Take out all 8 screws and then the headunit and HVAC panel will slide out. Keep these screws organized as they are different sizes for the radio and HVAC panel.



After the screws are out, the radio and HVAC panel will slide out together. Gently wiggle the radio free of the HVAC unit and let the HVAC panel hang down while you disconnect the wires in the back of the radio. For the navigation unit there were I believe 5 different wires that had to be disconnected from the back of the radio. Once they are all disconnected set your radio aside safely so it doesn't get scratched or damaged. Pics below show removal of radio and how it separates from the HVAC panel.





Now it is time to install the line out convertor. I picked one up from the stereo shop where I got the speakers, but they all basically work the same. They tap into your speaker wires to turn the speaker signal into an RCA output which is needed to plug into the amp. I decided to tap into the rear speakers so in case I don't want the sub on, I can just fade it to the front speakers. You could do either front or rear speakers. The following is assuming a basic understanding of electronics, but you will need to first strip the foam cover back that goes over the wires to give yourself enough room to work. After that, use the following diagram to identify the wires you want to tap into. Note there are two plugs. You want Connector A. When you are determining which wires to tap into, make sure you look at the shape of the plug in the diagram to ensure you are holding the plug the same way and getting the right wires. It wasn't too hard, but if you had the plug backwards or upside down, things could get messed up. You can solder the wires together, twist together and use electrical tape, or use various wire connectors. In any case you need to connect the + and - wires on the line output convertor to the right and left + and - wires in the harness. After splicing together the four wires you can plug your RCA cables into the convertor. There is plenty of room behind the headunit to tuck the convertor back there. Personally I put it on the right side of the radio and can access it with just the trim removed from the large vent opening. This is nice if I ever want to adjust the level to the RCA's, which right now i have turned down to about half way. (sorry didn't snap pics of the convertor)

2013 GT Wiring Diagram



Ok, now its time to run the RCA's back to the amp in the hatch. I removed the side trim that covers the side of the center console. In order to remove this you need to remove one screw (see red circle) and then the trim just slides out. I can't recall if I actually needed to remove this piece to get access behind the glove compartment or not. I just know I had it off.



Now its time to disconnect the glove compartment so you can get access behind it. Once you disconnect it, it just hangs straight down and you have plenty of room to work. On the right side you simply pop off the loop from the little clip sticking out the side of the glove compartment (1st pic). After this is done, there are two plastic circles (one on each side) that you simply twist and wiggle out (third pic). Once you have both of these out, the glove comparment will just hang down and give you full access behind it.







You can now feed the RCA's behind the glove compartment to the right side of the car. To run the cables, I popped off the plastic trim on the front passenger door off (1st pic). I also popped off the trim by the rear passenger door. Note for the rear trim, you need to pop the back seat and fold it down to remove the screws (2nd pic). There are no screws for the front trim. Be careful with the rear trim. It is a large piece of plastc and I actually cracked the driver side in one spot by being in too much of a rush. I was able to run the cables to the back by just removing these two pieces and just pushing them up from the bottom of the trim on the pillar in between the front and back door. I didn't even look into trying to remove that as there wasn't any issue pushing the wires up from the bottom. At this point the RCA's and now back under the rear seat. I folded the back of the rear seat down a little to push the cables back to the hatch area. I left any extra wires under the rear seat.





Now its time to run the power to the amp from the battery. There are a couple different ways to get the wire from the engine bay into the car. I decided to fish the wire through the front side fender, down next to the door, and in through an extra rubber grommet that was on the door. In order to get the wire into the car I pulled the grommet out and put a hole in the center to feed the power cable through. After this, I had to remove the panel behind the hood release. There was one screw on the hood release that needed to be removed and then the plastic panel came right off. (1st pic below). Behind this plastic panel was a rubber covering that was directly in line with the rubber grommet that i removed. I poked a hole in the cover and fed a wire hanger through this hole and out the hole where the rubber grommet was. I wrapped the wire hanger around the power cable and pulled it into the car. After pulling it snug, I put the rubber grommet back in place. I then fed the power cable through the car the same way I ran the RCA cables, just on the driver side instead of the passenger side.







For the amp remote turn on, I grabbed power from the auxiliary plug in the trunk area. To get to the plug there were two bolts to be removed (1st pic) and then the trim popped right off. To get to the bolts, just take a small flathead screwdriver to remove the plastic cover over the bolt. The wires going into the plug were black (ground) and orange (12v) so I spliced into the orange wire. I then replaced the trim and attached the amp ground wire behind the plastic trim to one of the bolts I was putting back in. So now we have the RCA's, power cable, remote turn on and ground all attached and in the hatch area.



Now its time to hook up all the wires to the amp, run speaker wires to connect the amp to the sub, reattach the battery and test everything out. After you have made sure that everything works and are happy with the settings, put the car back together, and sit back and enjoy the tunes.

Here are some install pics. The first pic is with the amp just sitting in the trunk. The second pic is showing the under storage compartment that is a perfect fit for the amp and the third is what it looks like with the amp "hidden" in the storage compartment. Note, I didn't get all the wires hidden yet as I am testing out whether the amp will overheat in this enclosed area. If it does, then I will figure out another place to put the amp, or get a computer fan as was recommended to keep the amp cool. In any case, I hope this helps some of you!







UPDATE:

Two slight updates to the install. First the connection to the battery. If you look closely at the pic I posted above, I originally had the power cable attached to the bolt that allowed you to remove the positive terminal from the battery. By doing this, you can't get that bolt tight enough (at least I couldn't) and so it was a little loose. I moved that and attached it to one of the other bolts on the battery. (there are a couple by the positive terminal)

The second thing is that I moved the ground wire for the amp. Where I first put it didn't ground it very well (the amp actually stopped working after about a week) so I moved it to a different screw. I also scraped the paint off the metal to allow for a better ground. Here is a pic of where I now have it grounded. You can also see where I tapped the remote turn on wire for the amp at (which I had forgotten to take a pic of during the original install).

One additional observation. The sub box is a perfect size and allows me access to both the left side of the underfloor storage as well as the right which is where I put the amp at. It is easy enough to remove quickly if I wanted to, but I like the fact that I can get to both compartments without as much as needing to slide the box left or right thumbsup.gif


Last update: Nov 18 2012, 07:44 PM by Alex2013GT    Created: Nov 7 2012, 09:44 AM by elantragt    Edits: 4    Views: 20,786
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